1.5 Mazda 2 Intake Manifold Removal / Gasket Replacement / Runners Check

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In this viedeo I will present you step by step the process of Removing the the intake manifold and replace the gaskets on this Mazda 2 with a 1.5 liters gasoline engine . This can be used to fix a vacuum leak , get acces to other components like starter motor , alternator , thermostat .

Disclaimer :
This youtube channel :"doit_vehicles " can not guarantee that this information suits your car . "doit_vehicles " assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk .
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I had to replace the knock sensor, which is behind the intake. This video was a HUGE help to me in getting this done. Thank you!!

Batti
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Great video! I followed it to change my knock sensor. I had to drill and easy out the security box screws around the ECU Harnesses. The knock sensor plug is located where he says the starter plug. Be carful, the EGR screws both snapped off during the rebuild and I had to drill + easy out them to remove them. I then used a load of WD40 for install and worked fine. The car ran very rough and I found an air hose was still disconnected and ran fine when put back on. Also make sure you use new manifold gaskets! I didn’t change any other gaskets. Good luck everyone!

danielparkes
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Thanks so much for this video, just removed my manifold to replace the knock sensor, took me about 5 hours. By far the hardest was properly removing the vacuum line under the manifold. I used a mirror on the right side and long angled pliers from the left to pull the clamp. Then used a big pick tool to push the hose out from the right. The knock sensor requires a 24mm socket with a slot for the cable. I had ordered o2 sensor sockets, but they're 22 or 27mm. I used a standard wrench and torqued it angled with it barely grabbing the sensor. Hope it works, but seems ok for now. Also we didn't see it, but the fuel sensors need to be picked from the back. Manual says to release the fuel pressure by opening the fuel cap, removing the fuel pump relay (top right blue) while battery disconnected and then starting the car 2-3 times so it stalls. Didn't know the fuel line was stilled with fuel and dropped all over myself. Learned so much, would probably take me 2h next time.

purpleblueunicorn
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👍👍 it's a bit tricky but after your video i can manage to do it

alexandrosaravidis
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Love your videos, very informative. I have been having an issue with my Mazda 2 1.5 where it runs fine however when you accelerate it seems to hesitate a couple of times, sometimes just once and sometimes 2 or 3 hesitations, so far I have changed spark plugs, coil packs, throttle body, MAF sensor and on live date my short term fuel trims are as expected and also my long term is only at 3%, someone has suggested it might be these runners causing the problem, so I'm going to check the motor first and then the runners themselves, fingers crossed 😂

JMBO
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Subscribed! Love the right to business approach and the no music fluff!

andrewcarmichael
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dude, u're a beast at making instructional vids! wow. this is impressive! a step by step detail guide! this alone should be worth a lrge amount of cash, lol! just found out the knock sensor has gone bad... but after seeing all this work that needs to be put in to access the drn thing, i think i'm going to pass...

martinechi
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You also should replace the KNOCK sensor because it's accesiable now. It failed on mine at 180.000km with a engine code on the dash

hendrikjan
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Excellent video, easy to follow and very detailed- job well done 👏🏻

hdlw
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Great video. But you don’t have to take those brackets off on the bottom of the intake. Just go in from under the car and disconnect the plastic clips from the brackets. Much easier.

sly
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Great video thanks for posting. I did mine today after 270k's. One thing i would add is when refitting the little hose bracket screw underneath the intake manifold, remove the hose from the bracket first and reclip after because its a bitch to do otherwise and definatly have the pick tool at the ready.

stressederic
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Hi, thanks for very informative video. How the vacuum leak in the intake manifold will (bad gaskets) will demonstrate itself? In other words, hiw would I know, that I have a vacuum leak on my engine?? Thank you. Pavel

paveljurena
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Nice video. Thank you.
I cant get the gaskets for the EGR valves. Can I use a gastek maker there? 1:34

albertosalatielchambejunio
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how about the brakes? like replacements, cleaning and bleeding out to remove bubbles or just replacing brake fluid after replacing brake pads

darwinb
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can this problem lead to engine oil reduction? and how to tell if my car has same problem?

AliSaeed
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Good afternoon, i was wondering if you could help me with a doubt i have. I need to install the ralenti valve (i think you called it Solenoide), is there any correct way? and also the flaps, they move so much, are they supose to only open and close and not up and down?... is there any way to video chat with you so i can show you what i mean.
thanks in advance.

edwinvasquezpiedrahita
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Great video thanks. Could you get to the knock sensor once the throttle body is off? Without having to take the inlet manifold off? Thanks

liggy
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I have a mazda 3 bk from 2006, it has the 1, 6 l, 77 kw, 105 hp, and i need to replace the knock sensor . Can you recap the tools you used ?

secretsecret
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What happend when i remove egr and intake flaps ? I did this to my 1.8L Accord to gain power in lower revs.

taktojonotvl
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the name of the booster piece on the intake manifold ? I broke mine

juantolentino