How To Replace a Hot Water Heater Drain Valve

Check out how easy it is to replace a water heater drain valve. Is your water heater drain valve leaking or clogged up? Do you have a plastic drain valve? Do you want to replace it with a high quality ball valve? It is easy to change your water heater drain! This video covers detailed instructions on exactly how to replace your water heater drain valve with a reliable valve that won't clog or leak.

Here are links to the parts I used to build my valve in the video:

Don't want to construct your own drain valve out of parts from the local plumbing supply? Here's one I found that should fit most water heaters. Note that these links do not cost you anything extra, but they will send a few pennies to help support this channel.

#WaterHeaterLeak #WaterHeaterFix #ReplaceDrainValve

You can help me with future projects!

AmplifyDIY is a channel dedicated to do-it-yourself projects with in-depth tutorials on a wide range of subjects.

New videos are published frequently. Want to make sure you don't miss any? Subscribe now!

Check out the full channel here:

Follow in real-time on Instagram!

[AmplifyDIY]

Teflon Tape vs. Joint Compound vs. BOTH? Discuss....

[antaholics]

The part where you started showering to not waste the hot water 🤣🤣🤣 totally made my day. Thank you!

[jeffbarkley]

Always tape and dope is what I was taught, only suggestion I would have for you is when using a pipe wrench is to have it adjusted so that it makes contact on 3 sides of the wrench especially when you have to get it super tight, this prevents collapsing or egg shaping the pipe. Thank you and keep up the good work

[kirnkorner]

Just wanted to say a big thank you! My relief valve started leaking last week, so what what was going to be an easy relief valve replacement turned into a full overhaul of my water heater. Due to the sediment build up and the ridiculously small drain valve on the water heater it took forever to drain. I ended up replacing the drain valve as well. The flush process went so much faster after replacing that valve with a 3/4" ball valve, and so much more sediment came out. I am actually looking forward to draining and flushing next year :)

[Kronikax]

Great video!! I think putting that cap/plug on at the end is good for the reasons you stated, but also an extra one: safety! While the original valve would be very difficult to accidentally open (and virtually impossible for a very young child/toddler), the ball valve handle is easier to open accidentally (let's say it catches on a piece of clothing or something), and very very easy for a child to open. Depending on the setting of your water heater, it could be very dangerous if a curious toddler got ahold of the handle. However, by putting the cap on (and tightening it well, like you did), you've virtually eliminated that risk. If someone wanted to go the extra mile, they could even get a ball valve that can be locked. Anyway, just pointing out a nice extra benefit of what you did - nice work!

[brendanhughes]

To be honest, I may never attempt this project, but I wanted to compliment you on the quality of this video. Well thought out, narrated and edited. Good audio too. Thanks.

[sovifamily]

Very creative DIY solution for the pain I was facing for years. My Kenmore water heater came with a small plastic valve and it was getting clogged every time I was trying to drain my water heater. Following these instructions, I was able to replace it yesterday. What I liked most about the video is the way every details are meticulously covered.

[porfymartinez]

Installing a new water heater this weekend. I will be doing this strait out of the box.

[jesusl]

Great idea and great video! If I may make a suggestion though, the 3 inch nipple may be too short (9:02), in other words a 3 1/2 or 4 inch nipple would work better at least in your case. You see, when you need to replace the valve again at whatever time in the future, when you loosen the set up the nipple may not turn together with the valve (most likely what will actually happen) and therefore there won't be much to grab on to it to remove it, at least not without damaging the thread and making it useless (15:02). Just my 2 cents. Good day.

[shawnfjacobson]

Very helpful video, thank you. I had a plastic valve that was leaking and decided to install a brass valve like this video describes. Everything went well, except the brass valve and nipple was REALLY HOT. This is obvious if you think about it for more than one second, but I guess I hadn't thought about it that long. (Since I was going from plastic to metal this was a concern for me. It might not be a big deal for someone replacing a metal valve.) I would recommend insulating the drain line with some foam or pipe wrap so you don't have someone bump into it or grab hold of it and get a little surprise. Especially with these 3" and 4" nipples that are being discussed.

[krv]

The drain valve on my water heater has been leaking almost since the day the plumber installed it. It never occurred to me I could replace it with something better. Thanks!

[richardchandler]

I really appreciate the clarity of each step you explained and the close-up and clear photos of all the details. Great teaching talent here. Keep up the good work.

[unclematt]

Great video. An idea to consider: it's a great idea to take a little wrench and remove the blue handle from the drain when you're done. Put it and the nut in a baggie and put them on top of the water heater. Why? Because when you or your spouse is working and carrying stuff around, an errant step could easily hit that blue handle and open it all the way or just a little bit. If it's just a little bit, you're going to have a slow leak that might take some time to notice. When you want to drain the tank, you just put the handle and nut back on and drain accordingly and then remove again. Also stops curious little hands from opening the drain.

[ryanv]

If you're ever trying to seal fittings for high pressure water sources (~100-120psi), which like me you might get from your city's water supply, you will absolutely want to use both teflon tape and and pipe dope. I learned this the hard way after hours of sweat and labor. With just teflon tape, no matter how much I used or how tight the fitting was, after a minute or two, I'd always notice a small drip forming. Then with just pipe dope, that kind of pressure will actually force some of the dope out through the threads before it can harden and cure. With both however, it has been 100% dry and have I been able to sleep easy.

[RainbowDashie]

i just built this for my water heater and man does it work! i was able to pulse the water on and off to stir the tank and i got like 20 buckets of dirty chunky water even some of the large chunks came out that larger ball valve! thanks for saving me a ton of time and prolonging the life of my already 15 year old water heater! still lots to do! but you have helped a TON.

[chur]

Thank you so much for this video I replaced my drain valve today and will be thankful for future draining of the tank. It just took forever for the tank to drain.

[greenbanana]

thank you very much for this excellent video. I built this drain valve assembly with the plumbing parts you suggested to replace my plastic drain valve in the electric water heater. never flushed the tank before and there was about 1 inch of debris at the bottom. some corroded bits of the failed anode rod and sand like debris. the big chunks could not pass through the restrictive plastic drain valve. I initially used only teflon tape for the pipe nipple to valve connection and there was a very very small leak even after snugging down the connection a few times. I then removed the valve from the pipe and used teflon AND pipe sealant and reconnected. now there is no leak from this connection after turning on the cold water valve. now I am a firm believer of teflon and pipe sealant for all tapered NPT connections. I also replaced the anode and electric heating elements upper and lower. my next upgrade is replacing the TPR valve at the top of the tank. I'm telling all my friends and family about water heater maintenance to prevent catastrophic tank failure.

[vernbauerle]

This video is by far better than several others I've seen, which seem strategically bereft of specifics. Example, one showed the larger valve assembly only after the 4 necessary parts were already purchased, taped and or doped, and screwed in to make one unit. Were they possibly setting things up to show they were far more professional and capable, and so, save yourself the D.I.Y. fail embarrassment before the family panel of judges? Just pay the expert. OR find another video, of more honest and superior quality. DIY with the kindness of details and encouragement. THANK YOU for the Amplify more than Ample D.I.Y. tutoring. SUCCESS AND ADMORATION BY the JUDGES. <><

[proddarunner]

I've seen a couple videos on this. I checked my water heater and it didn't have a place as the other person's video for a backup wrench. I wasn't about to try loosening the valve without a backup until I knew you could remove the valve without a backup wrench. Now I know it can be done without loosening the female end in the tank.
Thanks

[davidalan]

TIP: Although not too critical in this drain application, you should always start Teflon tape with two threads showing at end of male thread. When threading in pipe, any overhang will chop off and Teflon tape remnants will be in system potentially causing problems hanging up in small orifices, seats, etc.