7 Ways to Prevent Rust on Your Tools

0:00 Introduction
0:50 Dehumidifier
1:32 Dust Collector
1:58 Enclosed Space
2:35 Camphor
3:30 Wax
4:28 Oil
5:47 Nipping Rust In The Bud

Author/craftsman Nick Engler shares seven valuable secrets that he employs to keep the tools in his woodworking shop from rusting. Rust, he explains, is an electrochemical reaction between three substances – iron, oxygen, and water. You can’t remove the iron or the oxygen, so you must cut down the amount of water that comes in contact with your tools. This means either reducing the humidity or moisture in your shop, or sealing off your tools from the humidity and moisture. Nick shows several ways to do both.

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And thank you so much for your time and interest!

[wiseoldfool]

I've only recently stumbled across your channel, but I love the way you talk to us, not at us, and I like the pace. I'm going to watch every video you have ever made.

[bphenry]

As a replacement for WD-40 (which doesn't have much staying power), you should give Boeshield a try. It doesn't displace water from a wet tool, but on a dry tool it does a great job of leaving a long term protective layer. Also, for those of us who do not have a dedicated workshop but use our garage, put a magnetic engine block heater on your table saw, drill press, or other larger tools. You can even attach one to the bottom of a large rollaway metal toolbox. This will prevent the warm humidity coming off of a rainy car from condensing on those tools.

[timcgrew]

Glad to see you're back Nick. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the community and future woodworkers.

[fishingforparis]

Thank you again for your sound, straightforward approach. You help me a lot.

[Lee-xuwb]

I keep coming back and rewatching this video. A LOT of good information in this one. Thank you for the reference, Mr. Engler!

[swampflux]

Definitely encountered all of these problems in my first two years of dabbling and acquiring second hand tools that come already rusty. Great advice! Thanks

[jerrystark]

As always, first-rate advice.
I use moisture-absorbing dessicant packs in my tool chests and drawers, but I have never heard of using camphor pellets, a very cool idea.
I also use Boeshield T-9, a lightweight paraffin-based lubricant designed for aerospace anticorrosion applications (Boeshield for "Boeing shield"). It works very well for planes, chisels, knives, scrapers, drill bits, etc., because it lubricates yet doesn't attract dust. I have used this for about ten years and I am pleased with the product.
And, as you said, the old standbys, WD-40 and paste wax, not to mention very light coats of 3-in1 oil, are useful for just about everything, anytime, anywhere.
Thanks!

[TermiteIQ]

I'm a beginner woodworker and this channel is super helpful! You're awesome man keep up the great work!

[jameslufrano]

Enjoyed your lesson. Not many people know what WD stands for. Another good one is RTV, which stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. Another interesting fact I learned while in the Air Force, is they use WD40 on the A-10 aircraft engine periodically. Thanks again, awaiting your next lesson!

[fabianherrera]

Another tip i learmed from a old diy book is used motor oil! You can brush it on outdoor garden tools or combine it in a bucket of sand and stab it in a few times, this ckeans and protects. Fluid film supposedly works really well in auto applications, i dont see why it wouldnt on certain tools taht arent often used.

[garyrobinson]

Glad you are back. Thanks for the suggestions,

[rosscog]

You are fantastic. Combining woodworking and science to fully explain what you are doing. I'm so impressed by you technique I've subscribed to your channel. I've been watching youtube for years and this is the only channel I've subscribed too.

[charlesenfield]

I keep an assortment of tools in my cars and trucks just in case. It's very difficult to keep them from rusting. I could certainly wax or oil them a couple times a year, but who needs another chore. But the only alternative I had for a long time was to remove the light rust every couple years. Oiling probably would have been faster and easier, but I wouldn't think about it until I needed the tools and saw the rust. I've been using Zerust tabs for a few years now and they work as advertised, but I'm looking forward to trying camphor. It's always nice when you can solve a problem with inexpensive, commonplace products. It might have the secondary benefit of keeping mice out of my vehicles. Thanks for the tip.

[nelsondog]

Always good old-fashioned, solid information. You gotta live it!

[johnhiggins]

Thanks for the good advice. I'm been gathering knowledge from YouTube for sometime now. It's getting harder to find because there is so much b.s. l like your channel because you prove what you say. And your not begging for me to like or scribe. I never heard you even ask. As always you have good advice. Thanks

[jeffreydickson]

I have found that the silicone socks sold through gun shops and online gun stores for rust prevention during the storage of firearms work very well for block and bench planes.. I have never found any residue on a tool that could mess up a finish but I suppose there is a first time for everything.

[LoveJesus]

I think you look and speak like you're living in Mr. Rogers neighbourhood. I like it. You're making learning really pleasant and enjoyable. Thanks for everything that you are teaching and sharing, and for doing so in such a calm, clear manner. 💝

[sanderd]

I tend to keep some packets of silica gel (the things you get with new shoes) with delicate tools in enclosed boxes.

Tends to work too.

[ScottAuch]

Just a minor clarification: mineral oil is not to be confused as “natural” in the organic sense.

Mineral oil (or mineral spirits) are inexpensive petroleum (paraffinic) based replacements for bio-based oils like turpentine or glycol.

The word "mineral" in "mineral spirits" or "mineral turpentine" is meant to distinguish it from distilled spirits (distilled directly from fermented grains and fruit) or from true turpentine (distilled tree resin).

“White” mineral oil is the most refined (food-grade) version of petroleum oil. WD-40 is a petroleum “distillate” with additives.

[barkebaat]

3:36 - Yes. Do this on a regular basis and your machine tables will gleam with that dull sheen that speaks of years of good maintenance, which is a good way to rate a woodshop.