DIY Teardrop Trailer: Top 5 Frames | Pros and Cons

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Which style of trailer frame should you choose when making your own DIY Teardrop Camp Trailer?
That's a big question that doesn't have one answer. Mark breaks down the top 5 frame styles that teardrop trailer builders use and the pros and cons of each. Mark has built/worked on teardrop trailers on all of these frames so this isn’t just your average list.

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Want to Build Your Own Teardrop Trailer?
Overland Trailer is a teardrop trailer company that started in 2007. We specialize in teardrop camper production, parts, kits, and education for DIY Teardrop Camper enthusiasts. It is our greatest joy to see our community camping in a teardrop trailer that we had a hand in helping create.

Overland Trailer assumes no liability for property damage as a result of any of the information contained in this video. All material provided within this Youtube channel is for informational, educational, and entertainment purposes only. Some processes may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Do not attempt anything in this video unless you accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.

Overland Trailer is proudly a family-owned business born in the Great Pacific Northwest of the United States and at home in the rocky mountains of North Idaho. From this base, we've guided campers in over 30 nations build their own teardrop and tiny camp trailers.

In This Video:

Mark covers the pros and cons of 5 trailer types:
1. Repurposed trailers/materials
2. Bolt-together utility trailer kits
3. Welded Utility Trailers
4. DIY Welded Custom Trailer
5. Teardrop Trailer Kit for Welding
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We're starting a series of videos on DIY teardrop trailer frames!
We'll eventually show you how to make the trailer frame that we've put in our commercial trailers since 2009.

OverlandTrailer
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Playing with Sticks Collab brought me here!! Great content!!

bdmenne
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I'm going with option 3. Building a camper "pod" with skids to slide on and off a wood decked utility trailer. On occasion, I may want to have the use of the utility trailer alone, and this gives me that option.

stacyowens
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I use old pop up campers that have been sitting and neglected. My first two where free and I gave $200 dollars for the one I'm building now. They already have a title so I strip them down to the frame and start from there. You can salvage the appliances and electrical system and save a ton of money on them. They are built with good axles andi

davidadams
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Thank you so much for the information about stainless steel hardware on my aluminum trailer. I would’ve done something just like that so that my bolts didn’t rust but actually galvanized would be fine but if they rusted and remain tight forever, that would be just fine too thank you.

Chefbriank
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This is very informative, thank you. I’ve looked at the next level up in the big box (or “tractor box”) store trailers. Rather than angle iron, they use a box style frame, and while heavier, they seem much sturdier. They also have 2x boards as a floor - I’m not sure if I’d keep those or replace with plywood, but they do make a solid foundation. I’m curious what your thoughts are on these. I’m also thinking of 5x10 instead of 5x8 to make the trailer less confining.

heiser_bill
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Hi Mark, I notice your first trailer was 10' x 5' platform, whereas now your recommended kit is 8' x 5' size. I'm inclined for the larger size. Any comments from you on the two sizes?

fentian
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You’ve convinced me to learn to weld and build my own trailer. The powder coating is a problem them though. Can I use bedliner paint or another paint alternative to get around powder coating?

ACHWeddingFilms
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Two out there things. 1) I have an engineer designed, and plans sold trailer for a 26', 2000 pound, trimaran where the only metal parts are the axle attached to angle iron on both sides, and the tow element designed to attach to a wooden frame up front. If properly designed and assuming the loads are taken off properly, you basically don't have a metal frame, the frame is the wooden box of the teardrop. This would mean that the box has to be engineered with some integrity, but that is all to the good anyway, since it means a more durable box, and possibly a lighter one. Getting the strength right isn't really an issue, massive catamarans, when they were made of wood, as some still are. Use beams like 2x2 foot, not 5 foot square. So getting the global loads carried is not a problem, and you could basically do it on the floor if one preferred. But the assembly can't just be a bunch of pockethole screws... Needs liquid joinery like the Chesapeak has, if not the complex shape.

2) A few years back in the British press there was advertising for a paint product that was supposed to solve the issues around painting metal, and provide the kind of durability we expect from top end treatments like galvanizing. Durabiltiy as in long term rustproofing. Probably not bulletproof as to abuse. Problem is, that I never herd anything else about it... But if there is something new out there, it would be great.

tacticalskiffs
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I picked up a Voyager two place watercraft trailer that has a sturdy tube steel frame. Looks like I will need to weld in a few more tubes and gussets. I am in the early stages of design. It will be a fiberglass and carbon fiber foam core box. If design doesnt work out I just bolt on bunks and sell it. Thanks for your videos!

anthonyanderson
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When I’m able I’m doing number 4 but I won’t do a tear drop. I want a modified square drop.

koalafan
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I'm building a camping trailer using the smallest HF trailer they sell. My bearings use red lithium high temp grease. All the bolts have washers and lock washers. Tires are rated to 80mph. To compensate for axle placement I've reversed the style to have the kitchen, propane tanks, solar and batteries to be in the front of the rig, not behind. Tracks great. Even my outside electrical is in conduit.

Doesitmatter
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Looking at a big box utility trailer, have you seen anyone build their teardrop ON TOP of the rail? I was thinking I could weld in some center bracing, rip out the mesh, and use the bottom portion as storage (battery box, slide out drawers, fishing gear, shovels, etc).

gibson
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You're a legend. This is exactly the info I'm looking for. Cheers.

BonesFPV
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Saw a cabinet maker use 1" Marine plywood attached to a locally welded 3 leg/fan 3" box steel tongue that reached about 5 feet under the plywood bolted through with plates inside. 13" wheels on adjustable torsion axle. Going on 10 years old now. Cross country may times.

mikemead
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HF had a recall on their bolt together trailers because the supplied tires were not DOT rated for highway use. Check for recalls and be prepared to buy new wheels if not DOT rate. Added expense along with plywood decking and other required add-ons for any project.

If I were to use one of those big box trailers, I think I would desing the teardrop to sit on top of the existing frame and bolt it down. Fill in the trailer frame with wood panels. I'm not a fan of a single tube tongue; I'd feel safter with a triangle tongue.

danburch
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I got tent trailer frame. Cut the sides off so it's narrow and lighter. What I plan to do is add electric brakes and build a camper of some sort. I want to cut all the frame apart so I'm left with two frame rails going down each side. Tied together with plywood. I had a European trailer for a while and it was huge!! And only 400kg dry with cable brake system.

jregamey
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You mention the placement of the axle and it is something I wonder about, since I see some trailers (campers) with axle to the back, some middle and some more to the front. It affects breakover and departing angles. But also weight distribution. And I don't know enough to decide what effect of different options would be. Do you have a video about this? If not, could you make one, please? Thanks for the helpful info.

GoAndStay
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I have thought of a utility trailer and build a Teardrop Pod that can go in and out and even be dropped on site in case you need trailer for whatever reason. Have you ever seen one like that?

blueridgebillclinton
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I've had an idea put together, 5454 aluminum in as long a segment as I can, 5x6 popup frame so it doesn't need too much, If I find I can use thinner aluminum and still maintain longterm strength, I'm in. Right now, I'm kind of doing this

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Each [ ] is a hollow box, I'll use long a piece as I can each time, to save on cutting and extra weight/potential danger from brackets/first time welding

The front and back extend out 2ft, the center will popup to allow a weatherproof tarp topper, 6ft of standing space! It should handle my 6ft1 self for single person comfort, any tips to lower weight for motorcycle towing would be appreciated

MrHocotateFreight