How to set Saddle Fore Aft | Bike Fit Tip

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[DWMtukwila]

Wow! I started racing 33 years ago and the knee over pedal was like the first thing we looked at. We then would change the stem to match. I am now enlightened! When I coach people these days I want to see them be able to easily lift their hands off the bars without sitting up. Often I see a lot of tension in shoulders and the arms. I loved this video

[WCIIIReiniger]

I have been changing around with my saddle and stem length and this is so far the best video I found when it comes to fore and aft of your saddle. I already saw a few that recommended to check the balance, however this one precisely explains which actions indicate which problem.
I recently shortened my stem length and I will do some balance tests to see if I need to shorten it further and go back some more. Also I tilted my saddle, which is increasing the comfort but making holding the balance a bit more difficult.

[JB-ykic]

Really useful. I took the test and ended up moving my saddle 5mm back and noticed a marked improvement in comfort. Thanks for the information, clear and well-presented.

[johncarlson]

That was the absolute best, and most discriptive leson on fitting a bike that I've ever had the pleasure to see.You explained everything in very understandable detail that anybody could understand without getting to scientific and detailed, At no time at all did I feel the need to pause your video and run to dig out anything but a pencil and a measuring tape. No slide rule, no calculous. Thank you!🤙

[stuartfreedman]

I watched this video last night. Recently, I've noticed that when I took my hands off the bars and sat up (while riding a trainer), that I was in fact sliding forward. Today, before getting on the bike, I slid the saddle back 3-4mm. I had been using the plumb line from the knee method only. I immediately felt better on the bike and stayed put when I sat up with no hands. Less strain on the abs also. I felt during the session that I had a bit more power and bonus: the chronic hand numbness I've been getting was much less pronounced. Thanks. I wish I lived out there (I'm in Toronto). I would bring my bike and have you do the whole fit routine.

[sbsb]

Finally. We have a guy here who speaks sense. So thank you very much.

[brianlam]

thanks for this video. I was sliding forward slightly when doing this test, or I had to push off the handlebars a little bit. sliding my seat back about 0.5-0.75cm made a world of difference, as it was apparently set about 0.25cm forward from center of the saddle rails.

[tefltoulouse]

I agree it's a bit confusing. One minute it seems to say that you should slide forward, then says you shouldn't.... I think the best way is to go as far forward as you can whilst still being able to ride for hours and hours (however many hours you ride for) without neck or shoulder pain, or pins and needles in fingers. Or front of knee pain!. Just keep sliding saddle back until the latter stops happening. I find that that spot leaves my kneecaps about 1cm in front of KOPS. One method that works well is "can you lift both hands off the bars together, or do you need to do them one at a time?" Ideally you can lift both hands off the hoods together without a big strain. Oh and saddle needs to be level and the right height for all this to work (heels scraping pedals). Then position bars so you use all parts of them without strain.

[Altema]

I'm no bike fitter, but I am a former marathoner and do understand the bio-mechanics behind the test. The position of your body mass relative to the crank changes based on seat position. The key is having your body mass balanced against the force applied while pedaling normally. When the seat is too far forward, the force is mostly vertical, and does not apply enough rearward force to keep your body in position without your arms holding it there. This is why you move forward in the saddle with this condition. Moving the seat back relative to the crank produces more rearward force from pedaling, and balances with your body mass so your arms don't have to work to keep your position on the saddle.

John, Thank you! You have managed to approach and explain the fore/aft position with in relation to the reach of the handle bar and the healthy body position, that it all makes perfect sense! I dot have a trainer, but can't wait for the rain stop so I can confirm the above. In my case I have a 110 mm (which is really more soo a 114mm) steam, so I think I should be able to make is shorter in order to get the good body position. Thank you again! All the best from Austria. Adrian

[valik]

Just understood that I need a shorter top tube. Best help in a long time. Understand now why I feel too much weight on my hands. Thanks!

[alanjohnson]

Great info and thanks so very as I've watched it repeatedly.

[YanisHoussen-qr]

Oooh wow. So for years I've been riding with my saddle too much forward because of that BS 'knee vertical to the saddle' rule.. Everything feels better now with the saddle 1.5 cm backwards ! Thank you soo much !

[SSturges]

When your stable on the bike, you know it, that feeling of stability, smooth power transfer, control and comfort is obvious. I faffed around with my fit over the years, big set back, reach and all that. Then one day, I was going through a web site with a pro cyclist's bike, which happened to include the rider's fit and height. After digging around I came up with 10 or so riders similar to myself, then averaged up their fits, and changed the bike according... The surprise was when I got on it and rode around, it felt amazing, bit of lowered saddle, moved the saddle forward a bit and bar height. I've had it like that for 3 years and as you suggested I did the test with hands off the bars... no sliding and I can ride easily.
Doesn't work for everyone, I'm sure but my methodology worked for me...

[jimmyhor]

For those trying to get into an optimal aero position, a more forward seat position in relation to the bottom bracket opens up the hip angle and allows rider to generate more power for the same given torso angle. Often this will compromise the hands off test. Which is more important? It depends on the priorities of the rider.

[mcclausky]

I tried to understand and analyze this video but ended up very confused. It's not clear if we should move the saddle forwards or backwards. I also saw the previous test video and they mentioned you can get a "positive" result test while here they mention a "failed" test, and it seems that both positive and failed are the same? That's contradictory. What should we do if we perform the test and our hip slides forward? What should we do if we use too much abs muscles? What should we do if our cadence is notoriously increased? Thanks.

[markas]

love your videos. i got a fit earlier this year and i didnt feel like it was right so i made some adujstments and after watching your video i can tell that my sweet spot in somewhere in the middle of the 2. thank you

[Nomgoose]

I just got a new bike with very different geometry than my last one (endurance frame to race frame), and this was super helpful for me! I found I was putting too much pressure through my hands on longer rides. Turns out that dropping the saddle about 1.5 cm and then pushing it back around 7-8 cm did wonders for comfort and stability. Despite that change, it did not really change my reach too much (although I'm playing with that now that the saddle is set) because both lowering and pushing it back kept the distance to the bars relatively the same. Still need to fully dial it in, but it's way better than it had been.

[markreams]

I’ve found that moving the saddle forward a bit increases my speed and power. I ride a Giant Defy which has slightly more slack seat tube angle which would place the saddle a little farther behind the bottom bracket so moving the saddle forward a bit makes sense.

[wheeleyguy]

Hi John..Excellent tutorial...One thing I have done is I recently purchased an inexpensive set of magnetic rollers, not so much for off-season training but as an aid to monitor bike fit.I firmly believe that nothing beats an experienced bike fitter, but the ability to check one's own cycling position on the bike, without worrying about outside influences, i.e. traffic, I find invaluable.A good example would be setting up cleats on a new shoe/pedal combo, or dialing in a new saddle...Once again, nothing replaces professional advice, but may simply augment it....Cheers!!