Just a thought - I've noticed that some DC clamp meters can get skewed by exposure to very strong magnets. It might be worth using a degausser on it to see what happens.
bigclivedotcom
I don't know if you have another one to do a board swap with to see if the problem follow the daughter board or stays with the mainboard and go from there.
Junkman
i've gotta say dave. You're top notch with product support. All of the meters i've purchased from you work perfectly. i want the 121gw but i have a bm869s to go with bm786.
jstro-hobbytech
demagnetize the clamp. Clamp it a few days on one phase of your home circuit.
zoom_h
I didn't notice if you tried removing the batteries, wait a few minutes and replace them and try it, or use a different set of batteries. It can be magic.
chalooter
JU8 pin 1 looks insufficient solder on front board possibly floating.
Edit: most visible at 8:08, also appears to have major solder voids on opposite side of board most visible at 9:50. I think the other side of these header pins were resoldered, motherboard side, but the daughterboard side I don't believe was touched up.
Zanthum
I didn't expect to see so many cheap trim pots in anything made by Brymen.
S_F_U_L
The missing calibration procedures etc. reminds me of We really need riggt to repair laws
YT-Observer
Did you check if the laminated clamp core has become magnetized? That can sometimes happen if the company is working with ultra high DC currents or more likely around magnetics like in large solenoids or motors. If you have a degausser might be worth a try.
WizardTim
Hey, if you have another try swap the boards one by one, to isolate the bad board, then compare both
victorrodrigues
A leaky precision amp (that AMD device?) right up there in the front end would be my guess. Try hitting it with some heat/cold and see if that dramatically changes the offset.
xjet
As you were looking at the daughter board I couldn't see any solder on one leg, of the three-leg plug that was just unsoldered from the main board. It may be soldered fine on the other side and has just not flowed through, it's visible around the other two pins though.
dohhomer
Did you try zero button in the ACA mode and did it work? If not, could be defective zero button or related circuit.
Sidman
It might "ruin" a second meter, but I would try swapping parts with another working unit just out curiosity.
Maybe the hall sensor in the clamp went "bad"?
Looks like an interesting repair video, especially since it didn't "self-heal" after opening it.
ppdan
It probably doesn't make a difference but I noticed that pin 1 of the three pin header appears to only have solder on one side. The solder didn't flow through the hole to the other side of the PCB.
kevincozens
Does this clamp meter model record peak amps reliably - I need on of those!
reedreamer
Weird, I'd be interested to know the fault. The serial number on my BM036 is very close to this one.
Petertronic
I wonder how these BM036 clamp meters work on the VFDs? On the factory floor there are hundreds of these AC motor drives to maintain. Great video, thank you.
qzorn
Great, now I've been reminded to revisit my little Uni-T to see if l can't track down its phantom voltage offset, and why its NCV went wacky. Got some good years out of it, but l liked how convenient it was
microwave
8:25 "Yeah, there's nothing obvious there, there's no solder joint issues that I can see" but in the video pin 1 of that 3-pin connector, top right, is clearly NOT soldered ... let's see how long it takes him to notice,