Myths of RV Lithium Batteries. Fact or Myth

Today we are looking at Lithium batteries for RVing and the many things we hear about LiFePO4 and diving in to see if what is said is true or myth. Just how amazing are Lithium batteries for RVing. House Batteries in RVs today are needed to do more and provide power in substantial ways with inverter boondocking setups getting larger as more people are RVing without a generator. Lithium batteries are a big part for many RVers for how they like to camp. Here are the batteries we use.

Here is our Amazon page for our favorite gear. We will be adding more products as we find more products we use and love. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

Membership link

[CMWobby]

Everything you have stated is absolutely right. I’ve just fitted a lithium 200 amp to my Motorhome and it’s way outperforming the previous lead acid battery.

[emeraldmorningmist]

Also for charging Battleborn lithium: I think you can fast charge them up to about 80% but then charging rates slow after 80% is charged. Thanks for the video.

[ambikesandboards]

Finally a non biased knowledge video not trying to sell a specific brand
. Thank you

[davidfoppe]

Thank you. You cleared up a lot of fuzzy areas for me.

[mattclary]

If anyone has found a decent website for the RV lithium/solar TAX controversy please post it! Great video, Jared.

[robertploss]

Hi Jarad. Regarding cold temps, its important to note the specs referenced refer to INSIDE battery temp, not ambient temp. Much different given batteries generate heat during use and if combined with an insulated compartment, an easy addition for RV applications, will not be a concern for RV's. The myths about cold temps originated with Battery Electric Vehicals (BEV's) and solar storage sheds. However these applications have a fix that applies equally for RV'ers that are away from their RV for extended cold periods: Internally heated batteries (for battleborn the model number has an "H" at the end) is integrated into the BMS and insures However even these applications have a fix for this: heated batteries. The heater uses 1 amp per 100AH - in case we have to dispell that myth as well. At -30F with 8 hours of run time I experience a combined power loss of 8%.

[kdyou]

This is a very informative video. There are a few more differences between LiFEPO4 and SLA batteries. The LiFEPO4 batteries maintain a voltage much closer to their fully charged voltage under load and until they reach 90-100% of their capacity. There are companies that make automatic cutoff switches for SLA batteries to prevent them from dropping below 11.5 volts or so and thus preventing dropping the batteries below 50% of their capacities. The battery management system on LiFEPO4 batteries will protect the battery against under voltage, over voltage, and excessive current draw. My particular use is not related to RVs, but I was able to install a 20AH LiFEPO4 battery where my 34AH SLA would not fit, and would still provide a longer runtime than the SLA.

[ralphfeatherstone]

Nice to hear a vloger who speach is free of "ums" & "ahs" during his presentation. Thanks.

[brucefay]

VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) batteries, also known as “maintenance free” batteries are “wet cell” batteries with a special cap that combines gases internally, turning them back into water and keeping them in the battery. The still need to be installed upright and should be in a vented compartment. AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries are also lead-acid chemistry but they not wet cell batteries and can be installed in any orientation. In general, they do not need to be installed in a vented compartment.

[BreatherBoy]

One guy with GSD, Outdoors RV tt, 510 watts solar, 4 battleborns, Victron inverter, battery controller and monitor. Installed myself...luv it...

[kriskath]

I was about to remove and buy again, a lead/acid deep cell battery for our boon docking camping at Lake Superior. Instead I did my homework and went for the Battleborn 100. I am amazed! I did need to buy a specific type charger that did not go into the
anti sulfation mode. I got one that actually connects to my Bluetooth on my iphone so I can monitor the initial charge. WE put the new battery in with a charge of 13.9 volts. After 7 days of camping, shower pump event, lights on....and radio and only one half hour of heater on we were still topped off at 13.1volts! I was happily shocked. We have gone thru 3 traditional deep cell batteries since 2018. So getting this was a bit of $ but will pay off over the years ahead. 10 year warranty? Cant beat that! We will solar recharge as needed. So far..no need. :). Controller in the 90w solar panel is compatible with the battery. The RV controller is not. Nor is hooking up to shore power without a proper controller. are off grid, so not an issue. Great explanations about "myth" and this product.

[daveduncan]

Good video. Myth 4, lithium (LFP) charges 5x faster than lead is truer than you make out. It's a little more complicated than just what you presented. Remember, lead should be fully recharged every cycle to prevent sulfation. lead batteries typically charge in three phases, bulk (0.2C in your example), absorption (about half of that, or 0.1C) and float (which barely puts any amps into the battery). LFP can be charged at 0.5C until it is done, and doesn't need to float--and doesn't sulfate, so you don't need to fully recharge every day.


So, during the bulk phase, LFP isn't 5x faster than lead. But during the absorption and float phases, it is 5x faster--or even much more when lead is in the float phase. Lead batteries don't always need the bulk phase (unless you have deeply discharged them), but they always need the absorption and float stages to stay healthy.


Let's say I get up in the morning and the forecast is for rain. I know my solar won't be able to fully recharge my lead batteries. I'll need to run a generator and refill them to protect them from sulfation. I only used about 10% of the 100ah battery overnight, so I'm starting out charging in the absorption phase at 0.1C for an hour and I really should keep the float voltage on them for a while after that.


With a 100ah LFP, I run the generator (with a 50amp charger) for 12 minutes, and they are full. Better yet, I say, I'm only going to use 20-30% today and another 10% overnight, and that will only take me down to 50%, at most, which is fine. The forecast for tomorrow is sunny and my solar panels will have no problem refilling the battery from 50% SOC to full, so I'm not going to run the generator at all today.


So not only is LFP often (usually?) 5x faster to charge than lead, there are many scenarios where it is much more than 5x faster to recharge--and it may save me from having to run the generator at all in a lot of circumstances.

[brianbiggar]

LIFePO4 cost comparison is more complicated than simply saying they are higher up front vs AGM or LA. To me the value for Rvers and especially full time Rvers is the weight savings. Cost is secondary (JMHO). You still have only so much cargo carrying capacity for your RV and eating it up with heavy AGM batteries or other LA batteries can be a serious compromise to the lifestyle when one still needs food, clothing and other gear essential for the lifestyle. MInd you, it really depends on your rig's capabilities. For some it may not be an issue at all, on others and predominantly larger trailers with larger volumes and less capable axles than they should have this becomes a really balancing act where it come to your cargo allowance.

Your statements are true enough but to fully evaluate the cost issue one has to take into account other factors depending on how diligent the buyer is. One can go buy a BB for about a $1000 or ~$500 for SLA equivalent (200AH @12v at 50% usable) Ball park numbers for demonstration only. Yes the BB will last much longer than the SLA. But if one invests the $500 saved by going SLA at 8% and uses the SLAs properly (not discharging the battery past 50% then over a span of 15 years the compare is much more equal since you will have enough saved for roughly two replacements of the original SLA batteries. True there is still plenty of capacity on the original BBs after 15 year of use again assuming the BBs were not abused. There is another part of the calculation not being taken into account... time actually using them. Many full time RVers simply tire of the "life" and get off the road after 5 -10 years. If this is you, then forking out big bucks for lithium may not be for you especially if you do not boondock enough to justify the cost and if you are not fully committed to the lifestyle. Factors to consider before leaping into Lithium batteries. Don't get me wrong there is a place for lithium, and we are doing it because of the weight savings... we prefer to carry more of our stuff and less battery weigh makes that possible. YMMV as they say.

[jacktyler]

Good data, Jared. I do feel even objective Lithium-related videos ignore a principal issue: The vast majority of all RVs have been and are being built with vented battery compartments. And one of the popular RV trends these days is the "4 Season" package, allowing one to extend RV use deep into the shoulder seasons. (We've used our Lance in single digit temps F). This presents a clear conflict in one's priorities, as being unable to recharge a bank in sustained cold weather is a meaningful negative. AND this can add a 'double cost' to a Lithium conversion if they need to be rewired to an interior location while also consuming interior space otherwise used.

[ceeweedsl]

Well done! Keeping it clear and simple.

On the charging claims, the difference in effective speed of charging for the LFE should be even higher than the difference of 50ah vs 20 ah in a 100ah unit. This is because the Lead acid needs to drop to a lower absorption charging level once it hits 80%. The LFE does not. Using the lead acid to 50% discharge means that charging a "100 ah" will allow 20 amps for 60% of the top half and then the lower absorption rate for a full 40% of the usable amps. I won't do the math, but this factor will, in actual daily usage slow the lead acid charging quite a bit further behind the Lithium Iron Phosphate. 5x might be actually track people's real world experience in daily use, especially with solar.

This difference means that the same usable amps of L/A will require more solar wattage to get it charged in a day since you have to make sure you get a full .2 C asap each day to spend the rest of the day in absorption. That makes L/A more expensive due to increased panels needed.

And, on cost, there is also the factor of storage. The LFE needs no trickle charge and can sit for a long time in a parked RV. The L/A will need a trickle charger to keep it alive and I've seen that take a toll on L/A batteries. If storage is part of your RV usage, then the cost difference will open up a bit more.

Also, there is the potential damage to a battery that rarely gets to a full charge. If there is not enough charging time in any given day, not only is that a loss of usable power, but it might shorten the life of the L/A and lower the cycle life and/or the available capacity. The Lithium Iron Phosphate doesn't care and will actually last longer if not charged to 100%. But it will get there sooner if you need the capacity.

A lot of factors! You did well by keeping it simple.

[bobandtams]

Thanks for all the good words. We are looking to install more solar and switch over to lithium batteries🤔

[WILDEBILL]

Great information. Well it is hard for me to justify the cost right now as we don't do much boondocking. Also when I bought my current coach they replaced all the house batteries for me free.

[JsussLrd]

Your statements are very true about the Battle Born battery for very reliable plus very long lasting and safety too.

[MikeBaxterABC]

This is the third instructional video i watched.
I spicifically wanted to know if these modern lithium batteries would suit my application.
Answerr is NO!
If they can't be used constantly at 40 below zero .. they are usless for me.
Great info thankyou for the video! :)

[xcentriclithium]

The chemistry of the lithium you will be using will be the determining factor on temps, the safety, and yes if using lithium trinate you can fully deplete it without fear of ruining the battery. Even though you have researched Lifpo4, there are differences, and not all lithium batteries are the same.