1998 Camry LE 2.2 5S-FE High Idle Quick Fix

preview_player
Показать описание
This is a quick $10 fix for those who are experiencing high idle problems with the 5S-FE 2.2 4 cyl in many Toyota products. Directions follow in this description.

Check your engine coolant temperature sensor before checking any other parts! It's an easy check, is inexpensive to replace, and takes a single 19 MM wrench and a few minutes.

Directions:
Warm up the car to operating temperature, shut it off, locate your coolant temperature sensor (green plug on the harness) and unplug the sensor. Re-start the engine, and it should idle normally, around 850 RPM. If this happens, don't touch anything else! Replace your sensor, and you're back to normal.

When you replace the sensor, use a 19 MM wrench. Have the new sensor within arm's reach. Break torque on the senor, and back it off until it can be loosened by hand. Unscrew the sensor by hand the rest of the way. When it comes loose, put a finger over the hole in the manifold to prevent coolant loss. Set aside the old sensor, pick up the new one, and thread the new sensor in, being careful to minimize coolant loss. Tighten enough to ensure a good seal and prevent loosening in the future - do not overtighten! Plug the harness back in, and start the car. Your idle should return to its normal range, approximately 850 RPM.
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

Thank you for this great solution. I had cleaned my throttle body and the ignition air control valve and still the car quit at stop lights. I was ready to take it to a mechanic and pay through the nose. Part was $17.50 but instantly fixed the problem. Cost was $25.00 including the wrench! Who knows how much I would have been hosed if I hadn't came across your video.

winwithfinn
Автор

that was my issue! Thank you sir for this extremely helpful and informative video! 2 years attempting to fix my Camry, now

MisDixie
Автор

Your solution works I went through other videos didn't work but yours answered the problem I found your Solution was correct saved me lots of dollars

rjtecellc
Автор

This video might have just saved my ass. I've been trying to hunt down the cause of my high/bouncing idle on my '88 MR2. I've replaced vacuum lines, cleaned the throttle body and IACV, adjusted the TPS, bled the coolant several times, installed some new gaskets, and more with no luck. I heard about the coolant sensor being a potential issue, but ignored it at first becasue I had no idea where to locate it on my car. Went to inspect it just now and the conductor end has completely disintegrated. Unplugging the sensor brought my idle down to 900 from 1200 before (but with a CEL of course). Anyway, I am excited that it may just be a $12 sensor for me to finally get this annoying issue resolved. Thank you so much for this really quick and concise video. Wish I had seen this earlier... as it seems idle issues like this exist on basically all Toyota models from the 80s-00s.

krudmuphinstudioz
Автор

I work on all my cars, I have a 90 corvette zr1 and a 96 corolla, I’ve been to hell and back trying to fix this problem, you showed me how to fix it in 5 minutes lol thabkyou

jrides
Автор

Thank you this worked for me 99 Camry LE 2.2 thought I'd mention on install usually sensor doesn't come with gasket can thread tape it, and when installing do not tighten with tool there's a threshold you will break sensor if you try to wrench tighten can get seated with just your hand,
Hopefully this continues to hold up so far a godsend also order online parts are 2 to 3 times as much at store

johnspencer
Автор

Great tip Thank you..Just unplugged and ran well again..I'm off to the parts store..Thanks again

bennyca
Автор

Yes! I have this issue in my 89 Camry.. I bought it this way but noticed the former user unplugged the idle air control valve...and I get high rpm anytime I plug it back. Am going to replace my water blah blah blah sensor ...lol

tinibijeff
Автор

watching this 2022. this really helped and saved me a lot of time and money

Satch
Автор

Nice job. Great to know I'm going to try it.

davea
Автор

For both water temperature sending units, I remember having a hard time getting the thermostat to read accurately, so I replaced both water temp senders, and even the water neck they go into, and the temp reader on the bottom of the radiator. Even after all of that, the reader kept reading high near overheat. Then, after changing the car battery, I realized the cooling fans turned on in intervals again, without the AC, and being unplugged.

Also, if a sales rep selling the temp sending reader says you can put these temp sensors straight on the water neck without a washer, ignore it, and get the washer anyway. The sensor will melt on the water neck if applied directly...

Joe_
Автор

Coolant sensor is known as the "master sensor" because when it goes bad it causes starting issues, stalling, idle issues....

myschwettyballs
Автор

These engines are like tanks, they'll run forever.

randallhupp
Автор

my manual camry would turn off while driving if I was either switching between gears or stopped at a light. happened once going 40 in a city streets, very spooky lol

changed the coolant temp sensor and it fixed the wonky idle, and no more stalls while driving (last 20k miles)

noodlefart
Автор

Very good advice. I have a 2001 model and it's literally the best running car I've ever owned

kevinbrislawn
Автор

Excellent video...exactly what i was looking for👍👍👍👍

copkhan
Автор

IAC . Going to junk yard then. Coolant temp didn't change unplugged for me. Great video.

johnargue
Автор

I’m going to attempt this on my 1999 RAV4 thank you!

OLYMPIAN_ZEUS
Автор

Mines was sticky at 358, 592 miles when I got the car from a friend cleaned the throttle body and used wd40 for the throttle cable problem solved didn't had to replace the iac

DANNYN
Автор

I've changed the coolant temp sensor and the iac (Both were bad and fixed my idle) but my check engine light won't go away with P0505 code and my idle is at 600 but i believe that is within normal range.

victorescobar