Acoustic Guitar Bridge Reglue | Epoxy Method + Plywood Tops

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55 years time tested method! My friend and mentor who started his guitar tech career working for Dan Armstrong in 1969 has been using this epoxy method for decades. I have a couple of my own spins on it here using tools I prefer to use.

Best method for guaranteeing the bridge will never come off again. Great for plywood tops, cedar tops, and other difficult woods.

Don't listen to the haters and traditionalists. If you don't want the bridge coming off again, this is the way to go! Most recent success was on a $10,000 New World Guitar by Hill Luthierie. Cedar top where two (yes, two!) traditional bridge reglues failed. Twice! At a professional authorized dealer who did a perfect job! Wasn't his fault. He didn't know about this method!

Materials:
7 mil (or slightly thicker) Mylar Film
Masking Tape
Xacto Knife
Margin Trowel (ground down to have a thin blade)
Dremel with Stewmac Precision Router Base
Amana Tool 4223-S Router Bit
Inspection Mirror
Stewmac Bridge Clamps
Zap water thin CA glue
Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy
Teflon Electric Drill + 3/16" Drill Bit Tapered Reamer
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1:08 Be aware: The grain in the wood on the top of your guitar does not run perfectly parallel. It will always be at an angle, and since the top is made of 2 pieces of wood "mirrored" together the grain runs the opposite way on both halves. When popping the bridge off go in the direction where you are running across the top of the grain and not into the ends of the grain. This will minimize damage to the guitar and reduce the possibility of creating a split that will carry through the coating beyond the bridge. That is bad.

1:45 Bench top belt sander.

2:24 An example of what happens when you don't observe my first statement. From the 4" mark on the scale to the end of the bridge's footprint the wood was torn apart. Use the tool you use to remove the bridge from the back of the bridge (the edge away from the soundhole) on this half of the top and from the front of the bridge on the other half. Your tool will slide *over* the grain instead of digging into it. That will have to be cut away in order to ensure the bridge makes complete contact wit the top. It won't bond lifted like that.

2:53 Alternate: Mix up a paste of fine wood dust and aliphatic resin (wood) glue _as you are gluing the bridge back on_ . Fill the voids in the wood with the paste and glue the bridge on straightaway. The "paste" will serve three purposes; to allow the glue to dry before Jesus comes back, to fill the gaps and maximize the bond and to ensure the whole bridge still makes contact with the top. Glue the bridge on heavy and use toothpicks, q-tips and a wet kleenex (soft) to clean up the squeezeout after you clamp and while it's still wet.
We try to avoid using what I generically call 'space age adhesives' (cyanoacrylates, epoxy, etc.) unless as a last resort because basic wood glue *bonds* two pieces of wood together. Epoxies and superglues by nature work by creating a layer between the bridge and the top of the guitar to hold them together and it affects the tonality of the guitar.

3:31 A #11 X-acto blade works well too. Cross hatch against the grain. You don't want to just dig trenches in the bridge-you want that adhesive to seep into the wood to create that bond.

tbd-
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Thanks for putting up this video. I have a fender 12 string that I glued on twice and it pulled off both times. The epoxy was the trick. This video was very helpful. Most people aren’t going to spend top $ getting a cost effective guitar repaired. I used this in the nature that it was intended. Thanks for your help.

halejt
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Often you can heat the bridge with a hair dryer to soften the glue to prevent tear out of the soundboard. Most older glues respond well to this.

CretvMG
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I need the same done to my guitar. Funny enough, the exact same guitar you're fixing up here in this video. I've had mine for a good 12 years and I love the sound she makes.

davidwalker
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You got my subscription on this, just what I needed to fix my Montaya guitar a found in years back thrown away by someone who thought it was trash since the chord bridge came apart, I am happ to follow your instructions and fix it, I might like the sound of this simple looking guitar and who knows, right a few hit songs with it. I write most of my songs with my Washburn just because I like the tropical sound that resonates with my creative spirit.

mokenistic
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I just discovered your channel. I can't believe how much easier the trowel is than the putty knife I have used for years. I just went out this morning and bought one, cut it down and it worked great on a guitar I was really having trouble getting the bridge off.

bartmitcham
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3:00 in so much excitement and joy.. what would it cost to pay someone to do this by the time I buy all the tools and clamps..mine has some bellying up too on the top.

goffdroid
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You made that look so easy. I have been struggling to learn so went for lessons as I didn't want to give up and the 1st thing he notices was the bridge was rising up which I totally missed. Your video should help me fix this problem over the weekend.. Thanks

vancraft_chronicles
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Awesome. I'm in the middle of doing a bridge reglue and your video was very informative. I really got a lot from it. Thank You! 👍 After the bridge I'll be tackling the frets for some reason a handful of the frets on the acoustic are loose you can tap on them and hear them clicking by bit loose enough to pull them out with your fingers or even w putty knife. So i might just attempt to replace them unless there's a better way to get them secured and tight.

chargert
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Great video. At 4:30 are you using just 1-tips and paper towels or there is any solvent or producto on them? I´m going to use this procedure but I´m only not sure how cleaning the excess of epoxy once clamps are on.

carlosprex
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If I may add something to this...applying heat to the bridge with a clothes iron, soldering iron or a hair dryer will simplify things greatly by softening up the glue before you start. Then, as @tbd-1 pointed out, go with the grain with a putty knife or spatula in very small movements all around the bridge to lift it off cleanly without taking wood with it.

Use an Exacto knife or a razor blade to get off any residual glue as well as finish, if needed, from the bridge area of the top and use 400 grit sandpaper to finish and smooth it out. And this goes without saying, but NEVER EVER use super glue or any other strong type of adhesive; epoxy and hide glue might even be too much. The best stuff to use is original Titebond wood glue, and you don't have to dilute it at all as you would with in replacing the nut, for example. Using super glue or strong adhesives is a recipe for disaster and a lot of unnecessary and time consuming work if this ever has to be done again for some reason.

chuckpotockimusic
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Had my Tanglewood 17 years.. I recently went to play and noticed the bridge was sticking up... I'm distraught. That guitar has always been there for me, through the good and bad. It was one of the only possessions I brought with me when I moved to the US in 2016. I was hoping it would be an easy fix but I don't think I'm capable. Hopefully I can find a good repair shop.

DeimosPC
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Nice work nice song thank you for showing me the shortcut with the router to level the top, ZAIC's guitar repair🎉

chriszaic
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3:05 - Are you saying that titebond or woodglue is not suitable if the guitar is plywood?

johnodonnell
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Can I ask why you didn't heat the bridge first? Would that have helped with the tear out?

czgunner
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Love your videos, thank you very much. I have a clarifying question. I have a customer with a 1966 Gibson LG1 and he insist on hide glue. Would you use CA glue first then hide glue or skip the super glue. Thanks!

scottg
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The heat is a great suggestion. I can't help but think letting the materials respond once the wedge has been applied could be beneficial. What do I know? This is so beautifully done no one could deny the expertise applied in the process.

Spitfireseven
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If you remove the finish will this create space between the wood and the bridge and how would you fill this space? I have also tried Polyenyl Acetate glue with Super Glue, though it look firmly adhesive but the bridge start to lift again.

ahhimary
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Hello, great video. I have an old Kay parlor guitar. The bridge was bolted down on top of the guitar's finish with no glue. It has lifted up and I have removed the bridge. I want to glue it down and re-bolt it. Is there a glue that will bond the wood bridge to the guitar's glossy finish, or should I remove the finish (fairly thick)? thanks for your help.

mdritch
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This was great. Unfortunately, i have a bridge where the wood is cracked underneath. Can i still do this? I dont care about the appearance at all.

egehanyoldas
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