Chevy Cruze Turbocharger Replacement

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This video goes over replacing the Turbocharger on a Chevy Cruze.

Level of Difficulty: Advanced
Approximate time: 3 1/2 Hours
Tools needed: Pliers, 5/16 nut driver, T45 torx bit socket, E10 inverse torx socket, 8 mm socket, 10 mm

Vehicle used in this video: 2012 Chevy Cruze

The part depicted in this video may fit other vehicle applications, and installations may vary from application to application. Certain vehicles may require different, more or fewer steps. Follow all safety precautions and procedures recommended by the vehicle manufacturer prior to servicing the vehicle. Pay special attention to all warnings and safety systems involved in this repair. Review the disclaimer at the close of this video.

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Notice that this video does not show specifically how to remove the coolant line from the engine block. The 17mm bolt. What tools were used to get back there? I've heard, but not confirmed it can be obtained by a socket and very long extension. He also doesn't show removal of the bottom bolts of the exhaust manifold. How are they accessed with the wastegate actuator in place? Check Youtube for other video's. This makes the process seem a little over easy!

daveg
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Man you guys skipped a ton of steps, mostly the hard parts:

1. Getting that second bolt off the oil return is really difficult because its covered by the line itself. Also, if you want to have your warranty for your new turbo you're supposed to replace it. I believe you have to remove the cat to even get to it. You didnt show the removal of the cat....

2. That 17mm bolt holding the coolant return is the WORST. Getting a wrench in there to get it off is very difficult. You didnt show that part, nor putting it back on. (I am literally looking for a video putting this back on, which I spent at least an hour on to no avail)

3. You also didnt show all of the gaskets that need to be replaced. Pretty important to do if you want to make sure you dont get any leaks on your brand new turbo.

-sonic owner with turbo install in progress

-klo
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good video but would like to see more of how it actually came out and when you put back in.

gustavorodriguez
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Thanks, you explain very good, God bless you.

SerafinWilkinson
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Just the video I was looking for!! Great instructions, now I feel a little more confident to take on this project. Thanks!

Bruceyenzer
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When installing the 17mm cooling line bolt, use a regular socket and pack it 3/4 full of paper towel. What happens is, when you push it on to try and start the threads into the block, the bolt head slides back into the socket and theres not enough threads showing to start it. Use a long extension. On the lower manifold nuts, place a small piece of paper towel over the end of the nut, then push your socket on, this keeps them tight in the socket so they won’t fall out.
Watch a video on how to bleed cooling system, there’s a bleeder plug on the top of the radiator i didn’t know about.

RS-jvqd
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Always have a oil return pipe on hand and on the estimate. The pipe is typically cracked or ready to fail when disturbed, even gently.

etITWright
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So how’d you get that 17mm bolt out? That’s literally the last thing I can’t get loose...

DeahWarran
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Overall this is a helpful video. Some extremely important details that were left out...namely:

Firstly. Re-installation of the right side water line secured with the 17mm banjo bolt and double washers is tricky and 100% by feel as there is a rubber hose above it obscuring the line of sight, plus the crush washer will want to fall off the end of the banjo bolt.

Secondly, the oil drain is VERY difficult to install. One of the bolts is blocked by the drain and near impossible to secure and requires some creativity to tighten. then I recommend greasing both O-rings on the drain itself so they do not bind when slipping it into the block. You have to make sure the manifold is actually loose, not even on the studs and then you coax the drain into the block, fortunately it has a goose neck but it is tricky and time consuming. Be prepared to get your hand scraped up along the way.

slownrusty
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excellent video how much does it cost to change a turbo only labor😊

eclipsemx
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When you drain the oil feed line to the turbo do you add that amount to the enigine oil? So the engine is 4 Liters plus the amound in the turbo?

Caluy
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Should you replace anything else while doing this? Such as head gasket or timing chain?

tonydunn
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Can I ask what was the mileage on Chevy Cruze when you did this swap change. I have 2014 Cruze and wanted to keep an I on mileage just to see if I have problems like the one ur working on. Thanks for the video

renedelafuente
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Were there any other issues with the removed turbo other than the cracks in the wastegate area? To hear GM talk about it you'd think they see that as almost normal.

dblissmn
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My turbo is throwing underboost codes sometimes, I heard all turbos cracked, did you do a boost leak test, before you actually replaced the turbo?

johnnelson
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So I literally just replaced one of these and I really have no idea how you guys manage without moving the ac compressor out of the way. It's an extra 6 screws and two wire connectors.

footprint_
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Just asking if the replacement turbo will diesel engine will not run away

ChristinaStachura-jnpl
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Does it have to be reprogrammed after changing the turbo?

micharife
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How do you get the lower left manifold 10mm stud in i cant get it started super super hard to reach i have a 2013 i am stuck and dont know what to do

adventures
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Do I need to upgrade my transmission on my cruze eco for a docas turbocharger

itsgagebruh
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