Alternator replacement 2005 2006 Ford Escape 3.0L DOHC All Wheel Drive

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Alternator replacement 2005 2006 Ford Escape 3.0L DOHC All Wheel Drive
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I just replaced a '05 Mariner alternator & it took 7 hours in 2 days. I pulled the motor mount bolt to raise the engine because could not remove the exhaust.
I dropped tie rod & removed the drive axel. Unbolted the plastic air tube while on the vehicle then had to turn the alternator around to get it out.
Putting it in I had the plastic air tube in two pieces. I installed in reverse fashion — Installed the plastic air body on while up in the vehicle, bolted the alternator on (I put the stud on the bottom hole instead of the top), installed the air tube from above after unplugging two connectors for access and was able to install the plug & cable from above.

Real pain of a job — BTW I used a ¼" socket on the star socket stud. I also learned some more watching this video. The original alternator overcharged and baked the battery and messed up the wipers, they won't turn off.

mach
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man, wish mine was this easy, after 160 000 km (roughly 100k miles) the blown oil pan gasket and leaky power steering line really had made a mess of things...hardest job ive ever done, did it solo without a lift and took me 10 hours with broken bolts and nuts that needed extracting.

darylstricker
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Did this job a few months ago and boy was it a PITA!! Whoever came up with the genius idea of putting a alternator on the bottom of a engine should be slapped with a alternator in the head.
Still better saving the money doing it yourself though.
Took myself and a friend about 5 1/2 hrs to do this, it really helps to have a extra set of hands when doing this.
Good luck to whoever tackles this job.

Allextinct
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This is a total PITA job.

What I don't understand is why they didn't option for a standard 15 mm longer bolt for the top mount vs the stud/nut configuration they went with.  Seems like one of those 'special tool' things they try to use to scare the normal DIY person away and get more work into the dealership.  That along with the location of this thing...what were the engineers thinking?!?!  Seriously...if you're putting a snorkel on to either protect the back from the hot air from the manifold or the 'elements' themselves, then obviously there's a design issue.  OK.../RANT off.

Thanks for the information...your video was the only one on here that showed the snorkel and gave any information about the reverse-torx stud.  I guess they added it (snorkel) to the later models due to early failures.

Doofly
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This instructional video is great if you're starting at step 9 👌🏽

JonathanRodriguez-fcsc
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Yeah mine was frozen but she broke free after a few hrs. Sounded like a gun shot went off. Got the wife back on the road. Thanks for the vid.

Eberger
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Anyone in Oregon that could help my friends mom with this job? A car dealer sold her this lemon and she's raising her granddaughter by herself. I'm in Florida and would be indebted to you forever

shawnwithee
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May I ask how did u get the top stud out?? Like what tools or tactics do u recommend cause this is day 2 of removal cause of the axle

brendonevans
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Me and my friend fought this thing to get it out and I'm still having electrical issues with my Escape, I dread messing with this again though

gizmoman
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Hmm.... thinking I'll send it in!

johnheigl
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I give you a thumbs up for the detail. Saw other posts and videos that didn't remove that much that, for a non professional, is a lot (i'm experienced enough).
However, use a fixed camera or have someone else shoot, while you work. The camera movements and quick shift from one part to another, is REALLY distracting and annoying. Get a broad LED light panel to light up the area and remove shadows.

dennisk
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Can you give me a list of the tools that you required for this?

brianelnakib
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Those genius car designers are not using their common sense.

michaelguilas
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My sister needs the wire from alternator to the battery on 05 escape. Can you show what it looks like, maybe a part number

dianagardner
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After you get the plastic bullshit removed you have the one stud on the top of the alternator to remove / When you gain access to the the top stud and nut for the alternator loosen (just loosen )the 15mm nut first than use a 1/4" twelve point socket or a 12 point box end wrench to remove the stud ( if it is not frozen into place ) I think ford uses a E2 or an E4 external torx for there assembly / you have to do this or the alternator will not come off while still in the engine compartment this stud has to be removed first.If you have removed your Axle it should come out the bottom / If have removed your exhaust manifold and removed the wiring harness it should come out the top .

georgeniemi
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at 1.42 is that a loose socket at the 11 oclock position

jamesboyd
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The nut on that reverse torx was it. Hard to remove? That nut and stud is the only thing keeping me from removing this damn thing? Its the job from hell

Eberger
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This applies only for the 4 wheel drive escape right? I have the rear wheel only drive and I hope removing the alternator is easier??

henrykn
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How long did it take to do this whole thing ?

mikecarmona
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Quick question if you could answer this. I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L car and having issues with it running. When I check the voltage on my car battery when the car is running it is overcharging the battery. It sometimes can get up to 18 Volts. I was wondering with your knowledge of voltage if you could provide any advice for what may be causing this. I replaced the battery with a brand new one and I'm still having this overcharge issue which in turn is making my car run very poorly and my electronics in my car turn on and off. I also just replaced my alternator last year and I did pull it off to bench test it and it passed. I was wondering if you think the PCM could be the potential cause of all this or something else? Any advice would greatly be appreciative. Nice video by the way I learned a few things from it.

michaelyoungmusic