Darkroom Printing Pt5 - Split Toning 101

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In today's video I look at basic split toning 101 and specifically toning the print with sepia and selenium.

I talk about the do's and don'ts of split toning with sepia and selenium and see how to make our own sepia toners.

John
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I love the look of split toning. Have you ever used copper toner to spit tone using selenium or sepia? I also want to thank you for all of your videos. I have made several of your film developers as well as the Fixers you've outline in your videos. It's brought a new life and enjoyment to the photography process.

ChristopherKovacswanm
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Great video
Helps a lot, thank you so much buddy❤

zawawa
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This video brings me back when I used to tone my prints with the selenium. I used to work as a Graphic Reproduction Artist and I used to use ferricyanide everyday, bleaching halftone dots down to remover colour casts in the Repro process. No one told us to use gloves 😲

andrewfindlayphoto
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Greetings John, from NW Wisconsin, USA. I just received Tim Rudman's book which I purchased on eBay. Thankyou for your recommendation. I am impressed with this book. Cheers.

brad
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A lengthy process to be sure but absolutely worthwhile.

bluzizalright
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Dear John, would you consider making an episode on how to deal with the chemicals after use. Most of them will be harmful to go through the sink, in the old days you could bring some to your photoshop for silver recovery but guess this is no longer the case. It is holding me back to restart developing my own film again (as a start, I have not been in a darkroom in 25 years)

jph
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This is really a great class, I've been looking for it for a long time, thank you very much. The results are amazing, I'm going to try as soon as my darkroom will be ready.
Really amazing!

jacopotassinari
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What I find most interesting is how the split grade print looks "meh" compared to the split toned one, yet it looked fantastic compared to the first one with no adjustments. Seems post processing is probably more important than whatever happens in the camera to begin with. Would be interested to see how extensive post processing could potentially save a poorly shot or composed negative.

TheCrimsonFlash
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Once again I have learned something new from you. I have never considered spit toning before.
On another note: Have you done much work with paper negative? Maybe it could be a future subject.
Thanks

gabrielresendes
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Hi, very much enjoy your videos. They are becoming a go-to in this area for me. Just a question about your video which I couldn't easily find the answer to on Google - what is cooking a print? Thank you,

peterkingsman
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Very interesting; thanks for sharing ! Just wondering if this will work as well with RC Papers ?

klickanalog
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Do you ned to fix after sepia? I did a test with selenium first, then sepia. When I tried to fix, the paper got really dark and yellow and dingy, with spots appearing across the print. I did not do as thorough washing as you did. Any idea what happened?

scotthanberg
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Hey John, This explains to me how to get more detail in the shadows without seriously effecting the highlights. Very Interesting and an excellent job of explaining. So, do I have this right? One can push the shoulder of the curve out with this technique and chop off the foot by "Flashing", resulting in a shortened curve, increasing detail in the highlites and a toning to flatten the shadow part of the curve. Does that make any sense to you? Glad to see you healthy!!!

grampadoug
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How long does the working sepia solution last?

spencerelias
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Hi John thanks for your Chanel very informative, Bath A Metol 6.5g Sodium sulphite 80g Water to 1 liter
Bath B Sodium metaborate 12g Water to 1 liter (To make the metaborate use 8.4g borax and 1.8g sodium hydroxide l have liquid Pyro how can you convert the above measurements to liquid Pyro many thanks

johnberry
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