Building a new C64 Power Supply

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The device was designed by S.M.D., the files and documentation are available for download so you can build your own.

The Bahar 150*70*170mm enclosure I used is available from Amazon (affiliate links)*:

The plug I used is a Hirschmann MAS 70 S (7 pin round DIN)*:

TIME STAMPS:
0:00 Introduction
1:35 Mission Objectives
4:21 The Components
4:42 Sponsor Message
6:46 Populating the PCB
10:04 Setting the Cutout Voltage
14:32 The Case
23:00 Designing and Connecting Panels
37:02 Calculating the Mains Fuse
39:04 Checking Voltages & Connecting the DIN Plug
48:26 Testing with a real C64

This video was sponsored by PCBWay.

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Thanks for watching!

* Stuff marked with "*" contains affiliate links. You don't pay anything extra and I get a little commission from everything you buy through the links (even if you buy something different there).

#JanBeta #Commodore64 #Powersupply #PCBWay
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A big plus of a DIY PSU is that you can throw in a fan inside the case for extra cooling; thumbs up!

alerey
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Nice Video, The only thing I would have done is before mounting the transformer would have put a sheet of plastic under it like they do in ATX power supply, because of the 230 volt main so closes to the bottom of the case.

davidgeltz
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I like to salvage IEC power connectors from ATX PSUs just for projects like this one.

pvc
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Great tip about using heatshrink tubing to measure voltages on the DIN connector pins!

gregdunlap
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You may use a drill bit to remove the unused pads cleanly.

JendaLinda
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You should put a star washer between the grounding wire and the case. The washer will break the paint to make a better contact.
You may reuse the yellow-green wire for a ground on the low voltage side. Just put a piece of blue heat shrink tubing over it.

JendaLinda
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The two resistors that set the main voltage and overprotection voltage should have been potentiometers. This way you could have easily dialed in the correct settings.

ericpaul
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FWIW in Australia under AS3000 you can use the PE conductor for whatever you want so long as you sheath the visible parts so it doesn't LOOK like PE ;)

SomeMorganSomewhere
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if your heat shrink shrinks down when soldering, you can stretch it back out with a pick or small screwdriver (be careful not to tear it). It will re-shrink again when you heat it.

timpsensky
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PERFECT TIMING!! i watch your whole collection of videos currently. So good.. I learn a lot from you

retronexusnet
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Firstly, I'm not that enamored by the PCB rectifier board. Really that circuit should have multi-turn potentiometers to set both the main voltage and overprotection voltage. I know that a lot of us here in the UK will stick a ring (say, 5mm) of red, black, or blue piece of heat-shrink on a misused Earth (PE) wire just as an indicator. Speaking of Earth wires, they really should be the longest of the three live inputs and secured with a star washer. Also, I'd personally like to have more clearance between the bottom of the boards and the metal case and/or some insulator.

The heat-shrink around the DIN plug pins is bloody genius! Thanks for that idea!

Your videos are great, Jan. Please keep 'em coming!

SteveTeeIridium-Plus
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When I solder a DIN plug I always dremel at bit off the shafts of the plug so that you can insert the wires more easily. They become more cup shaped like with serial ports. Works like a charm! I made a video about it a while back.

ctrlaltdude
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Nice one Jan I like the project with the following observations.
Technically you should not use a glass fuse on mains side as they have limited rupture capacity.
The if the transformer pins are closer than 3.2mm to the case you should really fit an insulating sheet.
You said the voltage was low @41.55 due to cable losses, you have no cable losses as you have no load.
The heat sink you put on the bridge reciifier was wasting your money and a waste of time.
The problem using those crimp pins on the DIN connector is they will break easily if the cable is bent over as the thin cable clamp will not stop the movement.
The C64 saver, you need to find a better compensated voltage reference.

FireballXL
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Great build. One upgrade I might do is to put a voltage monitor on the front of the case. The case you used would be perfect for it.

mrgigabytes
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The Kid had Perfect acting skills! She will be a star in the future. Nice power supply! Love how you construct your cases.

flymario
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*facepalm* that heat shrink tubing trick is ofc so obvious that I have never thought of it. Thanks for changing my life ;)

Jermungand
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Just put a shrink tube over the yellow/green wire so it doesn't suggest it's PE anymore.

tuomollo
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Colour always matters! And red goes faster...

EkDoreo
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When making power supplies like this, rather than matrix board I tend to use the perforated board that has no copper on it, and use ~26 swg tinned copper wire to wire up things, it means that you have no worries about tracking or having to remove lots of pads. It is getting harder to find these days but large stockists still carry it. If you wish to secure components temporarily until you have soldered them in you can always use hot glue or superglue.

IanSlothieRolfe
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Try the Neutrik din plugs, nice big solder buckets and very nicely made.

arcadesy