Mercedes-Benz SL - Water entry at bottom of the rear window | R230

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A customer complains that water is entering the trunk.
To determine the cause, first question the customer extensively.
Where are the visibly wet areas and what could be causing the leak?
The cause could be leaky seals, for example.
Have your initial investigations been unsuccessful?
If so, you will need to perform some tests, some of which are a bit wet!
First start with a dry test in the vicinity of the rear window:
Look for any visible defects which could be responsible for the leak.
You must thoroughly check the area of the rear window.
This allows you to determine whether the seals are leaky or ...
... whether the C-pillar drain channels are clogged and the water can no longer drain off properly.
If you do not find any problems in the dry test, you will have to investigate further.
You must ensure that the vehicle is completely dry before the rain test.
Lay out some sponge cloths in the trunk.
This allows you to see where any water enters the trunk.
Then perform the first rain test: The simulated rain shower should last 5 minutes.
Have any leaks become apparent during this time?
If not, the rain test is continued for another 20 minutes.
The rain shower should always be directed at the area of the rear window you are checking.
After the rain test, completely dry off the vehicle using a cloth.
This prevents any water residue from inadvertently running into the area of the trunk lid.
Back in the workshop, the problem has still not been identified.
Open the trunk lid to find signs of leakage.
Ensure that no water runs back into the trunk lid area.
This could send you off track.
Now inspect the area covered by the sponge cloths with a light probe.
The initial signs of a leak are visible on the cloths.
The water moves along the following path:
It runs along the channels on the rear window frame ...
...and comes out at the ends of the seal.
Touching the rear window seal clearly shows where the water is escaping.
The leak is caused by loose or missing butyl or adhesive tape ...
... under the seal on the rear window. You have found the cause of the leak.
The vehicle must now be prepared for changing the seal.
Move the trunk lid to the intermediate position.
Then release the trunk lid using an emergency key and put it up.
Put the blue protective cover in place and you can then start changing the seal.
First remove the four nuts from the rear window frame.
Then remove the old seal from the rear window.
Use a lump of leftover sealant to remove the butyl residues before continuing.
Remove any drops of water remaining from the rain test using a drying pistol.
This allows the new sealant to adhere to the surface better.
Applying the cleaning agent Terostat to the rear window frame using a cloth.
After you have applied the cleaning agent, always allow for a flash-off time of approx. 1 minute.
After an adequate flash-off time, prepare the new seal with butyl.
First, roughen the seal.
Use commercially available abrasive paper to roughen the rubber seal.
This provides better adhesion for the primer and the butyl.
Then clean the seal using Terostat. Again, allow for an adequate flash-off time.
In addition, ensure that the smooth side of the seal does not come into contact with the Terostat.
The Terostat could otherwise damage the protective lacquer of the seal.
Apply the primer to the clean, roughened surface using a cotton wool applicator.
Warning! The primer is highly irritating to mucous membranes!
Observe the relevant work clothing regulations and ensure you are adequately protected!
After the primer is applied, the primered surface must be aired out for at least 10 minutes.
Once the primered surface has aired out sufficiently, two new butyl cords are applied.
One butyl cord of 12 mm width and one of 6 mm width.
You must not touch the butyl cords with your fingers ...
... after removing the protective film from the bottom. This could cause the butyl to lose its sealing properties.
First apply the 12 mm-wide butyl cord to the seal.
Do not remove the upper protective film just yet.
After applying the cord, fold over the corners of the upper protective film.
The entire strip of film is removed after installation using the protruding ends of the film.
Next, apply the 6 mm-wide butyl so that it overlaps the end of the 12 mm-wide butyl.
Again, make sure you do not touch the butyl cord.
After you have applied the butyl, firmly press it against the seal using a piece of the protective film.
Fit the new seal back on to the rear window frame.
Press the seal on firmly. Reinstall everything in the reverse order.
The replacement seal should be pressed on firmly to ensure that the sealant is properly seated.
Close the roof once you have finished reinstallation.
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My 2003 Mercedes Benz SL55 AMG has this exact issue. I will definitely be replacing this seal. Thank you for posting this video.

deltonharris
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The strip you use where can I buy that cheers and how you spell it I need the 6 mm and the 12mm

Jpcars
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Drains clogged for sure !!! Had that problem

beeferbeefer
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Thank you for posting this video!!! 😊😊😊

SteveRogers
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At nearly 200 bucks per hour labor costs at MB dealer, that could get expensive!

islandknight
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Where do I get the parts for it in Philadelphia PA USA

samkalasheh