Welding Kinetic Sculptures - How Ivan Iler makes art move

If you saw Ivan Iler on Metal Shop Masters welding kinetic sculptures but wanted a look behind the shop doors to see how he gives his sculptures life then you are in luck. We took a trip up to see Ivan at his shop and he breaks down how he makes sculptures move. With a specialty in welding kinetic sculptures he shows us with a new sculpture how he approaches movement with the help of cams and followers to create repetitive motions.

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00:00 Introduction
00:42 Sand Casting
01:48 Giving Sculptures Movement
03:21 Using Engine Timing
04:06 Math & Measuring

[kukulcangod]

THANK YOU...DAMGED 160 IQ HERE...BRAIN INJURY DURING 2ND COLLEGE YEAR...Assaulted by 3 individuals at a club...I left them unconcious afterwards, but impulsivity, took over, became a wilder man, never lost a fight...but lost college and still felt the frustration of not being there, then working in consteuction, the inventor, the artist was supressed for decades...BUT ACADEMIC OVERCOMPLICATION, PERFECTIONISM...Have stoped great creative ideas that could get me off poverty...it took a War to finally confirm the diagnosis...I cried...it wasn't myy fault after all...
So I will be welding my kinetic sculpture ideas like you just said in here...Instead of using AI and calculations for complex movements etc...
THANK YOU FOR SHARING...NO DOUBT GENIUSES MAKES THE COMPLICATED SIMPLE AND BRAIN DAMAGED😁 ONES MAKES IT COMPLICATED...

[BruceLyeg]

I'd love to see the finished welder sculpture

[Jeanclaudevanderfield]

I know you've made automata for years, and are definetly a genius in many ways. I have made cam and cable motorized sculptures for only about 6 years now and thought I'd mention a couple things I learned in that brief time that may or may not help. One thing I've discovered is that bicycle cables are often made cheap and with a substantial load and repeated use, such as in a show, they tend to fray and break sooner than I like. Motorcycle throttle and brake cables will give you a long worry free life and added strength, even cheap or used ones. Also, your previous hand crank pieces that are so amazing, are different in one important way than one like this that will be used for a client at a public event and motorized. You can stop cranking a hand-powered piece if you see someone approach it or if someone grabs a part or puts something into it. A motorized piece doesn't see those things and doesn't stop until the cycle is complete. So a finger in a pinch point, or someone hanging onto or in the way of a moving part can mean a serious injury or could break your automation. I had my whiskey drinking pig at a premier VIP event at the World Equestrian Center. You'd think the crowd would be sensible enough to not grab a moving sculpture arm, yet one older lady that had a bit too much to drink grabbed the arm, mid-cycle and tried to hang on while her husband took a picture. Fortunately, I had the forethought to go back and add a load switch that paused the automaton until she released the arm. The driving mechanics had enough torque that it could have broken the internals. So it's a good idea to keep your client's display area in mind and try to keep pinch points and dangerous moving parts guarded in your design. I try to always keep parts closed off, or in other design make it difficult to get injured. An example is a shark I made that opens and closes it's mouth, where I made the closing Jaws not completely close. The first show, a kid put his fingers in while his mom was standing there, and that extra thought saved his fingers from getting hurt. My fish feature springs, so they can only apply so much pressure when closing instead of a solid lever closing them. Also, 60 seconds isn't a long time to run a motor, but checking the specs and maybe put a torque wrench on your main driveshaft if possible, to see if it's within the motor's capability. I've had to pull pieces back apart when I first started because I didn't do my homework and the extra heat burned the motor out. Now I get the specs, test my automata and oversize my drive motor. Using DC voltage drive motors is also a good idea inside of moving metal art. Protecting the wires is crucial, but with lower voltage DC motors, if you do have a wire fray or short to the metal, you won't get a heart-stopping 120vac jolt, and it's not going to cause pieces to be arc-welded together. Best choice is 12vdc in what I've seen, it allows you to use other 12vdc automotive/RV motors, lights, and controls. Well, that's my two cents from my own learning experiences. Keep up the awesome work, can't wait to see it finished!

[leemiller]

Cool stuff, cool guy, very inspirational... I'm heading out to my shop!

[buddylee]

I like this fella... And I LOVE what he's doing. I also REALLY enjoyed this video. But.... I'd just like to point out that, "there's more than one way to skin a cat" and "that's just not how my brain works" are precisely how we got the Common Core Math system.

[justinrhansen]

I saw this dude on a netflix metal working show.