How To Set Chain Tension On A Single Speed Or Fixed Gear Bike Blogger

In this video I briefly describe how to set chain tension on a single speed bike or fixed gear bike (or fixie) with track fork ends.

To tension a single speed bike all you need to remember are two things: keep the wheel centered between the frame stays, and make sure the tension is not too tight (chain wear/stretch) or too loose (slipping/skipping).

I also mentioned chain tugs. These fit over your axle and allow for fine tuning of chain tension and wheel alignment. Only one is needed, placed over the axle on the drive side, but another on the non drive side allows even further tweaking. They help prevent your axle from slipping. Chain tensioners also can pick up chain slack.

Track fork ends are rearward facing horizontal openings in the rear triangle of the bicycle frame for insertion of the rear wheel axle that allows chain tension to be adjusted by sliding the axle forward or backward in the slot.

Horizontal dropouts allow the rear wheel to "drop" out from the bike, which makes removing the wheel easier in the case you have fenders or something else mounted on your bike, but you can still adjust the chain tension similar to track fork ends.

Vertical dropout bikes can still have a chain tensioning feature in something called an eccentric bottom bracket (EBB), which involves loosening a couple bolts and rotating the bottom bracket. Removal of the crank is not necessary.

Note: I said 'track dropouts' in the video. Sorry about that nomenclature error. Even I made the mistake while trying to explain the mistake! LOL

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[almightyyotto]

I've road BMX bikes my entire life. Idk why but I just needed this video for reassurance lol I'm glad to know I did the right thing

[MTKqv]

Excellent video of the rear tyre and, in fact, just about everything EXCEPT where we need to see. Did you check the tension for a whole revolution of the chain ring (to allow for eccentricity)? Did you suggest how much tension is ideal?

[jonathanw]

Helpful video (except where the tire prevents a good view of what you are doing with your fingers at the chainstay), and I like the method as a whole (and thanks for the "dropout" knowledge tidbit)...
It's important enough to mention sprocket eccentricity though, which is a frequent reality... If there is even minor (hardly visible to the naked eye*) eccentricity, and the chain is set to proper tension at its loosest point, it will be too tight at other times. Better to have proper tension at its tightest point, and accept what slack exists at the loosest. This is also of vital importance in motorcycle chains (which must also account for suspension travel).
If there is binding, the chain will be RAPIDLY destroyed due to intermittent astronomical tension potentially in excess of tensile rating, bottom bracket and axle bearings and spindles will be stressed, and sprockets [particularly aluminum chainrings, if they are softer than chain rollers] will take two kinds of damage, (1) deepening of tooth-troughs during tight phases and (2) lateral distortion caused by "stretched" (which is actually more complicated but ultimately results in irregularly increased pitch [> 1/2"]) of the chain, both of which can cause mushrooming of edges (worst with "stamped" sprockets, less bad with forged, but neither is immune). It can be felt as intermittent vibrational knocking and torsional resistance in the crank when rotated. The knocking will be the rollers literally hammering the sprocket teeth. If this takes place for sufficient time (which is not much) to cause damage and proper adjustment is subsequently made, there will be intermittent surging due to residual chain and sprocket damage. Single speed chains have to be pretty loose to be a problem. For Fixies, the principal challenge that requires an optimum is backlash (the "dead" rotational angle between forward and rearward torque application) that will be present if chain is too loose. Backlash can also cause lateral sprocket peening, but only so much as the torque you apply. Over-tight chain is capable of considerably more damage.
*As for naked eye sighting of sprocket "roundness", it could be misleading and should not suggest any assumption, since while the points of the teeth may be in a perfect circle around the ASSEMBLED center point but troughs may have been cut slightly off center on budget chainrings and this is where it really counts.

Bottom line: The drive train should be advanced until the minimum chain tension is identified, and the setting should be made at this point, without further crank rotation.

[werdsmyth]

FWIW I do pretty much the opposite of what you suggest:

1. Hand tighten both wheel nuts. Chain should have some tension in it already.
2. Pull wheel to the right (so it's touching the right chainstay). Tighten the right wheel nut with a spanner until you feel resistance (i.e. not fully tighten but enough for the nut to hold the wheel).
3. Push wheel to centre. Spanner tighten left wheel nut.
4. Go back and re-tighten both nuts fully.

By doing it that way, I find step 3 gives the chain that little bit of extra tension you need to help transfer power into the wheel more effectively. It makes a different on my track bike for racing. Maybe not quite so important for an urban single speed.

[trevorduvall]

Good video. I learned something new today!

[abdg]

woah, did not know that is possible. Thanks! fixed the problem on my chain

[matthazard]

I have a Raleigh dpeed bike and the chain skips when Im riding(doesnt matter which gear I put it in) and its beginning yo be a pain. I havent gone to a bike shop yet and just thought I could get some tips from you first. Thanks!

[billdonavan]

hey, great little vid. Do you know where I can find sweet little axle nuts like those? Thanks—

[mikemadsen]

I always get on and ride it to find out how it tracks, should be just slightly to the left, if not it will be unstable.

[keisreeman]

Your video could've been so much better if not from a head cam.

[brandont]

Love your channel! Never owned a bike but plan on buying one to commute to work. I noticed in a few videos instead of just making a left turn you make a right then turn around and cross. Is there a purpose to that?

[RaittyRat]

Can anyone provide some further insight? I've recently switched to fixed after about 10 years of single-speed riding and I'm worried about having my chain too tight as that has caused problems for me in the past on my motorcycle (wheel bearing blew). At first I had it fairly loose but not loose enough to slip off the cog/chain ring so there was some play between cycling forward and backwards, should it be tightened to the point where there's no 'neutral' zone so to speak?

[mrdems]

The bike shop put my chain on my single speed and there is very little up and down play. It’s pretty tight. Is this ok?

[TheRamboAmbo]

What can you say about the white industries dos freewheel?  Do you recommend it?

[ParkRoadGuy]

So, I have a Simano Nexus 8 and horizontal dropouts and I've found that most chain tensioners are too thick to allow for use of the anti-rotation washer AND the chain tensioner at the same time stacked (though there might be some thin enough to fit). Is one tensioner on the drive side and an AR washer on the other a good idea?

[nicolejohnson]

Looks like you might be worrying ahead camera. Can't see anything your doing.

[matycee]

view blocked. unclear moves/concept. fail.