CORROSEAL Rust Converter - Does it Hold Up On Its Own? Tests and Results! 4 year review! Stop Rust?

Test and 4 year results of Corroseal Rust Converter. I have used Corroseal many times over the last 4 years. Lets see how it has held up! Lets also perform a corrosion test right now and see how it holds up on its own!

In the first half of this video, I test how it holds up on its own, just to see what it can do.

Corroseal is a primer and intended to be painted over to protect it. In the second half of this video, I show some steel that I have applied Corroseal to, then painted, in the past. I have painted over it many times in many different applications including vehicle frame, brake drums, weld beads on new body panels, and steel pipe. In my experience, the rust bubbles back through from under the paint. It does not appear to neutralized the rust as advertised.

UPDATE:
New 7 Month Vehicle Frame Test Video:
Clear Paint, to see if Corroseal is holding up under the paint!

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#corroseal #rustconverter

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How-to and Reviews

[huckleberryfinn]

I had a hideous rusty truck bed tool box. I wire brushed the rust. I sanded the good paint. I applied 2 coats of corroseal to the rust. I spray painted entire tool box with 2 wet coats the next day. The adhesion on the corroseal was excellent. The tool box looks excellent 3 years later.

[Pibblepunk]

This kind of review is extremely helpful for us DIYers who want to know what products actually work. Thank you so much for posting this!

[recrdholdr]

The rust converter is not intended to be a top coating it's intended to be a primer. You need to topcoat it with paint to seal it.

[danielb]

From my understanding you are NOT supposed to remove the rust on the metal being the Corroseal reacts with the rust and creates the barrier with the rust acting as the catylist to some degree. Sanding things down to bare metal defeated your purpose. Protecting bare metal is not what Corroseal was made to do.

[waynebaird]

I have also tried several tests with products on my vehicles. The rust converter I've used is from Loctite. I have had admiral results with it over many years. I own a 1978 F 250 4x4, which I purchased new. I've used this process on the front fenders in the wear areas from long ago fender flare wear lines. To this day I have no rust on these fenders where I used this process. But I did coat with paint after the Loctite rust converter was applied. My truck is used in the winter with salt on the roads and has never been in a garage. It's 43 yrs old now and I'm happy it still is in nice condition. However !, I am currently on my 3 truck bed. Each lasted about 20 years. Good luck and thanks for your info.

[jas]

Did you try applying a top coat like the instructions say? It's my understanding that rust converters, convert rust but do not stop new rust from forming thus the need for a top coat.

[gregr]

I also have had the same experience as you, rust comes right back no matter how many coats or how much prep! I am in Western Pa where road salt and brine are put down so heavy you can hear your frame rusting on a good night! I have had just as good of luck with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer as anything I ve ever used.If you put it on heavy and brush it in it does help slow rust down . I now use a product from Berkebile Oil Company in Somerset, Pa.It is called PFC, (Protection First Class), it is a blend of Lanolin Based, Rock Wool type product .Their salesman showed me tests of their frames on the sales fleets vehicles and I was impressed . I think you would like it.I spray my pinch welds and rockers and my frame . It creeps nicely and seems to stay on better than fluid films. I saw tests on the WD 40 product you are going to try also . You can get a gallon of PFC and a spray gun package for around 100 bucks.I am going to go that route.I have used over a dozen cans and love it .The small cans cost adds up quickly .

[KP-wwzy]

5 days ago, I finished applying 2-3 coats of Corroseal to my frame. I had previously knocked off as much rust as possible, and sanded the frame. Some spots were shiny metal, but most still had rust. The Corroseal turned black, just like the instructions said it would. 2 days after, I sprayed painted the entire frame with POR-15 Top Coat. It's been raining here for about 4 days straight, and I brought the truck in to work on another part. I was shocked to see that the entire frame has what looks like brown dots of rust. I was able to wipe it away, as it was still wet. Wet, mostly from condensation. The rain is not directly coming down on the frame. It only took 5 days for the rust start showing up. I don't think this stuff works at all.

[tatwood]

Brother I think your issues here, as I witnessed when you did the extensive testing on the flat bar, is that you likely spray on top of the corroseal before it is completely dry. When you did the rust over clean and rust over corroseal tests, it's evident that there were areas of the corroseal coating that were still globbed up and wet. Wait for the stuff to fully dry out, and absolutely use a top coat.

[josephpuchel]

Hey I think it should only be used on tight surface rust if your not going to take down to fresh clean metal. You usually clean and prime metal with a etching agent prior to priming or painting.

[BA-gnqb]

Well.
Scratch another "wonder" product for my old truck frame.
Thanks for the review.

[Greg_Bunch]

Thanks for your thorough video. I agree with your own assessment of Corroseal, after using it and having it fail spectacularly.

About 3 years ago I started making original light fixtures as a side gig / hobby, many out of rusted scrap steel. Any parts requiring new steel were rusted intentionally by using a vinegar / peroxide mix, so that they matched the others. I was looking for a rustic black finish, like old wrought iron. I therefore removed all loose rust, and after much research, decided on Corroseal as a rust converter/primer, topped with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum 2x matte black paint. All were applied according to manufacturer recommendations with regard to time, temperature, etc.

I did notice early on that the Corroseal seemed to chip fairly easily, as I had to recoat a couple of tiny spots where I accidentally tapped it with a tool etc while working on the fixtures. I should have thought more about that when it happened, but the product had such a good reputation etc that I figured I would be okay.

Around the same time I made a fixture using similar techniques, but wanted the final finish to be rusty. I therefore removed all the loose surface rust and simply used 4 coats of the Rust-Oleum 2x matte clear coat. In other words, the same paint as the black, except in clear.

Life has been kind of tough over the last two years, so I didn't really push to sell those completed fixtures. It turns out that was fortunate.

About a month ago I sold my house and moved. When I did, I took a moment to admire my fixtures, which had been carefully sitting in boxes, in a fully air conditioned occupied house. To my dismay, EVERY single surface on which Corroseal had been used was covered in tiny dots of powdery rust breaking through the finish. They were not related to any previous chips or other damage, but were everywhere.

I then looked at a test sample of steel which I had used for activating rust. After determining the best method for making them rust, I had prepped them and coated them in the exact same manner as the black fixtures. All pieces of the sample steel were rusted just as the fixtures were.

After that I examined the intentionally rust-finish fixture, the one which only had 4 coats of Rust-Oleum clear coat on it. No breakthrough rust was visible, but since the underlying surface itself was rust, I wanted to make sure. I rubbed it all over with a piece of white paper towel, then examined the towel for any trace of color. There was absolutely none. In spite of being covered in rust to start with, the Rust-Oleum clear coat alone had done its job, and the fixture looked exactly as it did when I finished it.

To put it mildly, I am extremely disappointed in Corroseal. I now face the tedious task of disassembling every fixture I made using this crap, stripping them down to bare metal, and completely refinishing them.

For me, Corroseal utterly failed in every way, and I will never use it again.

[HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Hello! In this video, the intention of the test was to show how Corroseal holds up on its own. I have received several comments, and am well aware, that Corroseal is a primer, and should have a top coat of paint.
I am currently running a test over the winter. I have applied Corroseal to half of a rusty bar, and Corroseal plus a topcoat of paint to the other half of a rusty bar. The bar is zip-tied under my car for the winter. I will post the results video in the spring!
UPDATE:
New 7 Month Vehicle Frame Test Video:
Clear Paint, to see if Corroseal is holding up under the paint!

[thomascrocker]

Thanks for posting, I really appreciate the level of detail you went into here

[timokuusela]

To use correctly, those latex/phosporic acid rust converters are only used to wirebrushed or sandblasted, clean-looking metal to prevent small pits of rust starting to grow. Even then, the metal must not be rusted through at all, or else the rust gets oxygen that way. For example, a lightly rusted car surface should be cleaned to look rust free, then the converter applied and allowed to dry completely, cleaned again to bare metal, primered with rust preventing primer, and painted. On the inside/other side, rust preventing spray applied to prevent possible rust pores that go through the sheetmetal to allow oxygen go through. Any rust that has formed layers is not treatable with converters, only way to slow that rust down is to thin atf with solvent, soak the area inside and out, and after few days, use rustproofing spray to form an oily/wax-like surface to prevent the atf from being washed away. And that only slows the rusting process down for some time. "Rust never sleeps..."

[shawnpa]

Thanks for letting see the results. Did you try anything that worked, por 15 maybe? What would stop control arm rust on an Impala people? Ah the north... Nice summers to (try to)fix the winters rust.

[Sunevel]

THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP!!! Almost bought a gallon😮 I’m trying to compare this with POR 15, I’ve used previously on a wheel well. I’ll stick with that

[danfalzone]

I've used Corroseal& follow directions, it works fine.Northeast salt belt.

[amylou]

I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.

[dacar]

Good test review. I believe Corroseal will work well in Southern states that don't use salt or chemicals on the roads on an annual basis.