Why professional woodworkers never use stain

You been asking, and I've been stalling. But finally it's here: how to use stains and dyes like a pro. I hope this is helpful for you, friends.

I have a PATREON! If you want to support this channel and join a great community of woodworkers, you can do so here:

I got new merch!! If you want to purchase a GO MAKE A THING shirt, you can find them at the link below:

Thanks for watching! If you enjoyed this video please consider supporting my channel by subscribing and hitting that notification bell. It really helps small channels like mine.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Items I use in this video (some are affiliate links which help sponsor this content):

My Finish Mix:

Items I keep on hand in the shop:

Glue:

TotalBoat Epoxy:

Power Tools and Accessories:

Sharpening:

You can stay up to date with my work here:

[kenmurphy]

First of all, love your work. One question: What is in your finish mason jar? You just all it your finish but what is that liquid? Thanks.

[douglasyoung]

Why is everyone always hating on poplar. It takes stains beautifully and it has grain that is plenty interesting. It just takes extra time and care and preparation to get 'good' results. In fact, I've never seen a single wood species (of the non high oil content variety) that doesn't stain and have beautiful natural grain.

[wolfunger]

Great video. Please cover the the safety issues with acetone! I grew up in a fiberglass factory and learned two things: 1) Acetone burns with a nearly invisible flame, and 2) Acetone is a powerful explosive. So no sources of ignition while working with acetone.

[epgui]

Biochemist here! Not a PhD, but a MSc! I can't know this for sure, but based on what I'm seeing from the MSDS, I think it's called "Mixol" because it's alcohol-based (generally alcohols end with the suffix "-ol"), and not because it sounds like "mix-all". And alcohols would mix well with other alcohols, and usually with water as well. Makes sense that it would not mix with oils or anything hydrophobic.

[MikeAG]

Don't take any notice of the click-bait headline, folks. Pro woodworkers (cabinetmakers) DO use stain.

[Agonize]

Ok but WHY is the other stuff garbage? Simply because of it's lack of range? Is it also just poor quality?

[tddys]

I'm really glad you covered this topic! As someone that does finish work for a living, it can get deflating trying to explain to clients why it costs so much to do compared to a can of stain from the big box stores. Especially if they have an exact tone or interior design concept they want.

[SliceyAethstetic]

Stain definitely seeps into the woods pores and does not just sit ontop...

[TomasRosberg]

You can also use water based colour to stain wood and apply an oil finish afterwards. Guitars makers do this all the time, it's just a two step process. Stain, sand, stain again, burnish wait 24hs and apply the top coat (oil or water based)

[kukey]

This video is not for newbies. I'm sitting here taking notes and I'm so confused by the disorganization of this presentation and seeming contradictions! Don't use big box store products. Here i am using big box store products. Doesn't mix with mineral spirits. Here i am mixing with mineral spirits. I'm sorry, this video isn't for me.

[ApexWoodworks]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on colorants with us. Here's a few comments if I may: 1) you most certainly can topcoat a waterbased stain or dye colored piece with solvent-based topcoats, so let's clarify that point right away. Simply ensure you allow the time necessary for the colorant mixture (dye or stain) to fully cure before laying on the topcoat. 2) If you ever need to dulicate a finish, you'll wish that you had measured the individual elements (in your example, bix box paint, mineral spirits and oil-based poly, which is known in the industry as the topcoat). 3) here's a trick to help highlighting open pored woods: to highlight the open pores of woods such as the oak you cited in your example, pro finishers will first dye the entire piece with whatever colour they wish the background (i.e., the less porous wood areas) to finish off at, then lock that in with a light wash coat of thinned topcoat, followed by the dye they wish the open pore areas to be - which in most cases is a very contrasting colour. Then all of this is topcoated. 4) one important difference between analine dye and pigmented stain is the effect UV rays have on the two: the analine dye will rapidly degrade its tone unless you topcoat it with a highly-UV protecting product. Choose carefully, as not all topcoats will provide the required protection needed. 5
I hope this all helps.

[bammalife]

I was a finisher at a milling shop. We mixed all our stains ourselves. Your spot on

[rajun]

I'm making a thing and this is exactly the info I needed. _raises coffee cup and nods_

[theoldfart]

Eric, thanks very much for this intro into stains, dyes and toners. You've lifted the curtain and given me a good opening to start experimenting.
- bonus for anyone interested: I used OSB to cover the walls of my basement shop, because it's cheap and interesting looking. My cabinet tops are all shellacked MDF (Zinsser/amber) and I tried that on the OSB. Wow! They complement the MDF and the effect is quite warm and pleasing. Cheap solution.

[Abmotsad]

I'm a professional wood worker. I use that kind of stain all the time. I can name a dozen others who use that kind of stain, as well.

[bluewren]

As an artist who is also a woodworker hearing that I can use oil paint to make any colour, exactly the shade I desire makes my heart sing. I have extensive experience with dyeing silk fabric and threads as well and thought this was the way to go. I wish I knew this when I was renovating my house and needed to match the colour of existing stained wood. I got close enough, but it has always bugged me that I couldn't get exactly what I was after. I'll be trying these techniques out on two new sets of doors that I need to make.

[chipsterb]

I’ve finished a couple of guitar bodies. Water based brown or black dye goes on first, then I sand it back so that the “fur” with the dye gets removed. That really pops the grain. Then alcohol dyes to get whatever look I’m going for. Finally a subtle toner gives the finish depth. It also gives me an opportunity to tweak the final color of the finish.

Use test panels and go through your entire planned finish process on each test sample. Measure and take notes. Use the color wheel to guide you in adjusting dyes to “get the red right.” (I don’t know why but getting red right on wood is a bear.)

[jmezzofante]

I watched the other video about the 5 youtube tips that professionals hate today and stain was the only one I used. So of course I had to watch this video. I done the toner method before on a guitar I was making. Everything else, I usually use stains. After watching this, I still plan on using stains. The reason is simple. I am a hobbyist and price is an issue. I use reclaimed wood or free wood I can get locally. The same goes for stains. Most of the stains I have I got for free. I do apply a finish over my stains because I want to preserve the color and finishes add to the richness of the wood. Stains are not accurate in the color but I can reapply if I want it darker. Because it is preexisting, I don't have to try to make my own color or try to match a previous batch. It is just easier. However, I will use what I learned here. I am always striving to learn more.

[garrett]

I can see this being useful to match an existing antique or something, but 9 times out of 10 for new work, the pre-mixed stain is going to be easier, more consistent, and repeatable.

[froyusfroyington]

I wish I’d found this video before I started whitewashing my cabinets