Rock Climbing: Lead Belay

Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of the system, you need to give the leader slack as he or she climbs. In this REI Expert Advice video, we demonstrate how to get the climber to the first bolt, where to stand while you belay, how to give slack as your partner climbs and clips, and how to catch a fall.

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[AdrianWongKen]

"or they might start yelling profanities" - classic.

[johngo]

This is a great video that covers the basics really well. Anyone who wants to learn to lead Clament could benefit by watching this. Especially note at the part about spotting the leader before they clip the first bolt, a lot of new climbers forget to do this.

[dichebach]

Only two things you didn't mention: 1) you should strive to NEVER step on rope; 2) belayer should ALWAYS be alert and attentive to climber at all stages of the climb. A "watch me" call is a call to be EXTRA alert and attentive.

[torbjrnfjeld]

Threading the rope through either slot is safe, and when loaded the rope will go towards the spine of any D-shaped carabiner anyway. For a pear shaped, the load will be central.

It is purely a question of personal preference, not at all safety.

But having said that, my own personal preference happens to be clipping the carabiner with the lock away from the brake hand and the rope through the slot closest to the brake hand... to me, it feels like the rope glides better there, but it will do the job in either of the two.

[RetroRob]

So nervous to take the lead climbing course/test at my indoor gym, tomorrow. I only weigh 95lbs and I'm afraid I'm gonna get partnered up with somebody twice my weight (or even triple my weight, lol). Anybody who gets to belay for me will be in for a treat, however, cause I won't be launching anybody off the ground, lol.

[benjaminhowe]

Stick clipping the 1st bolt is a good alternative to spotting

[DarthTwilight]

When feeding or pulling slack, that rope should never, ever leave your hand for even a second. Slide up, grip, return to position.

[chad]

when a climber falls, you should hop accordingly so it evens the weight in the system resulting in a smooth catch or a fall or the climber slams into the wall

[crimsonraen]

Nice video, REI! :) Worth noting too though, that when he caught the fall at the end, he crouched down a bit.. Need to be careful with that so you don't give a hard catch, which can hurt the climber. If the climber is lighter, or same weight, you should be stepping up into the fall, not "sitting back in your harness". :)

[soapyboatman]

taking my lead test tomorrow and using this as a refresher!!!
I'm so nervous xD

[rara]

Hmm, I see a lot of sliding down the rope with the lower (securing) hand - the one that needs to always hold the rope. I believe it's considered safer to bring the upper hand down to catch the rope too, then move the lower hand further down and return the upper hand up. This way you always handle the rope tightly and it can't suddenly just slip through your fingers at a sudden fall.

[whatismyname]

how come some people are falling almost to ground when lead fall?

belayer w/ too much slack?

[sgt]

How long does it take the average person to upgrade to lead climbing from top rope - I know it varies from person to person. I put in one long training session every week and never miss my training day. Thanks.

[possummm]

What kind of knot are they closing the system with? Like on the belay side, not harness.

[asksteevs]

Belayer @ 1:20 threads wrong hole in ATC. Keep loads at the spine!

[Sharethelightnow]

Me taking the video too literal and screaming the actual word "profanities" when falling

[alexistetreault]

The spit at 3:39 is so dangerous. It's not suppose to move like that :p

[arulsaravanan]

why should your non braking side of the leg be forward and not the other way?

[josephinedouglas]

I would love to see all these REI videos reminding you to go out and find a local pro. The thought of people learning this stuff from YouTube University is terrifying.

[VRNAVYVW]

he has the rope in the left-hand belay position but belaying with his right.