15 Shiplap Don'ts | What NOT to do When Installing Shiplap

Shiplap Ahoy! There are 15 essential things not to do when installing shiplap. Many are guilty of doing most of these. In fact I have been shocked to see so many YouTube shiplap videos guilty of committing these atrocities. I'll admit, some of these are my own opinion, but I think I could make a pretty good argument for each one of them. Ultimately when you do you project, if it turns out exactly how you want it then that makes it perfect....to you. But, in general these shiplap tips and tricks will impress all who look at it and put you in the category of a professional finish carpenter.

If you have any other shiplap ideas, feel free to leave a comment and let me know. If you disagree with any of my "Don'ts", let me know as well in the comment section. I welcome of love, hate, and anything in between.

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0:00 Intro
0:33 Don't keep your molded baseboard
0:55 Don't forget to mark your studs
1:05 Don't forget to level your first piece of shiplap
1:18 Don't end your boards in between studs
1:49 Don't start at the top
2:03 Don't cut your outlet holes too small
2:37 Don't use wood
3:02 Don't use MDF
3:28 Don't use narrow shiplap
3:57 Don't use constructions adhesive
4:18 Don't use short nails
4:35 Don't use the nail gun in the wrong direction
5:42 Don't leave edges of shiplap exposed
6:08 Don't waste time on 1/16 of an inch
6:32 Don't use faux shiplap
8:36 Conclusion

[DudeSawdust]

Some of these "Don'ts" are controversial....I know right?!?! I want to know what "Don't" you disliked the most? If you don't have one then I want to know what "Don't you liked the most or found most useful.

[shannond]

Don't #16 - Don't let the seam of each row of shiplap land on the same studs. Randomize the length of boards so your seams don't create a straight line. Keep it random like laying a floor.

[mikebaker]

I like to use the plastic box extensions for the outlets. It comes with the longer screw and keeps the combustibles away from the electrical, fire code in mind.

[JacquelynRivera]

Great tip: DON’T FORGET TO PRIME AND PAINT ANY SHIP LAP, TRIM, ETC., BEFORE HANGING IT! It is so much crisper and cleaner to paint these pieces first, install to the wall and go back with a nail filler and touch up the holes with paint!

Don’t always just go for wide ship lap - it depends on the application. If you’re doing a chair rail with a vertical wide ship lap 2/3 up the wall and want horizontal ship lap on the remaining 1/3 of the upper wall, use the thinner ship lap for the horizontal 1/3 upper half. Aesthetically it’s more pleasing. I’m a contractor and I install this for clients often. It depends on the size and space of your room or wall as well. Don’t just always go for wide ship lap. If your ship lap is on all walls, use caulk in the corners for a seamless look not trim, however, if it’s ONE wall, yes, use the trim to cap it off at both ends. Using faux ship lap is fine when going up 2/3 of the wall (use liquid nails, a brad nail and apply even pressure) capped off with a 3” sanitary chair rail and a 5 1/2” sanitary OR 5 1/4” colonial base moulding comes out perfect.

[adventurealley]

I bought raw rustic shiplap from reclaimed wood. So I didn’t have to worry about a perfect look. I did decide to place the edges only on the stud and to use trim because of this video. It was very helpful.

[timnoneya]

I'd say it's better to start at the top. That way you can come down to the bottom and any inconsistency in level will be hidden behind the new base board trim. Plus you can cut up a little bit to leave room if you might eventually redo the flooring.

[MAGAMAN]

#1 should be "Don't like up all your seams (like you did)" It should be installed like wood flooring flooring, tile or bricks with the seams staggered.

[jimboward]

Great video-BUT I totally disagree about the MDF vs Wood. Man, give me well milled wood every time. Thanks again:

[tonyjordan]

Good job fellas! My brother hit me up about a job he was working. He spoke on installing some ship lap, he’s never done it. I said, “ dude you gotta peep some videos on that, not b.s., but pro vids. I researched the situation with him, and POW! We happened upon you guys. Job well done gentlemen. A lot of trades still hide their secrets. I’ve been in the custom carpentry field since 2009. It’s a niche though, doorknobs, yes, the ever frustrating, zero tolerance door knob mind hump. The presentation you guys put forth was poetry in motion. Loved it, gave me a T boost. Thank you

[desertdan]

First rule of finish work is to start from the top and work your way down. Start with a level line at the ceiling first and work off of that be it commercial or Residential. Floors are very seldom level ask any cabinet, door or tile contractor. Crown and base are there for a purpose going all the way back to plaster work. When you install a door do you level off of the floor or the Top? If you have ever worked in a home that is pre 1940's vintage you guys are going to have a nightmare. I agree with many things you say but I was taught by tradesman from a family of tradesman and my Great Grandfather was a finish Carpenter who built items into homes and built or made the things you buy from Home Depot today. He built and fit custom woodwork into very extravagant homes and buildings. He abhorred putty and fill and made his own only to cover nail and screw holes out of the same wood and dust that he built the item out of. My Grandfather followed in his foot steps and I learned from them both. Don't start ship lap or anything like that from the bottom. End at the bottom and always leave gaps under the moldings and trims for expansion and contraction from moisture and temperature differences.

[jamesmichon]

Doing my basement walls, no door or windows to contend with, I'm starting at the top and getting a nice level, full board to start, everything else stays straight and my seams are tight. I can trim the bottom board for width or floor unevenness and then cover it up with some base molding and it looks fantastic. With an open, black painted ceiling, that is easier and more noticeable, than what's hidden behind the base board along the floor.

[jamesschrader]

I think they look better with staggered joints instead of all the same. All in all a helpful video.

[EigenDesigns]

Great video. Thanks for passing along these great shiplap tips. I have done some tongue and groove siding in the past and many of these tips apply to that siding as well. Keep the content coming!

[Dansharley]

I did shiplap and used 4x8 birch board. I cut the individual sizes using my table saw. Sanded each board and painted accordingly. Much cheaper, but takes more time.

[vancouverrealestate]

You forgot to mention if you want a pro look after painted, quickly sand every board before installing. This will ensure you knock down any deficiencies from the primed mdf boards

[volbster]

MDF? The perfect look? The reason people like myself select reclaim wood or rough cut wood is to get character. It depends on what look you are going for, modern contemporary using or a nice wood grain that has a rustic look with knots and defects, the distressed look. One thing is for sure I would never put that much MDF into my home. Once that wall starts getting dings they are going to stand out because it's such a perfectly flat wall. It would be impossible to sand MDF to restore. Repainting it would be a big problem. When working with MDF it makes a huge amount of dust. I would use MDF for base but not for a whole wall.

[chairfitcamp]

I freaking love you guys. You got my subscription. I appreciate your humor guys and seriousness at the same time.

[jamieofalltrades]

If you want wood shiplap to look good, just prep it properly by filling and/or sanding imperfections, then prime, and paint it all prior to installing it, its that simple. Some customers will not accept MDF especially in wet/damp areas like bathrooms or outdoor areas. Cool video, good tips 👍

[cheryl_the_horsechick]

thanks guys! so glad i saw your video before i put some up. i'm doing my awful ceilings. wish me luck

[jameslikesturtles]

Few things, if you’re using MDF you can get it in lengths of 22’ or more depending on the mill and it is definitely worth getting the right sized board for all your walls so that you can avoid joining boards where possible. Also, you can avoid having to go back and fill all those nail holes if you shoot into the tongue of the board before putting on the next one, of course for the first board you need to face nail (gets covered by base) then the rest of the way up just be careful not to leave nails sticking out and you’ll have no nail holes visible 👍