Toyota Center Support Bearing

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Thanks guy! helped me in reassembly. Just replaced mine on the side of the road, not too bad. The bearing nut is 133lbs, back off 1 full turn, then 60lbs, so says the FSM, but gave it about 68 lbs after setting the bearing. And then staked the nut.

BriansLegitEdits
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Dude your channel has been amazing for fixing things on my Tundra! Every time I search what's going on with my truck I seem to find one of your videos.

kings
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A word to the wise - Mark your driveshaft before taking it apart to maintain the BALANCE of the shaft!

richataman
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Very helpful...one important thing I noticed was when you reattached the splined yoke to the front driveshaft section and then bolted the double cardan joint flange to it, the u-joint loops on the cardan joint flange need to line up with the front u-joint loops on the front driveshaft or it creates an out of phase condition and possible vibration. Just reattach the splined yoke in the proper alignment. You can see this at 24:14 in your video. Thanx for the video.

stevenkeno
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Good job on your tundra, less vibration is always a good thing. I bought a cheaper bearing for my 2wd Tacoma and it lasted maybe a year and half. Now I got a better timken brand, hopefully it will be better.

L-Noble.YT_Hi.Res-Soundminds
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Mine a 2005 2-wheel drive SR5. Only 124, 000 miles, but squeak squeak squeak. I’ve been afraid to take it to Toyota in fear of labor rate sticker shock. Thanks for this, I think I can do this.

melodymakermark
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Excellent instructions Other Guy . About to do this on a 90 xtracab Toyota. Looks similar and I may be able to drop the rear only as suggested at the end of vid.

mikesnyder
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KOYO was the oem manufacturer for my 06 wheel bearings. They didn’t last very long at all. Replaced them with Timken and they ended up being re-boxed KOYO.

whatfreedom
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Mark your drive shaft joints first and remember to "stake" that nut before you reassemble the carrier bearing so the nut doesn't walk off the bolt!

anthonygasparini
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just had to replace mine on my tacoma and the center ujoint. had to replace the other two ujoints the following weekend. just replace all 4 while you have the driveshaft out. you'll thank yourself later, i promise.
when these start going (probably in a year..way she goes) i'll just be ordering a new one-piece drive shaft with sealed ujoints. barely more than an OEM 2-piece, and less stuff to replace when the time comes.

snottrrocket
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Dear friends, it has been a year since the Replacement of the OEM unit. The aftermarket unit is failing. Please don't buy aftermarket carrier bearing. I am buying a OEM OEM bearing unit. Will be making another video announcing this.

theotherguy
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Awesome video man...gave me the confidence to try this myself on our 85 Toyota Pickup (which is also our home). Wish me luck!

TheHoneyTrek
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"I'm not gunna tell you the torque spec because I'm gunna use this 250lb impact gun instead"

FenixDown
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The first U joint flange you took off looked really loose. You should mention to check all U joints for play and possible replacement. You marked the 2 ends of the driveshaft but didn't mark the center splined flange. Should have mentioned lining the shaft with your marks. Since the holes that bolt the center bearing to frame are slotted, do you have to adjust how it sits or just hope that it lines up correctly. Just suggestions for novice mechanics. Keep on truckin'...

dkaupp
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I replaced my control arm and lower and up ball joints and tie rod ends with after market parts hope they last me thank you for the great videos

o-oj
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I recently did mine at 470, 000km, used a Timken branded part, seems good so far

NorthernEXpeditions
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Ironically, I just greased my 2003 Tacoma original universal joints yesterday. The universals and the center support bearing have no play in them. The rubber in the support bearing still looks like new! My truck has 192, 000 miles and this is the first time I greased them.

-old-Forthischet
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Don't have to remove the drive shafts, just the carrier bearing and it will come apart enough to replace

Mkbary
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Excellent video brother. Thank you for the clear explanations.

wangofree
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Doorman seems like a cheaper brand, even with a koyo inner. Might want to go.with the dealer or greaseable timken brand bearing.

At this time you may also wanna service that double cardigan and have the entire shaft rebalanced at a shaft shop since you may have lost a weight during wheeling. Great video as always

somemedic