The best motorbike engine oil? (Synthetic v mineral, which brand etc)︱Cross Training Enduro

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So many riders get obsessed with the beset motorbike engine oil. If I use the wrong brand will this happen? Or if I don't use a synthetic oil. Or go 10 kilometres over the oil change interval. Hopefully you'll feel more relaxed by the end of this video. A few quick notes. If you are happy to just follow the manufacturer's recommendations, this video will be irrelevant. If you like following the advice of fellow idiots, go for it. And I'm well aware of the irony here, my video is probably just contributing to our general ignorance. Or do your own research. The problem? It is almost impossible to find objective scientific research about motorbike engine oil. Much of the information comes from the oil manufacturers, and most magazines, social media influencers and riders are happy to just keep repeating what they say. The oil manufacturers love to blind us with big words and get us into oils with higher profit margins.

Marketing propaganda and media hype will always attempt to persuade you that a certain product has an advantage over another. - Bob the oil guy

Maximum performance and cost effectiveness are obtained when one looks beyond marketing claims and selects a product based on the data that supports it. - A Study of Motorcycle Oils 2nd edition Power Sports Group June 2009

Okay. Can I mix different engine oils? This is usually when you are topping up your oil but using a different brand. All the experts and tribologists agree this should not cause any problems, if both oils are within the recommendations.

Can I change from synthetic to mineral (or vice versa)? Again, the triobologists see no problems with this, as long as both are suitable for motorcycle use and within manufacturer's recommendations.

RESEARCH SOURCES

#crosstrainingenduro #motorbikeengineoil #bestmotorbikeoil
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FURTHER TIPS AND NOTES! Don't just dump oil, take it to a recycling drop off point (e.g. automotive stores)!
A bike mechanic's opinion after thousands of rebuilds... "Most engine failures are from air filter mistakes, NOT oil! Most modern 4 strokes are capable of going more hours than most riders will keep them. Most failures are not oil related unless they have been run low on oil or its never been changed. Basically clean oil is good oil." Thanks Adam!
Your choice of oil becomes more important for air cooled engines being regularly pushed hard! Check the temperature graphic, you can see a synthetic oil will last longer before breaking down.
A big thanks to Sharon, our moped stunt rider who endured three explosions for this vid. Go girl!
Alternatives to Rotella? This synthetic diesel oil is JASO rated for wet clutches, incredibly popular and great value in the USA but isn't available elsewhere. Feel like experimenting? Just get the right weight in a synthetic diesel oil and make sure it's JASO rated.

RESEARCH SOURCES & FURTHER READING

crosstrainingenduro
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My oil choice for the chain usually makes people think I'm joking...

I run olive oil in an automatic luber. Olive oil is compatible with all flavours of o-ring. It has very high oiliness which means it spreads out to form a thin film without beading. It's not sticky, so as the oiler adds fresh oil it flings off taking the dirt with it. It cleans off relatively easily. (still makes a mess though).

37000 km on the stock chain on my V-Strom. Adjusted once so far at 30000 km and no visible wear on either sprocket.

And the oiler: fish tank air hose, two fish tank valves (one for on/off, one for metering) a dozen cable ties and a plastic bottle, total cost under 10 dollars.

gasdive
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Shell Rotella T4 diesel engine oil. It's JASO MA and is available in most auto-parts stores. Plus, I like that I can change my car's oil with it too.

christiaan
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One recommendation is try and use the same oil as your riding group. Comes in handy with 2 strokes. Maybe you forgot gas and have to borrow from your buddies or need some oil at a gas stop. It has always been one less worry for my group.

dirtbikesicehockey
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My father was a fitter and turner for 40-odd years. He's always said that matching the manufacturers spec and viscosity and regular oil changes is more important than anything. I like Penrite oils - Australia Australia Australia - they sell stuff to suit my bike. And it's about $40-$50 per 4 litres cheaper than the recommended brand for my bike.

reecebiddiscombe
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Rotella mineral for about 12 years now in every thing from liter sport bikes to 450 mx and TPI’s. I’ve been riding Rekluse for the last 4 years and still no issues what so ever. I change the oil about every 30-40 hours.

DirtByk
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I had issues with a brand new bike a couple of years back which led to alot of oil analysis. Modern 4 strokes do thin the oil viscosity very quickly, some will oxidize very quickly and ep additives play a big part in how well your bike changes gears. I found the answer the most reasonable motorcycle oil changed on a regular basis. Total 4t 10w50 high perf which is a "full syn" but actually made from a mineral base stock. I change it after every ride.

vinceseyb
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I just keep it simple and use synthetic Rotella t6 in the hot desert in all my bikes. 22.00 for a gallon.

mollyandbo
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ATF in my smokers from a local farm supply, 5 gallons for under $40 USD. I use it on my suspension too. I change it often.

SANDS
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As a michanic who has rebuild thousands of motorcycle motors. Hears the deal most modern 4 strokes are capable of going more hours than most riders will keep them. Most motor failures are not oil related unless they have been run low on oil or its never been changed. Basically clean oil is good oil.

adambatchelder
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When I was younger I use to run the cheap chain saw 2t in my yz125.
Never had an issue 😁

mxdave
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Side note for Two-Stroke-Mix Oil: if you have Oil Injection (Beta, KTM TPI) use a low viscosity Mixoil (Liqui Moly Offroad Race, Motorex Crosspower, Bel Ray something). If you use an Oil thats to thick (Motul 710) the injector wont pump enough to lubricate the engine even if it fits the Jaso MD standard for injection oils.

vfischer
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I use spit, it works well in most high friction situations.

johnguilbert
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As long as you're using enough KTM Tears as additive you'll be set

TortureTestMagazine
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My 1980 Hiro 2-stroke gets ATF in the gearbox & Putoline MX5 in the pre-mix. 1200GS gets Valvoline VR1 Racing, 'cos it withstands higher temps than most so perfect for an air/oil cooled boxer that gets used off-road. The road bikes get <waves hands> 'stuff'. The strimmer gets Castrol R, because you can't go through life without that smell.

RadialHead
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Shell rotella. Been using the t6 on
my crf450r and cbr600rr. No problems so far. Saved a lot of money to.

ariesdc
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I've decided to switch to rotella, it's available anywhere, brought me 100s of thousands of miles on boats; I have trouble finding my moto oil brand, so time to switch ($15 a gal - more changes maybe).. mineral oil has never disappointed me, great topic👍

bryanreeme
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I bottle motor oil for a living and love listing to people say this oil is crap, this is the best. Knowing full well what fluid is in that bottle.

harw
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You've started on now Barry. + 1 for Shell Rotella T6. Been using it for years.

ryunruly
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i run semi synthetic lucas oil in my 160cc china pitbike. never had any problems with clutch slippage or burnt oil, i usually change my oil once it starts to get brown from clutch particles from slipping the clutch on purpose and then just throw in a liter of oil and it usually last me 40-50 hours of trail riding in 40f-80f temps with an oversized oil cooler on.

permafrost