☄ Laser Control with Inkscape #1

3D Printers can do so much more than, well, 3D Print!

Create Marlin compatible GCode for our Laser tool-paths using Inkscape and 'J Tech Photonics Laser Tool' extension.

If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Tech2C Patreon page:

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A very special thank you to Patrons:

Zak Gurney Chalmers

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Download Inkscape:

Download 'J Tech Photonics Laser Tool' extension for Inkscape:

2.5w Laser Diode:

Safety Glasses:

Download the HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC from Thingiverse:

Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood:

Amazon 3D Printers and Parts:

[Cyberdactyl]

Absolutely awesome. Thank you for making me aware of this software.

[BLau-oizc]

Thnaks man! even in 2021 very detailed and follow-able! much appreciation!

[goldbunny]

Your videos just get better & better. Finally got my Tronxy working to 20x20x20mm accuracy so it's time to print my Large Frame HYPERCUBE parts. Keep going Tech2C, train loads of us are "following" and benefitting from your excellent work.

[unlost]

So sweet ay. Great video. You have good communication skills. Keep up this fantastic info.

[rafa.ferraz]

Awesome! Great tutorial! thank you so much!

[bronkula]

This really drops the barrier for entry. I'm super excited to try it out.

[johnstratairious]

YOUUUU...finally someone e to teach you ink scape...I really appreciate this...thank you so much.

[mbainrot]

Make sure that you choose the right version of the plugin! If you use 0.92 plugin in the 0.91 version of inkscape, it doesn't put the "middle" coordinates for 200mm in the middle of the page. Took me to work that one out.

Also don't forget to G92, otherwise you have to reset the printer to do another cut

For ventilation, I am using a Rule Inline Blower and 75mm bilge vent duct, has the nice benefit that it is 12v. The only issue I've found is that air flow is degraded by the ducting, so it's prob a better idea to have rigid duct from the inlet to the blower then use the flexiduct to go to the window. Cuts down on the smell + smoke massively

@Tech2C, thank you thank you thank you :D I've started laser engraving on my hypercube and it's freaking awesome.

[mrjoeyman]

If you download Repetier Host and put in your printer settings, you are able to open the prepared Inkscape file and open it up in RH and actually see where it will print on your bed. Helps me a lot. At the very least it shows when a "print" will run off of the edge of the bed so you can make adjustments.

[dkeinys]

Next one would be nice to see CNC spindle to cut carbon frames for micro drones!!!!

[sinformant]

Thank you for this great video! Now to save up for that $250 15w laser so I can convert my folgertech ft-5

[BenedictTanShanWen]

For the last couple of weeks I have been working with a Chinese built 70w laser and it occurs to me you may want to add a fan somewhere on your printer and duct it to your laser diode emitter. Hear me out ;)

As your laser vaporizes material those hot gases will condense on any cool surface (which is why we keep the protective paper on acrylic). Those gases will often wind up condensing on the focus lens of your laser diode which is why many laser cutters feature compressed air ducted into a gas lense around the focusing lens.

I'd suggest cleaning your lens with acetone and a q-tip. If you have any deposit on the q-tip you will definitely want to look into some form of air-assist.

An additional fan to help duct smoke away from your active cut will also make a difference in your effective power at the focul point. The fact your beam is visible in the smoke means you are losing a lot of energy as your beam travels through it.

[SYLTHECRU]

Do you have a video or directions of how you wired the laser to your 3d printer?

[babbagebrassworks]

Got a 3018 with 2.5W lase, wanted to know how to use it, now I know, thanks. Inkscape works on Raspberry Pi's.

[originalmianos]

You can use control to resize constraining the ratio.

[sw-ewed]

Thank you so much! I was getting really frustrated with my diy chinese laser machine as it never cut properly to size. Your tutorial was a blessing. I was totally clueless in gcodes and your tutorial is a God send. Thank you so much again. I have a few questions. If you don't mind me asking.

1- Laser on Command in the J tec pop up..can i put anything there? like f1 or f2.?
2. Laser power - it says 0-225 but also 0-12000. what does that mean? I put 1000 as I felt when i put 255 it wasn't burning well.

[Rhysss]

Hi, thanks for sharing this, I learned a lot from it. I'm having trouble generating the g-code for a filled svg image. I would like to engrave a piece of wood with the text fully black, rather than outlined. Is this an easy thing to do?

[SVK]

Thank you for this video!
Could you please tell me which settings you have for acceleration and jerk in marlin?
I have problems with round forms like the letter "o". The X and Y axis drive very slowly (nearly standstill) on round forms and then ther laser birns too much in this area. On letters like "A" the laser drives on the normal velocity.

Thanks

[birdmun]

G1 is the command to move at cutting speed. G0 would move at rapid speeds. If you typed G0 Z50, the printer would move at 100mm/s or what ever you have the rapids set at.

[Dosman]

Hey man, could you tell me if there is a way to let it first cut this inside details and after that the outside.

Also would love to know how to let the laser cut start in the bottom left corner instead of the bottom middle.