5 Dumb Mistakes I Made On My BUILD

This is the next video in my series on the Real Remodel that's now the Real ReBuild! I made a few dumb mistakes that you can learn from on this project. It's embarrassing but it happens. Learn from my errors and don't make these same mistakes on your next BUILD.

Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Rockwool & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds. We would highly encourage you to check out their websites for more info.

[alexs-zqni]

Admitting your mistakes is one of the reasons why I respect and value your opinion.

[scomi]

Nice "man up" job, admitting your mistakes. It would have been really easy to bury most of those mistakes and only the keenest of viewers would have noticed. I'm very impressed with the lengths you go to. You really want to teach others to make them better builders.

[arobinson]

The guy that never made a mistake, never made anything

[johntolan]

Love when you post videos of your mistakes. It's great to know that even a builder with your experience still has a mistake from time to time. That's part of building and remodeling...identifying mistakes early on and hashing out a plan to correct them. Builders have to be great problem-solvers above nearly anything else. We've all made our fair share of mistakes, but thank you for making videos of yours so that we can all learn from it and hopefully avoid similar issues on our jobs.

Great job on your house so far! It's looking great and I've enjoyed following your video series as you build it and explain the build science behind your plans.

[timfisher]

Buy in. Getting the entire crew. every guy... even the guys with the broom, to really care, to be emotionally and intellectually involved and care about every detail- is the key.
I have no idea how to accomplish it but in my opinion that would be the key!

[chadcooper]

re: Header Heights -
No worries Matt. I would leave them as they are.

The residences I design are typically 9’-0”, and often 10’-0”, at the 1st floor. So, it’s not too uncommon to have 18”+ of wall above headers (unless I’m spec’ing tall transoms).

Here’s my suggestion...
When you trim the interior, spec generously-sized flat trim boards, such as:
1x8 baseboard*
1x4 side casing
1x6 head casing
1x6/8 trim board at location of crown molding... to replace crown molding or use in conjunction with a crown (or cove) molding, which is then set against the face of trim board.
- For ex, a cove molding scaled to 2/3 or 1/3 the height of trim board.

* 1x8+ baseboards also allow for location of outlets within them... a clean look.

These trim boards give purpose to the amount of wall space above headers. And, they add character.
You can choose to keep things simple, for a more contemporary look.
- For ex, I’ll spec a 1x8 baseboard, and only call for a chamfer along the top outside corner to mitigate dust collection.
- I’ve even used a flat piece of trim in place of crown or cove molding... set at angle to the face of the 1x6/8 trim board. Just chamfer the lower inside corner to butt against the trim board, and then decide how you want the top of this trim piece to meet the ceiling.


I really enjoy your posts. They help me keep pace with new products... especially insulation, and applications.

[jimwampler]

I have 9 foot ceilings and a 5 panel slider at 6'8. It actually looks perfectly balanced with the room. I wouldn't incur the cost or headache of changing it. Plus, you'll be the only one who will worry about it. Thanks for the great video.

[pbkelly]

I think keeping the 6'8" header is important because it aligns with the height of the other windows. If you raise it, the door will stick out and look like a mistake imho. I really appreciate your willingness to share these mistakes - that's where learning happens!

[timkurtenbach]

I have only seen 3 of your videos before. I think you pointing out what others do wrong and then show how you make mistakes as well is quite classy. I like how you ask for ideas and comments. We all learn everyday. You gained a new subscriber. Good luck on your builds Matt

[DanielRichards]

the Framer we used to use before he had a stroke once told me while I was on a jobsite he always puts his window headers as high as possible (basically directly under the top plate) then frames down to the window opening height, so should some one want to install taller windows/doors down the road there is no reframing required.

[jeffmathers]

What a relief to see a builder own his mistakes and willing to share them to help others. That's how we all get better. That's definitely not my experience in the field so this is a real treat. Thanks Matt, you're a real stand-up guy! 👍

[mikefink]

Keep the 6’ 8” headers. Perhaps some indirect lighting strips above the windows, sending light upward and bouncing light off the ceiling will add some unique and pleasant lighting.

[johnraynor]

78yr old countyboy. Not a builder, but working to restore 2 story homestead house in Idaho. Has no foundation, no insulation, needs wiring updated and plumbing. Bumping out bank side wall for ground floor bed and bath with overhead garage from upper bench. Love your honest pointing out of oversight issues. Learn so much from your website

[texasarchitect]

Stick with 6'-8" you can do an architectural header to give the illusion of a taller window. I've got a production home with 10' ceilings and 6'-8" headers. It's okay.

[ryanthomastew]

Matt I love these videos about mistakes. It's truly honorable to share your mistakes. Your corrections are super helpful and so are the comments from all the folks here! I think you are raising the building standards across the country and I hope more builders look to you and the Build Show network of builders/architects to learn best practices. Truly love this channel and I'm not even a builder!

[BabelGk]

dude as a guy who does mostly interior stuff, this is fascinating! The stuff you're doing is crazy and I love ya for it. No suggestions cause I have no clue about this stuff but keep it going. Shout outs from Houston!

[crumpred]

Matt,  
I had an 8ft double door that I reduced to 6'8" plus a transom. The original door was blasted by direct sunlight in a non-overhang area of the house on the back patio which saw a lot of traffic and wore out fast. 
With taller ceilings make sure that you can move taller/wider furniture, countertops and Christmas trees through them easily.

[ShawwwHa]

In my old job we had a saying "if you never make mistakes you're not working."

[leestevens]

Edge loss at the slab is significant. Why do you not run the exterior foam insulation down over the slab, to some minimum distance below grade? It is pretty easy to do a cladding change somewhere near grade, and use factory finish metal to cover the foam that covers the slab edge, down to below grade. We have done this for years, on full basements. Then you have the choice of using or not using the thermal mass of the slab for interior environmental control. Strikes me as odd to do the "Perfect Wall" at the wall/ roof interface, and completely stop the "Perfect Envelope" at the top of an above-grade slab. I would also be thinking along the lines of a sealant bead at the wood sill/ concrete interface, and then use a membrane material over the joint, to insure a permanent seal (better able to accommodate shrinkage/ movement in the different materials being joined).

[IndyPhil]

Matt, could you open up the window openings and add transom windows to the tops? Maybe the same over the large slider as well? 🤷‍♂️