UNCUT: Nicolas Pelorson - No kpote only (8C/V15)

Nico doing the 3rd ascent of Barefoot Charles's No kpote only, proposing a downgrade from 9A to 8C due to different betas used with climbing shoes.

[jon-williammurphy]

Possibly a world record.. for most allez's said in 4 seconds

[muscularibuprofen]

Ah yes, the infamous Allez machine gun

[oaxacenio]

I don't care about the grade controversies. This line has sick moves and I love seeing the different betas

[TheMarkvq]

no doubt these guys can do hard boulders.
Adam Ondra mentioned that the grade is given based on the easiest way to do the route. Charles did it barefoot and he thinks is v17. if someone now comes in and completes the boulder using an easier beta, then the route is downgraded.

[mikerks]

Was waiting for him just casually jumping down from the boulder like Charles did after sending it.

[tallasianguy]

About a grade per year at this point. I can't wait till I can send in 2030.

[rochoddo]

It's getting downgraded cause shoes make all the beta different. Mostly the heelhook allow to reach to a further hold so they can avoid the nasty 2 finger crimp. Nico said Charles beta is probably 9a, even if it's the wrong one.

[TiberiousTheLabrador]

How many people complaining about the grading could do any single move on this boulder?

[sunburstjb]

Savage downgrade but one that needed to happen. Sick movements and incredible heel hooking! Nice!

[jasonsheppard]

Downgraded but at the same time making it look harder than Charles did

[buckrogers]

I don't get all the BS about "Oh Charles did it barefoot so it's a 9A for him". So if someone decides to only use one arm on a problem do they get to have their own grading system for it and it is "aid" to do the problem with two arms? Sure it is amazing that he did it barefoot but that should not affect the grade if someone does it with shoes. The problem is what it is, whether you use two arms or one or shoes or no shoes.

[BrunoAxhausen]

at 00:25 my shoulder exploded.

damn nice work!

[Garbaz]

Given the different beta, it's only fair for the given grades to differ. Sure the route overall gets a downgrade, but this doesn't really reflect onto Charles in any way.

I propose to introduce the C-Scale to grade boulder when climbed barefooted :D

[maxgorelick]

Nice work. Now get over to Finland and try Burden of Dreams. It needs a second ascent ASAP

[gordonneverdies]

I put my volume all the way up after the first few seconds of silence... Bad idea:(

[varela]

My dream is to one day be in a mellow video

[Rdenver]

If i topped this id camp on top of that boulder for a week. Good Job Nicolas!

[Frivia]

very happy with the downgrade, still insane its been done barefoot tho

[Ja_youtube_Ja]

Why not try it barefoot??? Why? To confirm the grade proposed by the 1st ascenter, you have to do it exactly the same way the 1st ascender did it.

[jiannanmen]

He could not ascend from where he descent?