Consistent Screw Lines and Gap Widths

On decks with exposed fasteners, getting the screws in line really makes a difference in how professional the end result looks.
Just as important is the space between the deck boards. If these lines are not consistent, they will call attention to themselves—and not in a good way.
Straight lines of stainless steel screws begins on this job with a multi purpose jig.
It establishes equal distance between screws and it also establishes consistent spacing for scarf joints.
A chunk of LVL is the same width as the deck board and about eight inches long.
A fence allows it to ride along a joist edge. On another section of deck, the framing is different, and these auxiliary legs from the side are screwed into the front to butt the side of floor joists.
The Outermost deck board sets the pattern and layout for this three-sided deck, so Ben establishes screw placement every 16 inches on center over the sleepers.
Marking joist centers every sixteen inches along the deck board and
Aligning the reference point with the mark puts the screw right where you want it without any head-scratching.

Along the side section of deck, these fold-down tabs ride along the edge of the I-joist placing the fasteners in the center.
The second set of nail holes is for sections with double joists. Because they was slight variability in spacing and material thickness, the holes are marked in a two-step process.
So that’s Ben’s little red spacer. He gets them from FastCap. They are stackable, magnetic, and nifty.
These red ones give a ⅜ inch gap between the boards.

You may have noticed that this decking is 2x6. That’s because of the wide spacing of the cantilevered joists.
Around the corner, where they framed over a concrete roof, the framing is tighter and the decking is 5/4x6.
The two types of decking varied in width, so Ben enlarged the gaps to 7/16 over here. This way, the boards and the gaps are centered.
At first they tried cutting countersinks for the screws, but they got less tearout from the western red cedar by just driving the screws straight into the lumber, so that’s what they did.
These are home made shims, but he was able to find some solar powered shims on Amazon.
Regardless of what kind of shim you use. Stick it in the gap, push the deck board against it, and drive the screw.
If the board needs more than just the encouragement of your ankle, use a clamp.
If you don’t have a long enough clamp, break out the old beater wedge.

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[chrisgraham]

A time consuming process if your paying a contractor by the hour to install your deck. True the boards and install only one screw at each joist until the complete deck surface, or a large portion of the deck is covered. It's easy to eyeball and keep the line straight. Then snap a chalk line across the boards in line with the joists. Now, return to drive all the remaining screws. A fast and simple way to keep those screw heads in line like soldiers without wasting time and no jigs required. Sink the screw heads flush with deck board surface, never below the surface or you will encourage rot.

[elicas]

Thanks for the video and the background music is fantastic!

[Fishingtuts]

Wouldn't it be easier to use a depth gauge attatchment for your screws?

[helimax]

A kid could break a toe off in one of those gaps, haha. Im doing a hardwood decking now - first time. Going with 5mm gaps - was planning 6 or 7mm but anything more than 5mm just looks terrible. Also my wife decided seeing som many scews looked cheap - so now Im counter sinking them deeper and plugging - its a ton of extra work but the finish looks so much better

[HBSuccess]

Ask ladies with high heeled shoes how well 3/8" and wider deck board spacing works for them at the next cocktail party on the deck.

[stevenorander]

A down spout running all the way across the deck at the 19 second mark looks real professional! LOL

[ReverendHogwash]

Honey smokes those are some huge gaps.

[oliverwilliamsimpson]

Don't you find it annoying when the deck boards aren't all machined exactly the same width.

[johnhare]

Yeah, no thanks. I never run screws in a straight line on a joist. I always stagger them. In a straight line you run the risk of joist felet. Once it starts thaw and freeze compounds it. I've had to replace joist because of this. Offsetting the screws on each deck board is still an asymmetrical look I can live with. Form follows function.

[brianscott]

If my contractor gaped boards I’d fire him