The secret to going fast on a gravel bike (featuring DK200)

Let's discuss how to go faster on gravel, other than increasing your watts of course!

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[VelopeakBoilers]

Interesting topic. We had 6 gravel races so far and all the time guys with road bikes won. Even in recent 207 km race (at 32.2 km/h ave.). They use 32 mm road tyres, if race is shorter (80 km) some don't hesitate going down to 28 mm.
Punctures is a thing, but majority of fast guys risk - they find road bikes way much quicker than gravel.

[tobycolin]

There is a problem with a lot of gravel bikes their warranty bike and rider combination is 110kg the same as a road bike. As you need to carry more fluids, spares and food due to the type and duration of the sport it means anyone over 90kgs is out of the warranty.
The new Ridley kenzo is 9 to 10kg dependent on size, has three bottle mounts and a rider and bike all up weight ofc110kg anyone over 95kg is going to struggle to meet the weight limit
95 kg rider
1 kg helmet and shoes
3kgs water
10kg bike
Food 200
Tools and tubes 1.5kg
111.7kg
1.7kg over and. 95kg is not heavy for a middle aged adventure rider.
Great show by the way

[garyk]

When I have compared my times from road races, to gravel races of similar distance, I estimate km for km, gravel takes 20% more effort. This is only anecdotal, but it would be great to see some proper number crunching on this topic. The other point I have observed, is that it's harder to get away with riding one handed in order to fuel. This dictates weather I use bottles or hydration back pack, which dictates what pockets I can use, and where they are located on my kit. Overall, although I see the benefits of aero, staying fuelled and not falling off is more important to me

[NeilWaudby]

I'm not sure I agree with the recommendations towards skinnier tires to reduce drag. Most of the pros at these races are running somewhere around a 42. Any gains from a smaller tire can easily be lost if you have to brake more on a downhill section. Also more chance for punctures on a smaller tire will definitely slow you down. Love the video though!

[Ifindoubt_flatout]

You are god sent, even for casual riders like me. Even if you don't race you still want to go fast and your videos and calculators help a lot in making the right choices! Thank you very much! :-)

[dangeles]

I’m coming from the running world to cycling and I see the same things....people looking to improve speed while ignoring the most important thing. YOU are the engine. I saw runners spend $250 on new shoes but wouldn’t be willing to put in the serious work or willing to suffer. Same for gravel. Want to go faster, work harder and suck it up when you get uncomfortable

[PersonaNonGrata]

Agree mostly with this but when it comes to things such as wheel choice, overall bike weight, tyre choice etc it gets more complicated. The greatest speed boost is the rider knowing their bike can handle whatever abuse they throw at it over a prolonged period of time. Sure lightweight is good but if this psychologically holds a rider back on rougher terrain can have a big impact. For example having 28 spoke wheels gives me confidence wheels can take the abuse sure there maybe a aero drag compared with less spoked wheels but I’m not going to hold back which I suspect more than makes up the difference. Same goes for frame material and intended use. Are you really going to give it all when the gravel turns rough on a carbon road bike frame?

[ferree]

Agreed. Aero is hugely important where you rarely get to draft, almost always exposed, rarely going slow enough not to need it, almost always windy. I race quite a bit in Nebraska, Kansas, Colorado. The best bike out there I think is the Trek Domane SL for gravel racing. Some absorption of bumps and you can get low on it, the BB sits low, enough clearance for 38s, 18 pounds with 1x AXS and added an aero set of wheels. If I was going to do something different it would be 2x to hit the perfect cadence for the power needed by having closer gearing.

[MozOnBikes]

Hmm not sure about the tyre and wheel advice. Unless it’s mixed surfaces or super fine gravel on the race course I’d say go for a 38c overall min to help prevent punctures, leaks and burps.
Not very convinced on the aero wheels either, by the time you’ve got a tyre with a light tread like a GK-SK, the tread on the shoulder of the tyres is going to be making a right mess of the air flow and with the more bulbous shape of the tyre than current road trends. Even on rims like the new 29 internal 3T rims it’s still going to be a bulbous shape and I have my doubts the air flow would re-attach to the rim. Maybe with a 32-35c slick tyre and a wide rim I could see it, but slick tyres tend to corner poorly on gravel and you have to take it very steady. Saying that there’s not too many corners at DK. Tippy toe around the corners and aero gains on the straits possibly?!?
Either way if it were me, I’d put the cash into clothes and helmet.

[wss]

Nice to have an 11 watt saving s with aero bars but I’ll probably lose more watts through loss of pedal power in that position… need to do more base training in the aero position.

[zazugee]

i dont know why anyone will advice against using aerobar, i have a classic shaped trekking bike i use for commuting
and i put some cheap aerobars on it, why?
because of wind, when i'm on large open area, specially wide roads there is always wind, and the aerobar helps me to go fast against the wind without feeling like dying from exhaustion, specially on long commutes
on a race specially with pelotons thats another story, but in events when you end being alone, you should have the option to use them
i remember when i 1st installed them i was trying to push myself to above 40kmh, one time even 43kmh
but i know the danger, and after falling one time (unrelated to aerobar usage), i stopped going too fast during commuting
and i think it's dangerous when you use aerobar and unable to use the emergency brakes, specially inside cities
so i only use them on straight open wide roads where i can see far ahead and there is always those front facing winds
and even at 20-25kmh an aerobar helps you keeping your efforts below the lactate threshold

[DaneKromer]

Comfort = speed! Larger tires, lower pressures, more compliant frames and wheels. Unfortunately that also means heavier. So be it! Fun video, thanks

[markhagen]

Probably the most important attribute of success In gravel racing is the nut that sits on the saddle.

[justaguy]

Train and learn to ride in a group. And train!

[sapiens]

I’ve actually been looking to build a flat bar gravel bike. With mini Aero bars on the front.
I don’t see the need for drop bars on gravel bikes as your Likely to spend more time on the tops anyway

[sapiens]

I think future gravel bikes will be a flat bar bike with aero bars with a race/endurance/ relaxed geo depending on the kind of rider.
Maybe even single speed for less fuss and mechanical issues and less weight
Or even a 5 speed rear hub or something.

[lrudelsheim]

Love the content Alex, but the music has to go.

[dickmartino]

Light road bike frame might be lighter overall then for gravel.

[uomosuperfluo]

Please cut out the background music. It's painful.

[howarddavies]

Love my hunt wheels. By far the best upgrade I've ever done on my bike and for aftermarket wheels, they're bloody cheap!