How to Create Future Home Repairs by Notching Stringers for Kickers

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Been building decks for 15 years here in Kansas and I've never once seen the bottom of the stair stringer rot out. Code requires ground contact treated lumber for deck use and we soak all our cuts in green guard.

christiangabriel
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Over concrete and ground, I've been using composite plank strips as "sole" to stringers for a few years. I'm also using a 2x as blocking in the back of the stringers that is not in contact with concrete or ground so the stairs aren't permanently attached anywhere. So far, this resists very well the Canadian climates and aren't against any of our codes. Keep up your excellent work!

simonforget
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I'm a professional carpenter for over 20 years. Is the 2x4 necessary? No, why do we use it? To help keep long stingers from sliding down. I have personally framed hundreds of stair cases. NEVER any call backs on the stairs. Can the toe of the stair break of... Yes, that's typically due to a defective in the lumber or pour handling.

If you're worried about the stringer rotting. You should be more concerned about how and why water is getting into your basement.

DIY'ing does not replace years of experience.

JakeMohl
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Wrapping the bottom of the stringer with 1/8 rubber eliminating contact with the concrete will work very nicely.

pwlwucg
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Ive been using LVLs for stringers here lately. Still use the notch with a wolmanized 2x4. The rest of the stringer contacting the concrete are basically set in a bed of NP1.
If Im using 2x12s, properly placed screws solve the break off problem experienced with the grain pattern. On outside stairs we fab the stringer out of steel for longevity

carlbrown
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1 and sometimes 2 strips of ice and water shield laid onto the heel and foot of stringer contacting the ground, .... games over. Sealed tight and 3/16 up off the Crete. Done!

gsh
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I usually put blocks between my stringers, and attach them to the concrete, I never saw the need to notch the bottom of the stringer for a 2x4 like that. You're just chipping away at your stringer, plus it's extra work. I just finished a little set of steps and a handrail today using the block method

denverscott
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I just use treated lumber. Always have on concrete. No rot, no call-backs, no issues.

Na-ifze
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I used to put a roof shingle under the shingle and I have also cut the bottom about 1/4" short then drilled a couple of hot dipped lag bolts into the bottom so moisture doesn't touch the bottom

Jackman
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I always put galvanized lag screws in the bottom and set it on concrete pad, you can always adjust the steps if the concrete pad starts to settle and the wood never sits in any water.

jamessadler
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I did mine this same way on concrete in 1997(we have been flooded from 5 hurricanes as well as several bad thunderstorm systems over that period of time) I used it to attach the stringers to the concrete to stop flexing, absolutely no rot what so ever. I also put 2 x 4's along the bottom sides of each stringer to minimize flexing. I notched the bottom edge of each stringer foe a 2 x 4 to run under all the stringers to stop sagging at the top step... I have had no problems at all... overkill, possibly...

marvinisit
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Stairs aren't built like this in the UK, but they still come into contact with concrete screed on the ground floor. We don't have any problems with stairs rotting away. Use a damp proof membrane between the stringers and the floor!!

jameswatcham
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Old timer in Burlington Vermont has thought me to use PT for stringers and 2 2x4 or 2x6 what ever we have on site.
I didn’t have any issues with yours or my teachers method. The only trick is little more math to figure out all the steps other then that it’s excellent.

Totally different subject

5 days ago I went to a new clients house to look at the job. Hip roof not properly insulated or vented. 1900s house. Fiberglass insulation for 2x6 walls have been used. Crazy

I always spray foam my attic it works like a charm. Could you please make a video and try to educate people on insulation. It’s very very important.
Thank you for all you do. I have learned few trick from your videos and I thank you.

ghshomeimprovements
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Pressure treated lumber on concrete can still rot. Best to either prime the bottom or use a sill sealer so the wood is not directly in contact with the concrete.

guytech
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Store bought stringers split or crack if you fart too loud, most are junk.

winsagin
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As carpenter of 35 years I disagree with what your saying I do enjoy everyone’s opinions this is how we all learn but I do disagree with you

paulbrennan
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Not sure what code is where you are located, but in most parts of Canada, decks are built with pressure treated lumber and the use of the anti kick out board is a code requirement.

donnicklin
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With all exterior work I use pressure treated lumber on all the frame work including the 2x12 stringers.

wurkanimal
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Very informative thank you
I'm building new front stairs. Stringers are pressure treated.
Can the stringers rest right on earth or is concrete needed to rest on ?

bbygtr
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How about using sill sealer or deck joist sealer under both treated boards in your preferred example? Maybe a single treated board with stringer cut short but then use strips of plastic trim or PVC trim pieces under each short cut stringer?

roberthughes