Roofing | Shingles vs Metal and the Real Problems with Both

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Shingles verses metal roofing | Opinion from a builder to help you decide one what type of new roof to install... cost difference, durability, and problems I’ve come across with all common types of roofing over the years. Be informed to make the best choice.
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As a retired GC of over 40 years it is rewarding to see there are still craftsman out there doing their best to build a quality structure and home. Keep up the good work. God Bless. As for the roofing I will go with Certainteed anytime.

wolverinend
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Watching your older videos compared to now, you have came a long way with your editing and style. Keep up the great work Eric

terencemerritt
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I built a cabin in 1980. Put on a ribbed metal roof over laid down 2by4s on 2 foot spacing with no plywood underlay. Used neoprene washered nails back then on the high points of ribs. No leak problem as of 2020 and when walking on it it is very solid. Has the galvanized finish that has held up very well to upstate NY weather

josephraymond
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I have installed quite a few metal roofs for remodels. We have always used furring strips and I would like to point some things out. We always install a treated board at the eave of the roof as an extra precaution in case water is driven up under the metal. The reason we run purlins is due to the fact that I have seen the screws being used to fasten the metal pull out of the roof sheathing fairly easy (stripping out); so we make sure that we screw the purlins down to the trusses and then attach the metal so it has a secure hold. I also recommend choosing 26 ga. Metal opposed to 29 ga. It has less chance of being damaged during install as well as holding up in bad weather. In regards to the screws and their washers, for a little extra money they sell what’s called an “XLM” screw. These have an attached collar that covers the washer completely and if installed correctly has an awesome seal on it which we install on all our roofs.

eliwilliams
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Had to do an addition on a building with standing seam metal. The previous roofer used 3/4 slats to fir up the roof at 2ft oc.
What I noticed was that when you step in between those slats, it's very weak and bends when you step in the non supported sections.
Also noticed that the air space left from the 3/4 material left a runway for mice and hornets...
Filled to the brim with mouse turds and urine...

JackJohnson-mcki
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I'm in Australia. So different climate and building codes.
The vast majority of the roofs here are colourbond (metal), with some tile roofs. I have never installed or dealt with shingles.
When I do colourbond I install the truss/rafters, wrap them in sarking (usually proctor wrap), then batten with mgp12 or hardwood, then lay the sheets. Having the gap between the roof sheet and sarking gives somewhere for the condensation to go. In theory the roof sheet would condensate, and the condensation would either run down the bottom of your sheet to the gutter, or drip onto the sarking and run too the gutter.

oystercovecraftsman
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our house is very old and has a extremely strong metal roof that cost the original builders of the house around 20k. It is steel infused copper and i dont know much about roofing but im sure its pretty damn tough as the house hasnt had any roof repairs or updates since the house was built 120 years ago. Metal roofs are very expensive and do suck to operate and clean and repair and stuff but over time you will save so much money and headache. 120 years later our roof is standing strong still.

monty
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I'm a traditional metal roofer with 25 years experience. Also my father before me was a metal roofer. Metal roofs are traditionally a "fully supported" roofing system and should (unless being fixed to a metal substructure) always be sitting directly onto your plywood or osb. However there are rules depending on whether the roof is a cold or warm roof. On a cold roof, battens (strapping) are used to create an airflow gap between rafters and the underside of the plywood carrying the metal roof. In a warm roof you would typically sheet the roof as normal, then apply a vapour barrier, then insulation which is generally bonded to ply or osb to support the metal directly. Although there are slight variations in different areas due to climate differences, this is the general rule for most temperate climates

derekmcdermott
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It's amazing to see how the channel has developed since this video

michaelmiller
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A standing seam metal roofing will last for more than fifty years if put on right. It will out last any shingles and stay on better too.

benjimenfranklin
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Damn, imagine having to mow around that zigzag fence!

beachboardfan
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Thank you. Helped me to make a decision. We are going to start building soon in Idaho.

JFAM
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MOM, THERE'S A MAN ON THE ROOF TALKING TO HIMSELF!

lorenrickey
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I moved to the south recently and was surprised by all the metal roofs. I would think they would transfer heat into the structure, but I don't know. For that reason I would vote for putting battons between the metal and the sheathing. But again, I'm just guessing.

timbarry
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Metal roofs are recyclable after their life span is up ( 50-100 years or more depending on pitch and maintenance), asphalt shingles are somewhat of an environmental disaster.

gregoryvschmidt
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Nice video. Switch to Duration Flex. Atlas is a low grade shingle maker.

joetinghitella
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As a former to get a roofing manufacturer to give you a refund for bad doesn't

tommyd
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I installed a white metal roof over 1x4's and Rhino Roof material. The main reason for this is hail storms, shingles get destroyed by hail but metal can take it. A neighbor has had his metal roof for 37 years with no leaks or hail damage and improves the insulation value in the summer by not being a dark color. In the future, roofs will be 3D printed so this won't be a question in 10 years. I'll take a ventilated graphene or carbon fiber 3D printed roof in white...please.

EVnewbie
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Are many roofs tiled in the US? Most of the videos and images of homes I've seen have shigles.

mattymc
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Some of my dislikes about metal are that the screw do back out over time, Their slick to walk on if you need to come back and do a repair, A lot of installers of metal are DIYers, good ole boys and carpenters that have no conception about roofing. Color fading would be the other biggie to me and they do fade. Exposed gaskets do go bad and for goodness sakes never screw a metal roof right into a shingled roof. Always use 1x4's for a solid bite when you drive the screw in.

JimWhite
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