Mercedes KE-Jetronic - Potentiometer calibration and replacement

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Learn how to replace and calibrate your potentiometer
#fixyourmercedes##potentiometerreplacement##mercedeskejetronic#

Timecodes

0:00 Intro
0:01 - 0:23 About the video
0:24 - 1:10 How it's done
1:11 - 1:30 How a scratched potentiometer looks like
1:31 - 2:11 Putting the new one on
2:12 - 3:10 A little trick
3:11 - 3:36 Important to know
3:37 - 3:50 DON'T DO THIS!!!
3:51 - 4:54 THE MUST!!!
4:55 - 6:25 Fine tuning the voltage
6:26 - 6:46 Like, share, subscribe, comment

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What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierlich" meaning continuos, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(electronic) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mAmp(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator,a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing"
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Congratulation for your first 1000 subscribers! Do you have the needed hours for the monetization?

johnnybravo
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Thanks, really enjoy your videos, very good for learning, how do you know if your potentiometer is bad, or starting to go bad?,

livintoday
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Hi mate. Thanks for your great videos. I was wondering if you can give me some ideas. I have 1982 280SE. It work fine on idle but when you put into the gear rev goes down and engine stalls then car stops. What would be the potential reason for it ?
Thanks a lot

roooomaa
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In another Video. The technician said to remove the ECU plug and put the car in emergency mode before doing this? any idea why?

charlestimmis
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Great video once again! Just keep going like that!

johnnybravo
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Yeah. Your video timing is perfect. Everything is understandable. The TPS number I have is "3 437 224 024" but I couldn't find the same. Provide a compatible model number. M102.963 200E non-catalytic model

rFMusic
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Hey I like your videos about the KE. I have a question about the symptoms of a bad potentiometer. My 190e 2.0 has a bad cold start and when it gets fired up it keeps dying or hesitating if I try pressing the gas pedal (between 1000-2000 rpms). I have no air leaks, changed my fuel pump, 4 pin coolant sensor, I adjusted my mixture using a CO gauge. Also my acceleration at the high rpm range is not good.

andrewshafik
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My 260e has a surging idle after start up it goes to 1700rmp then drops to 300rmp and does this in cycles. Also sudden acceleration and brake when slow speed in drive.. Just started doing this suddenly and now it won't go away

marcusfinanger
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what are the symptoms of not calibrated potentiometer? i changed the intake air temp sensor and now the car runs 1300-1500rpm and has hesitation on whole rpm range? and the potentiometer showed 1.08V and 1.3V took the measurement twice, difference due to engine at different temperature probably. the potentiometer was changed and tuned with the faulty temp sensor so can it now be out of tune?

Heve
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Hey again, thanks for this video. My current LMM is reading out the following measurements. Valve closed pin 1 en 2 2, 5k ohm and pin 2 en 3 7k ohm. Valve fully opened 3, 2k ohm. So I guess my pot meter is broken. If I replace is and place it at the exact same position, will this still work or do I need to calibrate the replacement?

michelgroen
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dude thanks for recognizing your awkwardness and embracing it lbro. You truly do offer actual learning and teachings here.

Mitutumuch
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Greetings!
I ordered a new bosch pot. From an online site. The pot. Very expensive, and picture shows pot. As green/orange, but, when my pot arrived, it is black! Even though it came in a bosch box.
If, it is black does it mean it might be a chinese brand?
Also, it came with a rubber gasket...I noticed your replacement did not have a rubber gasket...how important is this rubber gasket?
How to tell when a pot. Is oem, or oe? And not some imitation in a bosch box?

Please, advice-comment.
Thank you, sir!!

oceanfront
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Can I ask, what is the relevance of the voltage on pin 2? My car runs well but is at 1.2v on pin 2 at idle? What does lowering it to 0.7v affect?

robertrichardson
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Que bueno sería en español para entenderlo mejor saludos

carlosramirez-vtvc
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Hi! Thanks you for your great vídeos. My 190E 1.8 accelerates with bumps and hesitations until it gets warm. After it gets to 80-90°C it runs much better and smooth. It starts easily when cold. After gets warm the start its harder but drives better. With full throtle it goes ok (cold ir warm). What could bem the problem? Thanks you very much.

nunoalmeida
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may be a stupid question because you showed how to easily change the Potentiometer but have you ever seen a situation where the whole assembly, that you are holding in your hand, needs to be changed just because of this little 3 pin plug?
does this potentiometer cause hard start issue 30+ minutes after when the engine is still hot (provided that other components are ok) ?

Ozkan_Ozturk
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Hello! I have some problems with my w124 230e 1990. The idle is not stable. Otherwise the car when is running is ok. But when I have to stop, some times the idle is not stable is fluctuatin between 800 rpm and 1200 rpm, the engine is shaking. Also when I press the cluch pedal the idle is not stable. Sime times when I start the car, after starting the car turn off. Can you give me sime advice what to check? I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, engin oil, oil filter, plugs, plugs coil, cover of coil, gnertator of coil, ovp sensor, and potentiometer sensor.

bogdan-gabrielbiciusca
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How to remove without a screw? One doesn't have screw..thanks.

jojbernard
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Hi mister.
I don't know if you can help me.
My w124 has a problem with the radio and hazzard. When I open the door start working again( the two door switch, the second one is the one when you released start working the radio) I don't know where to start... Because the other door (passenger ) does the same.

Pellogt
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At 1:39 we can see the two metal wipers inside the air flow metering unit that touch the potentiometer. What can I do if one of these wipers is broken off?

lebojay