Can a Dead Battery be Revived? SEE PROVEN RESULTS! - Epsom Salt | Baking Soda | Super Charging

Is it Possible to Revive a Dead 12 Volt Lead Acid Car Battery to Use Again as a Reliable Battery to Start your Engine? Watch my test results of the many online videos stating that you can revive old batteries and even some people claiming you will never have to buy a 12 volt battery again. I will put these claims to test in this video... Hoping this really works!
My 12v tractor battery, which is 7 years old, has been getting weaker and weaker and finally became unable to start the engine without a jump.
I am really hoping that I will be able to revive this battery and prove that you can revive a 12 volt lead acid battery by following a few of the most popular videos claiming that it can be done.
In this video you will witness the tests I ran to revive this battery using Epsom Salt, Baking Soda and through Super Charging the battery. You will see for yourself what works and what doesn't as I walk you through this process.

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Disclaimer:
Although I have been following these procedures for many years; I assume no liability for any damage that may occur to any person or property as a result of the information provided in this video. I take necessary precautions (that I am aware of) when working on these projects but that in no way implies or creates any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any kind of particular result. Any injury, damage or loss of any kind to anyone or their property or anything related to information in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helping U Online (this video).

[mojibrahman]

Hello, I am a battery tech. Nice video. Baking soda treatment works during cycle life. After cleaning with backing soda. Trickle charge battery with old acid as it was done. Remove the old acid and fill with new battery acid with correct spefic gravity. Charge with standard or negative pulse charger. It will work like new battery if there is no internal damage to seperators or plates.
Every battery has a cycle life. You can't use a battery beyond it's cycle life. Lead plates will not exchange electrones beyond it's cycle life. Hope this information is useful.

[walterkronkitesleftshoe]

A sincere "Thank you" for sacrificing days worth of patience and some expense, so that we don't have to. Great to see honest, non BS vids like yours. All the best from the UK.

[anonymxyz]

I really appreciate your tenacity, thorough preparation and expert production of audio and video. I was intent on doing this myself with several batteries I hope to save. Given your tremendous efforts and unflinching courage to show results, you saved me serious heartache. Thanks so much.

[CanCoMe]

I learned a great lesson from this! Battery is just like a relationship, never give up easily, you kept trying and trying until you found out that every resource you used didn’t work, then you know for certain it didn’t work! You are a man with great virtue of patience! Thank you! I really enjoyed watching your video! Thanks!

[glennchristie]

It might not start a tractor but it could still be used for emergencies during a power outage for charging cell phones and running CB & Ham Radios. “You tried - my friend”.. I admire your determination…

[Theoneandonle]

Thank you for doing what you did. You are honest, what we all wish everyone was. You saved a lot of people a lot of time and money. I am sure you will be rewarded greatly for showing your work, God bless you, and enjoy your blessed life.

[chinesepopsongs]

You can restore batteries but it takes much more work and the actual casing has to be able to opened completly. The problem is the plates, which are technically not real plates but grates that contain lead-dioxide and not lead. The problem is that lead-dioxide is not a complete solid metal but more like a sticky pulver that is sticking in the grates. What happens if over time is that the pulver is leaving the plates and floats in the acid (you did try to filter it out0. Fun fact: when you fully discharge a battery the pulver is less sticky and can fall out of the plate more easy. Bumping and rocking a fully discharged battery actually is total destruction. The powder in the acid and not in the grates means 2 things. Your plate is thinner and not as effective and the stuff floating in the acid means the acidf is now conductive and causing internal draining of the electricity (old battries die sooner after charging even if hardly used). So what you should do for full restoration is 1 open the whole battery and instll fresh plates if possible. If not possible the only and best thing you can do is drain the dirty acid rinse with water but remember to rocking bumping shaking. And refill with clean acid and charge (best done with a computer charger that has deep uncharge/charge cycle program). The rinsing with all the shaking you did actually killed the battery more then it already was degraded before you did that, so now it is really toast. Also trying to clean with baking soda only made more lead-dioxide leave the grates.

[maxcrit]

Thank you for sharing this info. You saved me much time and heartache. Simple tasks take a lot effort for me being 80% disabled. I was just about to try to “revive” 3 deep cell marine batteries to take my kids on a very anticipated fishing adventure. Thanks again : )

[verbon]

This video is very well done! Good lighting and camera angles. Good sound. Well organized. You did a fair test of the restoration techniques on the other videos and followed the instructions. I feel like I got useful information from this video. Thanks.

[mikestirewalt]

Thanks for going through all of that and demonstrating things so clearly. You've surely saved a lot of people a lot of trouble.

[Tunnelrat]

7 year old, that battery was a legend already LOL . Mine last about 2-3years. Thanks for doing all the hard work so we don't have to go thought all that.

[Tomee]

Thanks for sharing your experience so we don't have to. I noticed your acid was black which meant your plates were eaten up by the acid which means it won't hold enough charge.

[marikamoon]

Diesels are a real test for a battery - all that compression! I dabbled in lead/acid batteries a while ago. Over a few years I attempted to revive dozens of them ranging from little 4A batts for small motorcycles up to fishing boat batteries about 300A. I realised fairly soon that if a battery was shorted then it wasn't worth any effort - unless you wanted a 10V battery for some reason - but if one cell is shorted then the rest probably won't be far away. I could go on for hours about bits I've learned about lead/acid batteries, but I'll try to be brief in the hope that some people can get some improvement in their old batteries. The death of a battery is the disintegration of the positive plates. It happens and there's nothing you can do about it except get new plates. Some manufacturers would of course have better-made plates. See if you can find the most reliable batteries in your locale and get an idea of what might be worth the effort to try to refurbish. While I'm on the subject of quality, I'd say always get batteries which have a long 'well' under the plates, as when a battery shorts-out, it's most likely from the detritus at the bottom, so batteries with little clearance underneath will be more prone to shorting. Batteries can also short from sharp sulphation deposits poking through the insulators in a cell. Small motorcycle batteries seemed to be worse when it came to keeping the lead/oxide on the positive plate grid when compared to larger batteries. If a battery has cells which are bulging then I'd be wary of it because even though it may be working at the time, it will likely short out soon. If sulphation is the only problem - say for example you left it and didn't charge it for years, or it was stuck in a back-up power supply for a computer and therefore on a constant charge for years so it eventually dried up, then it is possible to revive it to some extent. I've also tried various chemicals to 'wash' the plates or dope them - but without any real success stories - but some were much better than before. Mag sulph may keep a lower compression engine cranking longer after a dose of salts, but I don't think it is good for the battery. But if the battery's junk anyway then why not have a go? Here's the real deal with sulphation. It came to me after a lot of experimentation and I found confirmation from someone knowledgeable at a lead/acid battery factory. Here's what you do:- Just put enough demineralized water in each cell to cover the plates. The acid level will increase as the state of charge improves, so if you put too much in then it'll likely spill over. Keep the battery on a float charge of 13.1V or close to it for as LONG AS IT TAKES to clear all the sulphation. I'm talking possibly a month here. Another effective way to rid the sulphation is to put the battery on a miniscule charge of a few tens of milliamps for weeks, testing the discharge occasionally to watch the progress. I do that with tiny bike batteries with about 50% success - but bikes are quite easy to crank. Diesel's would be far less likely to be strong enough to do the job. If you leave a battery on a float charge for long enough then the sulphation WILL clear. You can also make a pulse charger. I made a half dozen or so pulse chargers from parts from inverter air-con electronics. I hit the batteries with very sharp spikes of DC. I made them with a simple multivibrator and a relay. The relay was driving an air-con transistor array which shoved up to hundreds of amps into the battery for a small fraction of a second. I chose to use a relay for two reasons. One is that I'm not very good with electronics and the second was that a relay must be just about the sharpest pulse you can get. I made those chargers with everything variable as far as pulse-width, voltage and power, and I believe they got many batteries cranking again. I use to get old batteries, then fix well-over half of them. I sold some and gave some away. The battery in my smaller motorcycle is over 20 years old and goes well. But many simply do not respond. I think if I had a diesel I'd rather pay more and get the largest battery I can get into the compartment and then I could sleep easily. I've managed to get lots of batteries for diesels working again, but they are quite hard and most failed. A pulse-charged and float charged/desulphated battery for a diesel could be better replaced by a refurbished larger battery which has been nursed back into some sort of health again. The smart chargers and so-called pulse chargers I've used have all been as good as useless and a waste of money. The old fashioned chargers with a transformer and a rectifier work best for me. It's lo-tech, but you could run a vehicle lamp of a lower wattage in series to the charger to give you a very low charging current to clear the sulphation. Just running a normal charge through a weary battery isn't going to do much (if any) good. I hope something in what I've written is of some help to someone. Wow! I've never typed so much in a reply! Scuse the typos if there are any.

[williamlangley]

I like his honesty about the work he's done to this battery

[satos]

I admire your persistency. I'm trying to revive a 6 year old battery as we speak. Got it up to 12.5v with the stick welder. Had one cell that was dead during the cycle but came back in the end. After an hour off the stick welder the volts dropped down to 8. On the trickle charger and now reading 9v and rising. I will leave it to charge for 48hrs but I don't think it will have the cranking amps to turn over my small block V8 engine. Only a miracle will save this battery.

[trevinom]

Reconditioning an old battery only works under certain situations. First off, it will only work if the only issue is sulfation, the other one is if it's a deep-cycle battery. The plates they use on regular batteries are thin which wear out inside of the 3-5 year lifespan of the battery. For deep-cycle batteries, the plates are thicker and there is a better chance of it coming back to life once the sulfation is removed.
The proper combination for the restoration is to drain the acid, do the rinsing with water like you did, then put in the epsom salt as you did. The only difference is that you want to do a few charge-discharge cycles over a few days to allow the epsom salt to fluff of the sulfates covering the plates. After this, drain out the epsom salt, then rinse out again with water. The final step is to fill it up with fresh acid. You could re-use the original acid you drained out, but you want to let it sit for a few days to allow the solids to settle, then take out the clear layer and filter it a few times.
You can then re-use it in the battery and top off with distilled water.
This will not bring back the battery to its original state, but should give you a few more years of use at a lower AH. You could probably redo this step after a few years when it sulfates again after regular use.

[tlbx]

Moral of the story, don't waste your time. More time and energy was spent than could have been saved had the process worked. Not to mention the "reliability factor" of used versus new. Thanks for this video. It proves the point.

[poboy-tobj]

I have tried all these same processes on 4 Different batteries and never had any luck either! Great video…

[dangraham]

Thanks for trying everything you could think of and showing us all the steps and testing you did.

[moodiblues]

You’ve convinced me! I sure rather pay a few hundred than go through all you’ve done to try and revive a battery.