How to Replace Honda Accord Front Wheel Bearings

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The fact that you recorded the sound that it makes because it's hard to describe the sound to other individuals to get the proper diagnosis thank you very much I love your video I want to useful

samanthaschmittle
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This is the first video I've seen that explains what that piece is that gets cut off in other videos. Thank you for explaining "that it is a piece of the old bearing" and for making this video!

davidpadilla
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Couple of things I didn't see you do. Did not notice you put the snap in. That bearing also needs to be put in specific way. The magnetic side has to be read by the ABS sensor. Also you should never have a brake caliper hanging by the hose. Other than that great video man.

bostonboston
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16:11 You incorrectly have the brown seal facing out. The black seal must face out. The brown side’s inner race is magnetic so the wheel speed sensor can pick up the pulse signals while the wheel is turning. Notice Your ABS light is on after the job!

catlady
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What brand wheel bearing did you use? I notice even the name brand ones nsk, skf and timken are all made in china now in 2022. They once were made in usa 😅
Is autozone: Duralast brand good?> Heard its crap

JohnT
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Thanks for taking the time to even show us how it's done...👍

keepitreal
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I noticed that you pressed the old bearing out by pressing against the inner race of the bearing. That caused the bearing to break and leave the outer race in the knuckle. Then you had to press out the outer race. If you pressed on the outer race first, the entire bearing would have come out in one piece.

robertjohnson
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It was a nice video EXCEPT the forgetting the snap ring as everyone else said. More rework tomorrow to install the snap ring. 😡

manvaughan
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I got a question, I need to replace my wheel stud do I gotta take all this off like you did just to do the stud?

myke
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Notice how your abs and traction control lights are on? It's because the wheel bearing isn't universal, you have to make sure the magnetic pickup that's only on one side of the bearing is facing in towards the axle. I learned this the hard way

aplap
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thanks for the video i learned a lot from you i did my 2010 with your help. i ended up buying a 20 ton hydraulic press from harbor freight.its all worthed i do most of my repair on all of our vehicle here at home we have 3 hondas and soon to be 4.anyways so its well spent. i did grind the remaining part of the the bearing flanges on the old spindle and used it again instead of buying a new one and it works. over all thank you.

soukiallen
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Aww gotta love new parts all shiny n shit

myke
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What year is this Honda? Maybe I missed it.

edwardgalvan
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Question boss- I have a 2019 honda accord with 73k mileage and I have been dealing with the humming noise for so long . At first I changed all four tires and it was gone but then later 2 yrs after it started back again. So I changed the front 2 tires coz the back ones are good. i changed my brake pads too but not the rotors. I took it to a mechanic shop then the guy drove my car and after waiting for damn 2h they said I need left front and right front Axle. But before I told them about the noise they said its probably bad wheel bearings . Now what should I do boss?
They asking for total of $950 with labor and alignment . Parts cost only $248 each online . Please let me know sir thanks

samidpersia
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You should use a center punch when removing the axle from The Hub assembly.That's why there is a Center Line hole in the middle of the axle spline

KLLRGRN
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I was more interested on was what you used to sit the steering arm onto the press. I could not see with certainty to not make myself a mistake that could hurt me. Thank you so much for your video though. Is tough to work and record.

edmundochaparro-barriguete
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I bottomed out my 2010 accord coupe coming down off a hump in the highway, and ever since then I've been hearing a grumble noise(kinda sounds like im in the wrong gear) when I drive. the noise increases when I give it gas, and decreases when I slow down. kind of like the same situation as in your video. Im praying its not a trans issue. So I took it to my local Pepboys and they said the only thing they can see that may be the problem is the my F/R CV axle has a little play, and my intermediate shaft may need to be replaced as well. They want to charge me $1600 to do that. So here I am looking at YouTube vids to psych myself up to do it myself. I don't have a press machine though.

youngsumma
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You and I'd be good neighbors. I fumbled my way through this and lower ball joints on my 05 Accord at 200k. I am truly pissed at 370 the lower ball joints are gone. I don't understand why of all the parts in the front those are the ones that fail first and you can only push new ones in once before the knuckle becomes to lose to hold the ball joint in place. Anyways, I can get new knuckles with the ball joint for about a C note. They don't come with bearings or hubs so seeing you work the bearings in is helpful. I wasted one the first time out. Anyways, thanks.

inspectorraycharles
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Appreciate you making this vid Sir. I've an Integra R and it looks an almost identical setup and I reckon one bearing is _nearly_ ready to be replaced. I do remember replacing the disks/rotors and those Philips head screws were a bit of a pain to get off. I put a hint of copper grease on when I put them back, so should come off handy enough next time.

MrGrentch
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Surprised the bearing didn't blow apart when pushing the hub on. I have seen that happen when the inner bearing race is not supported.

SonomaComa