Missouri Wind and Solar Digital charge controller programming

Missouri Wind and Solar
332 Cobblestone Drive
Seymour, Mo. 65746
ph # 1-417-708-5359 or 1-417-935-2260
or 1-417-935-2281
sales associates

[danp]

I was researching wind charge controllers, For my sister here in Australia and we chose your The Missouri Wind 440 Amp/10, 000 Watt Hybrid Wind and Solar Charge in 12 volt version, was setting it up today, and the video is much better then the instructions, I get it now thanks for this video. the numbers where blinking. I really like your design, It's robust and well constructed. Nice work. Thanks.

[MissouriWindandSolar]

We are the original designer of our digital charge controller. A California company has made a counterfeit model that does not work.

[kcaa]

This gets a lot better after the 6-minute mark, but still could be more clear. I have one of these, and have the instructions. We get that it's complicated. Part of what's missing is the list of displays, and what each is for. Let me see if I have this right.
Left button is to scroll through settings, right button is to change settings.
P-1 is the time settings, which include
- the initial diversion time (default is 5s),
- extended diversion time (complicated - has to do with the controller sensing a need to divert a lot - extends the time power is diverting),
- display timeout, from 1 (d-1) to 9 (d-9) minutes or always on (d-0) - the controller is still working
P-2 is nothing (???)
P-3 is the voltage settings, including
- Highest voltage the controller will allow before diverting/disconnecting (must be higher than below)
- Low voltage the controller will drop things too after starting to divert/disconnect (must be lower than above)
P-4 is nothing (???)

From the operating mode (where you start if you've started with a dark display and then hit either button), using the left button is scrolling through the P-3 settings. Those values are:
- set high voltage - first the 10s digit, then the 1s digit, then the decimal
- then the low voltage - first the 10s digit, then the 1s digit, then the decimal
- then the divert delay time in tenths of a second
- then the mysterious ONL display, which if you change it to ONH and aren't planning to do some strange experiments, you'll destroy your batteries, possibly dangerously, so leave it at ONL.
- then back to operating mode.

From the operating mode, holding down the right button will put you in program (P) mode, and those options are:
- P-1 time settings
- P-2 nothing (???)
- P-3 voltage settings
- P-4 nothing (???)

From the operating mode, just quickly hitting the right button will change between timing display and voltage display. The timing display will be all zero unless the unit is diverting, in which case it will show the number of seconds left until it changes modes again.

[amarine]

This video would be great for those that wish to customize their battery voltage or if you get crazy and push a bunch of buttons and need to go back to factory settings.

[aai]

In these video's it seems like some of the descriptions are the first time he has used.

[aai]

How about a flow chart for us documentation types?

[GrumpyMountainMan]

Go to the 6:00 min mark first, then watch the whole video .

[andreblanchard]

I have a World Power Whisper 1000, I put it up in 98. Don't believe the whisper part of the name, those 2 blades shake the hell out of the tower when the wind suddenly changes direction.
A bit over year ago the "EZ-Wire" controller let out some smoke, not all of it because it still functions but I do not trust it. ;)
Looked around a bit for a new controller at the time but all I found were $1500 and up. Not going to pay that for a controller for a 20 year old turbine.

Tonight I happened to find this video, $77 is more in line.
At one point years ago I replaced the rectifiers in the EZ-Wire with a proper 3PH rectifier.
Thinking I can take that, the brake switch, circuit breakers, and I think it is 1200 watt dump load, add your controller and be back in business.

Looking at the current controller, it has 3 capacitors in a Y connection to the 3PH coming from the turbine, any idea if I need those?
Maybe the smoke come from the caps!!
That would explain why it still works, the diodes in the rectifier check out. And from experience with cheap inverters when mosfets fail (the EZ-Wire has a mosfet switch on the dump load) they short out and if there is enough current they blow up so as to save the fuse. The mosfets look fine.

Anyway just free thinking here, slamming that 1200 watt load on and off always seemed kind of harsh, back when I still had incandescent 12 volt light bulbs they would flicker a bit.
Wonder if I could take 2 of your controllers, setup 1 with say an 800 watt dump and the second one at a little lower voltage and a 400 watt load.

[kcaa]

So I went through that because my wind turbine came with a separate MPPT controller, that acts as the rectifier, charge controller, and brake. I totally don't trust it to really control things (though it isn't a big turbine), so what I really want is to have your divert controller keeping the batteries in a range where the MPPT controller has some battery capacity to work with. When I'm actively using power, hopefully there won't need to be any diversion to maintain some battery charge capacity.

However, I noticed when I put everything in, that the turbine controller was just braking the turbine at about 14V. So the turbine controller was doing all of the work (and would probably croak early), and the divert controller was never engaging. I think all I want is to set the divert controller to just under that 'protection' voltage, so it gets to that voltage, burns the voltage down to something reasonable (maybe 13.2), and lets the wind controller stay out of 'braked' mode unless we have high winds.

If that sounds reasonable, it seems like all I need to do is, from a timed-out display, hit the left button once to get the display up, then again to start setting the P-3 high voltage setting, scroll again to leave the tens digit at 1, use the right button to set the 1s digit at 3, use the left to scroll to the tenths digit and set that at either 8 or 9, then scroll to the lower voltage. There I want to scroll past the tens digit and the ones digit, and set the tenths digit to 2. Then I'll scroll again, to go to the divert delay (000) display, scroll again to get to the ONL display, and scroll again to be done.

Does that look right?

[LarrySummary]

Jeff needs to make a video!! I could not understand this video!! JEFF where are you?... This is a very important part and need to be set right.

[abreddy]

If we give two outputs I.e one is from solar and another is from wind....it will take at time both outputs??

[X-American]

My 200 amp won't stay on. I go through settings it kicks on for 30 sec then shuts off won't come on anymore unless I reset it

[kennycave_oldschool_blues]

I am very confused, the third set of numbers that are left empty, does that decide to dump a load, ?

[tonyortiz]

you can make a video at 48 v to be able to turn it on thanks

[michaelortiz]

If I need to change the controller from 13.5 can I change it to 14 that I'll get more charging to my battery is better please get back to me let me know Mike

[michaelortiz]

Is this the Missouri wind and solar video about the charge controller there is no telephone number but if you are Missouri wind and solar and I can look it up so I appreciate you get back to me let me know

[AnesioRocha-Houston-Texas]

The California man explained the same item faster and easier without complications

[DeeFromSA]

We can read - what is the different settings for? Explanation will help. Now it is just digits???? Luckily someone said start viewing after 6th minute - thanks

[bethpiltz]

I was instructed to watch this video from your sales department. Followed it but did not address my problem. I am getting a u-3 flashing with multiple battery levels and there is no wind. The selenoid is clicking over and over. This happens during the day when solar panels on a different controller are trying to charge batteries. At night the batteries could read 12.6 and the inverter shuts off. By morning the batteries will read 10 or sometimes as low as 7. Please tell me what is going on I did not receive any instructions or an operating manual.

[michaelortiz]

When you change your controller when I went to go set mine up I don't understand how you got that higher number the tight the 28.8 it doesn't display that on mine I can get mostly everything else in line of what you did on your video but I still have a problem trying to set it the right way with the dump load and winter by and disconnect and stuff like that maybe you can give me a phone number you can talk me through it I would appreciate the help my name is Mike thank you