Hemi 5.7 MDS delete, Lessons Learned

I recently installed the Hemi 5.7 MDS delete kit, and ran into some issues. These are the steps I took to resolve the issues, and get the motor running.

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[Ottonic]

That's crazy to go through all of that to disable MDS... Like a lot of things, Chrysler should have given the owner the option to disable MDS with a simple switch.

[rodpalmer]

Thank you for posting this video. I did a MDS delete due to a damaged cam and after fitting the kit, I had problems getting her to run. Very rough running and unable to idle. I thought that I must’ve had a bad vacuum leak, so I removed the intake manifold and double checked that the individual intake gaskets hadn’t dislodged from their position.
I then remembered viewing you video several months ago when I was doing some research. I couldn’t remember the conclusion so looked back through my history and found it. So glad I did as I followed your course and compression tested each cylinder. Low and behold, number one had zero compression. Long story short, my 5.7 is an a JK Wrangler and the fit is fairly tight, that tight, due to AC lines, the only way to remove the rocker cover is by removing the alternator, power steer pump and radiator and sliding the cover forward and out. So when I installed the pushrods, I hadn’t seated one in the lifter, causing my issue. But due to your video, you saved me time and a lot of aggravation and assisted me in sorting it out. Many thanks again.🍺

[brandonmacisaac]

Thanks for the trouble shooting tips man. It’s always nice when people show the real world problems you run into when taking on these kinds of projects. It’s never self explanatory. Lol. I have a 2014 ram 1500. I found that it’s the pushrods not seating properly on the intake side, so they slip out of the seat once the engine rotated over. Luckily I manually turned the engine over and found that the #3 cylinder pushrod slipped out so no harm no foul, but I definitely would have had the same idoling issue if I tried running it. Thanks again for the post! Really helped me to avoid those pitfalls before I started.

[MightyWhiteofYou]

I have an Aspen with the 5.7, and have 260k on it; I rebuilt it looking for the lifter/ cam issue, and all the parts inside looked practically new. Just wanted to let everyone know that this is the easiest motor I’ve ever worked on. I will drive this until it rusts into the ground. Motor is a beast. What other suv can tow 8000 pounds

[winstonwright]

Don't feel bad. Due to the way the lifters and pushrods lay almost horizontal, they almost NEVER want to stay in the cups and where they are supposed to during assembly. 95% of the time when a hemi of that type is put together and everything was fine but now it won't run.... its what you ran into. And the back cylinders are the usual culprits because it's hard to see, like you said. Your advice was also spot on. I compression test every motor once the valve train is assembled to double check for just that. About a quarter of the time when I first crank it... I'll hear a loud "TINK" as one of the pushrods slips either INto or OUT of the cup. Lol.

[re]

Thanks! A lot of good info here. I will also add/reinforce: The problem is, the engine oil may get old without you realizing, and then... Change the engine oil no more than 4k, regardless of "oil life" reading. Also be mindful of the operating hours as this will further break the oil on a "low mile" service interval if it has mostly idling. Consider 200 hours to be the limit here. Use premium oil and filters. Do this and your Hemi's lifters/cam will last well past 200k, regardless of when it was built. The sooner you are able to do this, the better. This is even MORE important on a higher mileage engine, which will require even shorter oil change intervals as the rate of oil contamination increases.

[The_Future_isnt_so_Bright]

I just completed a 2009 VCT 5.7 VCT delete and added a distributor drive gear to a 2006 timing chain set to drive A GM distributor. Installed the older now modified chain set, a GM distributor with ford 4.2 v6 drive gears and had to fix the lifters. If you take out the bad lifters ( ones with loose rollers, not locked up) and press out the roller pin, you'll notice part of the pin is worn down but the roller and needles are fine....usually. Find some GM 3.8L series 2 v6 roller lifters and press the pins out of them to replace the bad ones on the hemi. Im a cheap ass and find a way around shelling out $400+ on lifters, Ford 3.0L V6 OHV roller lifters have the same pins. If needles are damaged, swap out the pin and rollers as well, they fit the hemi lifters. Sub merge lifter in oil and pump them up before install, this will prevent bending pushrods, and they are also different lengths so watch out.

[chadhester]

Thank you for taking the time to share that information I have considered purchasing a modern hemi truck but intend to delete the MDS right away before any issues arise.

[jlrockafella]

Cheapest way to avoid this on a 5.7 hemi is to replace the mds solenoids with new ones and then use a tuner to disable it on the system. That way you don't need to change anything. I suggest replacing the mds solenoids so you don't risk lifter failure in the future.

[dfangm]

I've done this also on a 2010 ram 1500 5.7, to remove the mds solenoids cut a small piece of 2x4 or whatever small scrap wood you have and place the end on the top of the solenoid and lightly tap the opposite end of the wood with a hammer, the solenoids will then turn and slide out super easy with absolutely no damage!

[alexgrindnshine]

Good job man! All part of wrench. Keeping it simple and going back to basic is always the smart place to start.

[d_manoil]

Reignite youtube videos really stresses about how hard it is to get the push rod in the rockers. Great video, thank you.

[tontos]

I'm about to do this same job on my 2010 Ram 1500, I thought I just had a simple exhaust leak because I had broken bolts on my exhaust manifold. But nope, my Hemi has the tick. So I will be sure to ensure my timing sprocket is at the 12 with #1 being at TDC, and to ensure my push rods are seated all the way. All good info to have when doing this job yourself

[davidsias]

Yeah and you went about it the right way to you didn't have to take a bunch of unnecessary s*** off good job diagnosing

[jeffgordon]

It was helpful. 2nd time I've seen the exact same problem . I will know to make sure the push rods are seated properly. Especially that area.

[robertt]

Good video. Well done. Congrats on the repair.

[kingturk]

This bloke a true MOPAR lover even his moustache is the letter M for MOPAR

[dominic]

I have a 2016 Challenger 5.7 with 40 k miles with no hemi tick runs great. My 2005 Chrysler 300 5.7 has 180 k runs perfect no hemi tick. My 2006 Ram 1500 with 5.7 has 280 k no hemi tick runs perfect. Truck works hard and it idles a lot. One winter when it had alternator issues i left it idle between trips for 4 days until the parts came in.
I dont baby this trick at all, no warmups, pulling trailer alot daily driver etc.
I am pretty strict on 3-4 thousand mile oil changes with the Challenger and 300. The ram i seldom change oil as its just a beater.
My biggest question is why does my 300 get solid 21 mpg and the ram struggle to get 12. The weight is within a couple hundred pounds and i drive the Ram much easier just because of

Great video i may some day do the delete on the Challenger

[sebastianm.]

You don't need to remove the oil pan to remove the oil pump. After unscrewing the pump, just turn it and unscrew the pickup tube. Just be careful that the screw and the O-ring do not fall into the oil pan. This is also described in the service manual for this engine.

[OurOutdoorLifeDannyLorraine]

Thanks man for the tips, greatly appreciated, looking forward to seeing more..