Weathering Model Trains - Fading (without an airbrush) (Step 3)

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Now that the research is done, and the model is prepared, it’s time to break out the paints and start weathering model trains! This video covers an effective method of getting a realistic faded effect on your model without using an airbrush! Fourth in an ongoing series covering the basics of how to weather model trains, this will also eventually be one of several videos on model train fading.

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Products and Equipment Featured or Used in this Video:
The following are affiliate links to Amazon. I receive a small commission if purchases are made through these:

Basic Oil Brush set, including small round brushes and flat brushes:

Tamiya Paints & Clears:

Oil Paints:
Winsor Newton

Abteilung 502

(Dual-action Gravity Feed airbrush, compressor, braided 6ft hose, and a getting started DVD)
This is an updated version of the combo set that I started with. The advantage of this newer version is that if you wanted to swap out needle sizes, it can be done with upgrade kits, and it comes with different sizes of paint cups. It comes with a 0.3mm needle as standard. This also comes with the same compressor that you saw in the video. I’ve been very happy with my setup. It has done everything I’ve asked it to. Fittings on this airbrush and hose are ⅛” which are compatible with Iwata hoses.

Equipment & Software:

Adobe Creative Cloud Suite:
Photoshop CC 2018, Premiere Pro CC 2018, Audition CC 2018, After Effects CC 2018.

Credits:
Music: "Engine No. 9" by Les Hooper
© 1981 Birch Island Music Press, Sole Selling Agent: C.L. Barnhouse Co., Oskaloosa, IA
Used with Permission
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Have you ever used oil paints for your models either for painting or weathering? What do you use them for?

JCsRiptrack
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Working on weathering, fading, and aging a short line GP30 used by Carolina Coastal Railroad (CLNA). These videos are so helpful! Coming up with all kinds of ideas to make it look like the actual faded, weathered, used locomotive. It's original dark blue has faded in the Southern sunny heat and rusted. Adding not only rust, but some grey to simulate the bluish bare metal that has been exposed around the rusted areas has made it look very much like the prototype. Thank you so much!!!

jimmathis
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You have some of the best edited model train videos on youtube. Very nice. Thank you for sharing.

Ax
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Hey JC, I know you did this a year ago, but I swear it feels like last week you and I were talking about this very thing> I don't know why this just popped up on my feed. Strange because I was discussing this with someone over on Tips & Tricks FB group. I feel this process, whether airbrushed or dot brushed is so important to the base of our weathering!

theMudFather
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Thanks so much for creating this tutorial video. * subscribed *

What_If_We_Tried
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In terms of core color I choose to use Soft mixing white over Titanium. Titanium tends to have more of a bluish tint to it as opposed to Soft Mixing White.

sohchx
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Nice video, John. I typically fade with an airbrushed wash of white or light gray. I've seen this process before but never tried it. I may have to try it out.

RonsTrainsNThings
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Thank you for this tutorial. Greeting from Belgium :)

Marienthal
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Great video JC. I know video is a few years old so hope you are still looking at comments. I'm going to weather my new fleet of BNSF Autoflood III Coal Hoppers that have an aluminum unpainted prototype. What you your thoughts on fading etc. I'll probably also want your thoughts on other weathering you'd recommend as aluminum doesn't have the typical weathering properties. Love your videos and products you recommend.

rickmai
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If you use a piece of cardboard box as a pallet the card wicks the linseed carrier away helping the oils dry quicker.

danspalding
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I model in N scale and use a variety of techniques, depending on what I am looking for. I use Bragdon powders, washes (both acrylic and oil) and oil. Each method has its' advantages and no one product is universal.

martyyoung
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very cool technique, I never seen that one before

JoeG-firehousewhiskey
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doing some nice work....In video production :)

IMRROcom
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John, What colors would you recommend for fading a white model? Im thinking of using white, burnt umber, raw sienna, and a dark grey / black.

JamesFreed
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The more I use oils in my projects (rust streaks, grime build up, and fading) the more I like them, but it does take a lot longer to finish a project.

tp
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Great tutorial! Would this work with acrylic paints as well? Or does it just work with oils?

westtexasrailfan
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What is the clear coat that you use in this video? Spray can or airbrush?

chrisp.bacon_exe
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John, how critical is starting with a satin finish (vs. a gloss finish) for the dot fade technique? I am anxious to give this a try but do not have any flat to mix with my future (it is on order now...). Just wanted to know if the satin finish will make that much difference than using a gloss.

TheSwitchList
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In one of your videos you mentioned there was a product by testors that you could use in place of the future polish as the beginning point. (if you don't have an airbrush), what was it?

keonisan
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Actually you don’t need any varnish before oils. Just search “Oil paint rendering by Michael Rinaldi” on Youtube

rossomachin