I made my Burromax faster than a Surron! (Fardriver Install How-To)

Here it is. The video we've all been waiting for. Spent the weekend installing a Fardriver 72300 into the Burromax. The bike is running beautifully, AND, all of the stock functions still work! Currently topping out at 48mph, but i've left some performance on the table for the sake of lower motor temps.

Video timestamps:

Below is a list of the parts used:

Overall the install is pretty simple if you've wired a Fardriver before.

The tricky part here was getting the headlight, taillight, brake light, horn, etc working. The most important piece of the puzzle is the "main" wiring harness off the stock controller. This is the insulated harness containing a dozen or so thin wires of various colors. Match up the colors the way I did on the video and you'll be in good shape.

As a quick reference, here are the wire's from the "main" harness and where they go:

Green to Yellow wire from the taillight (this is the brake signal wire)
Brown to Red wire from the taillight (this is the what turns on the taillight when you hit the light switch)
Pink to Thick Green wire from the horn (plug the horn's ground wire into the "ground splitter" we made)
Orange to Ignition splitter (this is the splitter that we connected to the thick orange wire that comes off the keyswitch wiring)
Brown to Red wire from the taillight (this is the "always on" wire)

The rest of the wires are not being used at this time.

To wire the display/speedometer:

Red to Positive splitter (this is the splitter that we connected to the thick orange wire that comes off the keyswitch wiring
Black to Ground splitter
Yellow to Purple wire from the fardriver harness (This is the analog speed wire. You'll have to switch the display to "phase line speed measurement" mode)

Display settings in the Fardriver app are as follows:

Speed Pulses: 3
SpdPulseNum: 10460
SpeedoMeter: 2-
AnalogSpeedCoeff: 100000RP
CAN: None
CAN Detect: 150ms
CAN Baud: 0=250K
TorqueCoeff: 748
Step: 1-0.9ms
Stop: 2-124ms
Special Frame: 3

The rest of the display settings can stay at default until you get to the wheel width/ratio. Those should look like:
WheelWidth: 120
WheelRatio: 70
WheelR: 10
GearRatio: 6

Play around with these, every bike will be a little different, but this will get you in the right ballpark.

[JonnyDuzzit]

Best upgrade ever! I did one about a year ago, posted in the FB group.

[burngotbeats]

48Mph is pretty good they need a Burromax upgrade with that speed.

[nogasdash]

Solid upgrade bro!! Fardriver ALWAYS for the win!!!

[furbaby]

Nice bike dude. I just got one a couple days ago. Its fun and torquey but I want to make it faster. Subscribed!

[ericstock]

Great videos! How did you get rid of the deceleration crunchy noise on FarDriver settings?
I’m also doing the Magura upgrades. Make it stop!

[rlenoxIII]

That’s a nice upgrade. I have to keep this video save for when I get mine. How much better is the 1600 over the 1000?

[feoyz]

i’m running fardriver with 70 amps it wheelies no problem !

[hbvemdc]

Dude this is awesome! I’m commenting before finishing the video but do you know the battery continuous amps and then the max Amps? I have a spare Votol em100 controller and stuff and seriously thinking about putting it in my 1600. All I need to know is battery specs. Cheers 🍻

[knowEgo]

Thanks for the upload - I just ordered a Fardriver for my Super73. Would you recommend that speedometer? I need a small speedometer on my bike I’ll only run something small. If possible please do a video on how to install the speedometer to the Fardriver and any other information regarding- would be much appreciated. Congrats on the smooth build

[arceecorso]

Hi there where can I buy a far driver ?

[bj]

Nice! How many phase amps are you pushing?

[mycryptolife]

How did u adjust to mph and get speedometer accurate?

[Txvjerry]

Can you drop the link for the controller

[zentechnician]

Ok, when we add a bigger controller we typically up size our power wires sir. You may be ok though. Obviously it works but it could work better. Less resistance equals better efficiency, so more speed and range. Check if your wires are getting hot. Warm is ok, hot would indicate higher resistance. If you have a thermal camera that is obviously a great way to check your connections. The little cell phone attached thermal cans are real cheap now. You have a channel I bet you could hit up Topdon or Infraray and get one for free.

So you made a perfectly good back up controller a doorstop for several inches of wire in it. Just order some wire next time. That's just wasteful. I know you wasted money on those giant waterproof connectors but still.

So you messed up the wiring and still posted the footage of it? People have really short attention span. I'm writing you a couple of short paragraphs and you are probably thinking that's a lot right? See what I'm saying. Just a little blurb on the screen, a little text overlay or whatever would have been nice.

Your power wires and your phase wires need to be sized properly for the amount of amperage you are using. Wire ampacity, it's a real thing. You don't have to buy bigger wires, though they do look better, you can supplement with smaller wires. Try to keep the lengths as close as you can to your current wires. Yes electricity takes the path of least resistance but it also goes wherever it can. Electricity is biased towards the path of least resistance. Real copper wires are about 30% more efficient than copper clad aluminum ones which are prolific in these Chinese controllers.

You could burn out your motor or you could add a sensor since your new controller actually supports that sir. Use the motor in another project rather than murder it which I'm going to tell you these controllers can easily do. The warning for not having a temp sensor is turned on from the factory. That is a hint and half for you right there. What typically happens is the heat creeos up the phase wires from the motor and then insulation on the wires melts and then your controller is in dead short across your phases. The phases are all connected together anyway so that's normal but what isn't normal is usually just one is getting the high side output at a time. This can end very badly for your controller that is supposedly protected as well. You might want to not be so casual about killing a motor. It may be wise to place a little less faith in the quality assurance of these devices. I've had to repair these Fardrivers right out of the fancy box. Cheap wires. Though I own some of these controllers I am not impressed with the quality of them. But you can get a 680 delivered for under $200 so there's that. They are of course very optimistic with their numbers. lol