5 tips for sewing a gusset on a leather bag

Gussets can be a big pain point in making leather bags.
Getting the length right, sewing around tough corners, etc...I've got a few tips that should help if you're struggling with this like I have.

Chahin's Vegetable Tanned Leather -

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0:00 Introduction
0:02 5 TIPS FOR SEWING A GUSSET
0:45 TEST, TEST, TEST
1:16 GO LIGHT2
2:28 CUT SHORT
3:07 STRONG ADHESIVE
3:23 WATER BASED NON-TOXIC
4:12 CYLINDER ARM MACHINE

[samuelcooley]

Very good tips! Gussets used to be my worst nightmare too. Another way to cheat is to sew from both sides of a two piece gusset top down to an offset from the center mark at the bottom. Stop, trim the excess and sew the two gussets together. Then sew up the remaining hole between the body and gusset. This helps when you have a radius or you have inconsistent results due to stretching ect. If you skive well and cut the excess straight I’ve had pretty good results this way.

[markdentoneagles]

Hey man I really like your videos. I'm 62 USMC VETERAN and due to a disability I'm unable to work anymore, so I just ordered a beginner's kit. I going to try my hand at leather work as a hobby. Pray for me and GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
MARK

[AngDrea]

Thank you for being direct, concise, and straight to the point. I’ve watched so many videos and all the other beat around the bush as far as giving helpful information. Also what cylinder arm machine would you suggest for a beginner?

[Montana]

Excellent video. All mistakes that I've made myself. 1" shorter was an unknown to me....great tip...worth the price of admission..lol

[vloggamande]

Parker = a man for the people! Thank you so much for this tips video!!!

[trishdelaneywoller]

Thanks, appreciate info regarding the type of sewing machine you used. I struggle with top stitching and quality look. Again thanks.

[coopersmom]

Thank you very much for all great tips and insights. Very helpful.

[bareniconiku]

Thanks for the tips. That one 1 inch i noticed to the previous video. I think i am starting to be more accurate at what you're teaching us. Thanks for everything. God bless you and your family.

[Vleathercraft]

Think Thread length is the best idea...thanks 🙏🏾

[devriescustomleather]

Good job. Quick and to the point. I'm glad you changed to water base as a young man, that was a good move for your heatlh, your family will have you longer.Have a few things I still use Barge but not many open every hole in the shop when I do. Lord bless you

[FatManLeather]

Thanks for the tips, I'm just getting into bags so they'll be helpful.

[jordanwhite]

The 1" rule would vary, I think, depending on what seam allowance you use. Is that a Cobra 26 machine that you're using? Love it!

[Dahna_]

I wish someone would do a video on using the holster plate and why it helps when sewing molded items.

[farhadfadayi]

thanks for one inche shorter gusset tip. good to know

[Ari-eilg]

Thanks Parker! Awesome tips! Why do you use 3 pieces of leather instead of one continuous piece to make the gussets? Awesome bag!

[sakharghanim]

Thanks for your content. I learned a few things from you

[darringauthier]

That’s the part I liked in your last video
Great job👍😎

[GreySageLeather]

Thanks for the tips on this sometimes painful process! I appreciate your candor about all the "practice and trial" time you take in your design and production process.

[dannylin]

If you're using round corners on the body of the bag, the difference between the lengths of the outer circumference of the body and the gusset is often due to the difference between the diameter of the round corners of the body and the the corners that the gusset actually is glued to and travels.
So, for example, if the 2 corners of the body combined are a half circle of 1" diameter, and the seam that the gusset uses is 1/4", that means the the corners of the body are 1" x 3.1416 ÷ 2 and the gusset's corners are (1" - 1/4" x 2) x 3.1416 ÷2, and the difference 0.7854". Thickness and stretch of the leather will change things a bit, but the above math should solve out 99% of the issue. Obviously, it's better to use bigger diameter corners with smaller seams as it reduces the stretching needed for the gusset (In the above scenario, it's a 100% stretch, and you can reduce it to 33% by using 2" diameter and 1/4" seam).

[tucsonleatherco]

Have you considered using the Stirrup Plate which is specifically intended to be used for sewing gussets ?