Refrigerator Compressor Voltage Testing

This video provides information on how to test the voltage in a refrigerator's compressor. If the compressor is not working properly, it may not be receiving proper voltage.

Other commonly replaced refrigerator parts are:

Defrost thermostat
Damper control assembly
Thermistor
Temperature control board
Main control board

Click here to purchase the multimeter used in this part testing video:

How to disassemble your refrigerator:

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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands:
Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, KitchenAid, LG, Maytag, Samsung, Whirlpool

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[Globaltecbrasil]

Muito bom seu jeito de consertar os equipamentos 👏🏽👏🏽

[applianceflipper]

What if you have a low reading nowhere near 120 volts like 3.5 volts?

[MARKOYENIYI]

Hi, I have a Curry refrigerator, Just recently I noticed the light inside the fridge is not as bright as before and I didn't hear any humming sound to signify the engine is running. So I unplugged it for some hours and plugged it back in, the light eas bright and the humming sound started, then after 40 mins the humming sound shut off and there was a click sound, some minutes after I heard another clicking sound and the humming started again but winded down like engine shutting down, this repeater after some minutes, click sound then humming and shut down.
What could be the issue?
thanks

[thesetruths]

Howdy. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay?
Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top.
Start relay
P/N: WPW10448874,
aka W10448874.

Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129

Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay.
Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay.
With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug.
The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing.
The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side.

Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet.

Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See YouTube video...
Results:
Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm.
Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm.
Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm.
None of the pins are shorted to ground.

My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot.

Do you think it's the combination relay? Thanks much!

[sepehrfadaei]

My refrigerator (Samsung RS277ACRS/XAA-0000) stopped working after a power outage.

The ohm readings on the compressor are:
C-S: 0.4 ohm
C-R: 3.4 ohm

I was wondering if such a low reading on the start winding is normal for this model.

The Start Relay (thermistor, DA35-00135A) was not showing continuity (R = 1300 ohms), so I replaced it. The new one couldn't start the compressor either. When I test the new one, it also does not have continuity (R = 4000 ohms). I do no know if I got a bad start relay, or my compressor is bad, and the by pulling too much current burns the start relays.

The overload protector has continuity, and seems to be fine.