Are Climbing Accidents Preventable?

Jason discusses high consequence and fatal accidents in climbing and how they can be prevented. The key in rock climbing is reducing both consequence and probability to get the overall risk of an accident minimized. #rockclimbing #safetyfirst #climbing

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Big Wall Essentials (sick climbing chalk):

[spncrptrsn]

This kind of content is invaluable. Thank you.

[MosesSedler]

I can't help thinking that using a PAS clipped to a hanger would have given the climber the opportunity to check the system after cleaning the gear😢

[ryenschimerman]

Thank you for discussing risk and introducing a basic risk matrix. When I came across it in the NIST framework about a decade ago, it literally changed my life.

One thing I would add, would be that any sort of PAS system properly used would have prevented this tragedy. Pressure testing your system before weighting, is a cure for a lot of mistakes.

[paulmorin]

Very sorry to hear about this fatal climbing accident. I appreciate your excellent perspective on risk management and safety. We look at frequency/severity quite a bit in what I do and I find it useful in many situations, particularly climbing. Thanks for sharing.

[AnnaSchmaltz]

Honestly, I’ve wondered about the consequences of falling and their probabilities as I am newer to climbing. Understanding the risk factors does help. Thank you!

[vinceburris]

Invaluable usable content. Thank you. Please, keep em coming.

[mignonhagemeijer]

This can also be avoided by having a lanyard or even first using a quickdraw you secure yourself? Only unclip that when you're back in belay & the lanyard is unloaded. It creates so much more redundancy and is so little additional effort when cleaning a route

[Erik-vruu]

Around the 7 minute mark was quite eye opening for me. I consider myself fairly experienced, and I often take a few less experienced friends with me to the crag. Usually I lead a climb and they can top rope it (although they all have lead experience indoors, most of them are not confident enough to lead outdoors). Admittedly I have little knowledge of rescue techniques, and I think I will have to get some practice with some expert climbers

[djdiscopapi]

love it! managing risk is the name of the game.

[ryanratliff]

Hey man just wanted to say that I really appreciate your content it’s always concisely made and useful information. Lots of climbing YouTubers out there over the years that haven’t really held up but your content is consistently good so thanks man.

[jamjam]

I really like this video. Greetings from the Canadian Rockies! A great place to visit for all types of climbing :)

[MaxM]

Hey Jason! I miss your content! Any news?

[dylangene]

Is there a reason most mussy hooks both face out away from the rock? I wonder if one faced in and one faced out, if this type of mistake could have been avoided. I don't think this opposing orientation would make it more difficult to clip.

[Lambda]

Great video. Only additional thing worth discussing is; are dual mussy-hooks a sufficiently safe sport anchor system? Looking at it from a European perspective where they aren't used, they seem quite sketchy to me.

[falkschulz]

Thank you for the helpful content!Are there any textbooks you would recommend for safe climbing, different anchor systems etc?

[chriskaplan]

Hey Jason great content as always, you are so thoughtful and intelligent with your approach. Let me guess, work in emergency management or safety/security? Thanks!😊

[EstrogenSingularity]

Here's a simple idea purchase two stainless steel rings made by refutable company like fixie hardware keep them in your car or van or whatever top rope through the fixed hardware after you lead then when you find worn out rings go in direct on the bolts still on belay with the quick draw below and replace the worn out rings

[gimmepowder]

PAS probably would have prevented this tragedy. Even then this climber should never have been sent up to clean the anchor without having cleaned an anchor under supervision first.

[dannyCOTW]

If you look at the aviation industry decades ago it was really quite a dangerous activity. Now, commercial aviation has a similar risk as standing in your living room. This is an extremely clear example that if a community wants to, we can effectively bring the risk to 0.

There is also a cost of doing this, the effort of consistently eliminating or mitigating unnecessary hazards, engineering controls (making gear that can only be used correctly), and administrative items like certification requirements, and PPE like wearing your lid.

I know which choice I want to make.

[CharlieTrevaskis]

Do you think mussy hooks are appropriate for out of site top roping of multiple beginners? I think the extra locking biner for security could make sense. I also feel like having a personal anchor while cleaning, even if its just a single biner, then testing before removing would go a long ways.