BMW R 1200 GS Tear Down: Cylinder Head Removal

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We're starting to tear down the engine from the 2005 BMW R1200GS parts bike. In this video we'll get the cylinder heads off. Next up is disassembling the heads themselves, so stay tuned!

In this video we also remove the front cover, alternator belt and alternator in addition to the cylinder heads. Includes lots of talking, explanation and discussion of what's going on AND a demonstration of two ways to install or remove an alternator belt - one using the official BMW tool and one with just a screwdriver.

Tools needed:

* T20, T25, T30 and T45 drivers
* rubber or dead-blow hammer
* E-Torx E10 socket (to remove alternator)
* Large adjustable wrench
* Large flat-head screwdriver
* Optional: official BMW alternator belt tool

Parts/supplies needed:

* can for parts storage
* rags for cleanup
* aluminum & steel recycling options

Remember we're not going to be putting this engine back together, so we may do some things otherwise inadvisable for an engine you need to continue running well. For instance, in this video we show you how to break the chain rail, WHICH IS DEFINITELY BAD!

[ioanniskoskinas]

What’s the part number for the special tool that locks the camshaft? At 15:04? Thanks.

[juantsausoglu]

Hello, I ask you, are the piston pins different, is the one on the right cylinder lighter?

[bradysolaem]

that which the cam sensor senses would be the reluctor wheel its just a magnetic pulse essentially

[sumporfuk]

I am extremely interested in this because I am hoping to get an idea as to why after changing my clutch it doesn’t seem to disengage, and the engine temperature rises not long afterwards. I have searched for answers until I am blue in the face, but there’s nothing to be found that shows even a glimpse of pointing me in the right direction. By the way, I am talking about a 2011 GSA that pulling the engine seems to be my last resort. Great video

[bradysolaem]

at 13;17 mid screen theres a bolt on the lower end of the screen i removed that attemting to clean carbon/ sludge from 80, 2003 miles od riding any way i can get this baby back in looks like its for the timing im really shitted now im thinking spin it over to tdc and that should loosen it up if its a tensioner or something but i dont want to take it off timing and potentially cause valve damage any help would be great new to bmw i got this baby with 78, 500 did all the services just barely finished 1 thing i wanted to do was de carbon it kind of sounds iffy and the windshield shakes pretty tough just trying to smoother up a bit

[Eastsussexbiker]

Have you video of removing engine from r1200rt 2008+/-

[ryland]

I think you said the bigger valves were the exhaust valves. That maybe wrong, I think it’s the opposite. The bigger valves are usually for intake, since it runs on the vacuum of the piston. Not by force of the piston as in the exhaust cycle.

[agustinguzman]

Crazy Question: Can this engine run WITHOUT the transmission attached? (I have an application that I want to use this engine, but don't need the transmission).

[grusgets]

BIG valves for intake, SMALL valves for exhaust.

[LTVoyager]

It all depends on how the engine and transmission were maintained. Well-maintained and 96, 000 is just getting broken in. My LT is almost at 90, 000 and runs and shifts better than ever. If abused, then I agree that 96, 000 is probably end of life.

[gafohosh]

Hello, I have an inquiry for the minute 12:22

[Kradmelder]

Has anyone ever swapped out a 98hp engine for a 110hp DOHC engine on their <2007 bike? Is this possible with reasonable effort?

[LTVoyager]

Only BMW would design a belt drive that requires a $100 tool to install the belt. Sheesh.