Glue in bolt example for highlines and climbing

[Dgozz]

Little tid bit for ya. When your trying to drill and the bit wont stay in one spot, switch the hammer drill to hammer only. This way the bit is just moving up and down and not spinning. This will dig a little hole for your bit to sit in. Once you establish a little notch where you are trying to drill then swich back to spin. I use these hammer drills almost on a daily basis and thats the trick i use.

[denyspoyner]

I've learned more about rocks, anchors, fail ratings, bolts vs. glue ins etc. from this channel than 20 years of rock climbing. Thanks for all your hard work, subbed !

[conchosewing]

very well made video. clean and precise. I like the idea behind placing bolts backwards, using the main axis of the bolt

[canoepick]

Still on my rewatch and I forgot how funny this outre was!

[neosky]

Nice work! I would recommend Popsicle sticks instead of Q-tips, they're flat so it's easier to scoop the glue, they don't have a bunch of fibers which could detach and mix in the glue, and they're made of wood (biodegradable). If you get the hang of it you will be able to skip the duct tape around the bolt (less effort and plastic used) by scooping the glue in a paper towel as you push the bolt in. If a bit of glue gets on the rock you can always wipe it with paper towel and cover it with dust (has to be mineral dust, organic stuff will degrade and reveal the glue over time), you won't see a thing once dry ;)

[wouter]

Very well made David and Ryan! Patiently and thoroughly explained about the process in great detail. With some very usefull advice. Thumbs up! \../😎👍🏻

[lytic]

Rad mang, thanks for the informative video! Appreciation from Australia!

[ggghggfff]

I'm 40 years old. Everyone said I would die when I was young. Don't let these dorks scare you. Live your dreams!

[shaundominick]

I think you did an amazing job. I’m not a rock climber and I’ve never bolted anything but if i were to bolt anything it would definitely be like that. Drilling that extra bit for the bottom of the eye to fit down flush into the rock was brilliant. Great vid, you could potentially save people lives with it. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

[underwaterant]

You are 100 % correct at 12.31min. Good job. Yes I know. I'm a Mechanical Engineer.

[Abeuss]

Epoxy anchoring is the same no matter what you are anchoring. Three rules:
1. make sure the hole is deep enough and wide enough to accept the anchor.
2. Make sure the hole is clean and dry.
3. Put enough epoxy in the hole to completely encase the anchor.

Tip for step 3:
Fill the hole with epoxy from the deepest part of the hole out to the shallowest. It will get air pockets otherwise that will blow most of the adhesive out of the hole when you put the anchor in, leaving voids around the bolt weakening the anchor pointing possibly to the point of failure. You do however want epoxy to run out of the hole around the bolt a little… it is just a sign that you used enough.

[finessumtimez]

I just stumbled onto these videos via watching Alex Holninns free climbing vids, and I have to say that they are very interesting to watch, ALOT of steps to take in what you guys do, and I absolutely love how responsible you guys are when putting these videos out in explaining every step & the dangers/responsibility of doing things the PROPER WAY. Because if people doing this aren't going to take the steps necessary....than they shouldn't be doing it in the first place.🤷‍♂️👍

[Chris-bgmk]

Recommend brushing the inside of the hole in between blowing the dust out. Properly sized brushes can be obtained at home Depot. Glued in bolts used a lot in foundation work.

[underwaterant]

Cleaning the hole is the most important procedure.

[ElseeKay]

i would recommend bringing a bit of fine sandpaper (glued to popsicle sticks or anything flat) to shave down the excess glue smooth.

and an extra thought i had that might very well be impractical (or unsafe!):
i'm not sure how the glue reacts to heat (if it's a two part mixed agent, then they probably activate and generate heat in their chemical bonding process) but you could consider briefly melting the top surface of the glue to get it glossy smooth, but this would probably require testing.

[WebberAerialImaging]

Not an engineer but I'd suggest turning the bolts 180 degrees from intended positioning has reduced their installed strength. I install epoxied anchorages as part of my job and would not suggest deviation from the engineering. That said, with 3 anchorages, you're probably going to have a reliable anchorage.

[GregHartSker]

Looks like you used Hilti RE500. Whilst this probably the strongest glue on the planet it is not the best suited to bolting (the exception being if the rock is perpetually wet, RE500 sets under water and bonds to wet rock). I can recommend Hilti H100 (brown colour) or Fisher's vinyl esther epoxy (light grey). Both have a grout in them that makes dealing with the glue way easier and they dont set up pink as the RE500 does. As for creating a groove for the eye - we have stopped bothering with this (climbing anchors). Creating it screws the drill bearings up completely and twisting seems to do little to lower the actual pull out strength of the bolt. (Highlining may be different).

[Kackspack]

I don’t get why you do test squirts before AND after the bolt glueing. Before is clear, to ensure a well mixed glue. But after…?

[-ax-]

You should mention being careful of not adding glue on anywhere the rope might touch because if any rock dust or sand or sharp pebbles gets on there you basically just made sandpaper

[TecraX]

9:30 - Not as long as you are clipped in properly, which I assume you guys are at all times (4:44)!