I regretted my laser purchase. Until I upgraded.

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Not so long ago, I regretted purchasing my diode laser. Yet somehow, less than 3 months later, I upgraded to a Co2 desktop laser. What gives!? There are so many challenges with getting into laser engraving, especially with an entry lever diode laser. But having a Co2 laser cutter has so many advantages! In this video I’ll break down the advantages and drawbacks of Co2 vs diode lasers, compare costs, and answer the question: which type of laser should you get? Diode or Co2? Plus, I’ll talk about my ventilation set up and the xTool smoke purifier.

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►Chapters
0:00 Why upgrade?
1:18 Diode vs. Co2 lasers
2:00 Cost comparison
4:31 Advantages of Co2 laser
15:03 Drawbacks of Co2 lasers
16:42 Fume extractor
18:20 Bottom line: should you get a diode or Co2 laser?
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Actually for the price of the P2 for another $2000 you can look into a full blown 80 - 100 W Co2 laser, floor model water cooled with a much larger bed and self contained. Depends on what you want to do. P2 is still a hobby craft unit the xtra $2000 gets you a full blown very fast production unit. I use a Rabbit 100W floor model Co2 at work all self contained, runs 24/7, It's only issue like all Co2 units is you must keep the lens properly clean. Even this won't cut metal though.

johnkemas
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As someone just getting started, this was exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you!!

vhslostandfound
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You have dirty cuts from your diode laser for the same reason your honey comb is getting so filthy, you need a 'down draft'. Down draft is a 'must' because your respirator doesn't protect your skin. Lasers don't burn, they 'oblate' by impacting an area w/concentrated photons, the byproduct of the friction is heat. You need the compressed air to clear our the debris but the consequences of this are tiny atomized particles that coat everything, skin, clothes, walls, if you can smell it, then it's on your skin. Long term exposure, speaking from experience, you will develop contact dermatitis to things that are considered 'harmless/safe'... I ran a Kern HSE utilizing a 150watt Coherent Diamond series laser for over 10 years w/the best down draft/compressed air setup US tax dollars could buy. At the end of the day, you could smell the 'stink' from whatever I had been cutting even w/the best ventilation on the planet. We didn't know, Kern didn't know, it's thanks to the DIY community that we now understand the hidden dangers that are completely manageable. Wear long sleeves when possible, minimize skin exposure and shower/rinse exposed skin sooner than later. I still laser daily, love the hobby/profession and miss my Kern :D.

adf
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Diode lasers and CO2 lasers each have their place. Low power diode lasers have a smaller focal point, and that enables them to produce higher resolution engravings. However, as noted in this video, diode lasers have limitations when working with clear acrylic and glass.

FYI - Safety glass(es) for lasers offers protection only for specific wavelengths. If you work with different lasers, then you need to ensure the safety glass(es) you select is/are appropriate for the wavelength(s) of your laser(s). This may require purchasing different sets of glass(es).

gaiustacitus
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A lot of the advantages that you confer to the P2, are not a function of it being a CO2 laser, but its actual design.


Not all CO2 lasers have autofocus or a built in camera.


Some CO2 laser cutters also use honeycomb beds and get messed up the same as diode lasers.


Not all CO2 laser cutters have integrated air assist pumps or water coolers.


Even with its integrated cooler, the P2 needs topping up with coolant before use, so it is not ready to go out of the box.


Judging by the amount of smoke present in the enclosure, while cutting, the included exhaust fan is inadequate. With a beefier setup, there should be hardly any smoke inside, and very little smell if vented outside.


CO2 lasers use a number of mirrors to direct the beam to the cutting head. These will eventually get dirty, and require cleaning, which then necessitates realignment. Also, the laser tube will degrade, and need replacing. Whilst this is also true of diode lasers, the replacement process seems a lot simpler with the latter.


Disclaimer: I have not used diode lasers, but prior to retiring I did use and maintain CO2 laser cutters as part of my job.


Comparing a fully enclosed and integrated 55W CO2 laser cutter with an open frame 20W diode laser is somewhat disingenuous. A fairer comparison would have been with Xtool S1.

stevesteve-eizu
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A delightfully respectful, clear and comprehensive comparison. Thanks very much!

LewHarriman
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Thanks for this comparison. I was thinking about a diode laser but now I'll wait until I can afford a CO2 laser. I want to cut and engrave acrylic.

Also the bottom of the CO2 doesn't get as dirty because all the gunk is carried with the smoke and since there is a gap beneath the ribs and the bottom it gets carried out the exhaust.

markabernard
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This is great, thank you. Im in the middle if "making it work" with my diode laser. Works for what I need, but boy, a CO2 would be great.

rodanvsandrew
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Wow! Wish I had seen this a few months ago. They ship this assembled?$ I’ve spent so much time assembling, repairing (waiting on a new motherboard now)… and just the insecurity that comes with assembling and learning all the things you outlined and more. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to do this. I gotta sell more stuff with my old one first, but gotta do the upgrade the co2… until then, super envious!!

SaltyPineCreations
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When using foam degreaser on single sided objects (like stove, oven and oven glass etc):
1. Spray the foam and set clingfilm/plastic wrap on top of the foam. Let it soak for 30-60min and wipe it off. No more scrubbing!

For grills/honeycombs:
1. Lay a clingfilm on table that is two times + 20cm larger what the cleaned area is.
2. Spray the degreaser foam on top of the clingfilm.
3. Put the object on the foam and spray some more until all cleaned areas are unvisible.
4. Make it airtight and seal the package by wrapping it up by turning the rest of the clingfilm on top of the object. Turn it upside down after 15-30min and wait another 15-30min (depends how hurry you are in).

Remember to avoid breathing the fumes and use mask/use good ventilated space when unwrapping

For the laser cutting device, I'd probably buy a growing tent (150x150x200cm costs around $150, smaller ones are cheaper)

stuffinfinland
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Thanks so much for your videos on both the diode laser and the CO2 laser. Very clear, very concise...and ultimatelt very helpful!

mikemcg
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Good review. Would add some tips/comments:
- The diode laser's honeycomb - you have it on a flat surface and that is why you're having so much char at the bottom... A honeycomb structure is usually used (besides holding small pieces) so that the air is sucked from below and out of the enclosure. Basically, you're burning wood... and if the smoke cannot escape (now it can't as there is no space between the honeycomb and your bottom plate) then the charring will occur.

- too small exhaust on the CO2 is a joke... it should accommodate at least as big exhaust as your diode laser enclosure. Apparently, they traded this important function for "looking good"... It does look good & especially thin, but that you have to wear a mask speaks a lot... For me, this is a design flaw.


- for me best cleaner after testing proved to be "car break degreaser", nothing else comes even close... Car shops have them and they aren't expensive.

davidlazar
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You make the best videos. I learned a ton from this one.

marktalku
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Great Video. I recently purchased the Xtool S1 40 Watt diode laser. I am still learning how to use it. As far as for cutting out things, I will use my cnc router which I do know how to use. Thanks again, I do enjoy your videos.

wallystoolshed
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This is a fantastic summary that aligned with my weeks of research and decision making. Thanks

nehagadodia
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If your in a warm climate you will need a chiller.
CO2 tubes like to run about 18c. More temp and they will shorten the life.
I am in tropical Australia.

marcwolf
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Great video, Marie. I never realised how little charring a CO2 laser makes compared to a diode one. Mind-blowing!
My wife and I bought the 20W D1 Pro during the last black friday sales. We got a deal too good to pass and ended up with a rotary too. Even with building an enclosure, getting a honeycomb, buying an air assist pump, and adding venting it cost us just over AU$2000.
I'm still impressed with our little diode and all the things we can make with it, but cleaning it is a bit frustrating at times and the internal cable management was horrendous straight out of the box. I would love to get a CO2 laser at some point and am considering xTool as I feel XCS is powerful enough for our purposes.
I still love our diode laser though and will most likely keep it if we do upgrade, for the purpose of using it for engraving only.

matthysloedolff
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Thank you for the comparison! I will definitely purchase acrylic templates. Have been nervous to purchase the wooden ones with fear of breaking.

jasonhalstead
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Great review! Thanks a lot - now I know the drawbacks of a diode laser! My theory that diode laser is way less energetic and so it doesn't instantly vaporize the material, but slowly heats it up, releasing wood gas and glue that holds plywood together, and that's what ending up on the honeycomb and bottom tray.

Second thing about filtration - if the filter considerably reduces amount of fumes, maybe you should pipe the filter outlet outside through the window? If it doesn't have output flange, you could probably make one out of plywood.

x_phl
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Wow, the diode laser gets really messy! Indeed, I would hate maintaining it. I can see one advantage to the diode laser though: since I have a 4ft x 4ft cnc, I could put a diode laser on that and be able to work on a project much larger than 26 x 14 inch, at a much lower price than a co2 of that size. And I would get a 44W diode laser, which would be faster than the diode one you’re comparing. But seeing that mess, oh man! It’s a huge bummer, indeed.

MStoica
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