The WORST Mopar Engine Ever? Chrysler/Dodge 2.7L V6

Taking a look at one of the worst Mopar engines ever made by Chrysler, the 2.7L V6, found in many Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. This video goes over the reasons why this engine was not as successful as Chrysler had hoped for.

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[milfordcivic]

Knock knock? Who's there? It's an Intrepid!

[markhull]

With over 50 years automotive experience and 35 years as a professional aviation technician, I add my 2 cents FWIW.
What helped kill this engine (and many others, not just Mopars) was the manufacturers recommending extended oil change intervals of 7, 500 miles on just conventional oil. I own a 2006 Stratus with the 2.7. They dropped that to 6, 000 on this model after all the sludge problems (which was too little-too late). The pre 2006 models also suffered from inadequate PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) which was improved in '06. This also contributed to sludge issues. They also had a poor design water outlet for the top hose to the radiator that was leak prone. It would start leaking and if not corrected quickly would cause overheating. ALUMINUM ENGINES must NEVER be overheated! They just can't take it like the old cast iron ones could. Chrysler wasn't immune to these issues. There were class action lawsuits on the 3.0 litre V-6 1MZ-FE Toyota engines on sludge issues. I've had several of those engines and got 250, 000+ miles on all of them. So here's the bottom line: Government mandated pressures on emissions and fuel mileage have forced the manufacturers to implement the use of small displacement, high reving overhead cam engines. To get the power needed out of these, they are using extremely sophisticated technology including turbocharging. 75-100 horsepower per Litre is common now but was unthinkable just 10-15 years ago. These engines absolutely DEMAND being serviced promptly at or before their recommended intervals with the absolute best fluids available. That means full synthetic oil if you're going to exceed 3000 miles on a change. The 2.7 shouldn't exceed 5000 on full synthetic. I don't care what the oil bottle says you can go either. BTW; Walmart Supertech Full Synthetic oil is just as good as the major label ones at half the price too. Coolant is one of the most neglected items. Most see that you can change it every 100, 000 miles but forget to look at the first part that says 5 YEARS or 100, 000 mi whichever comes FIRST! Old coolant won't freeze, but it's lost it's ability to protect from internal corrosion. Aluminum engines love to corrode internally too. A light layer internal corrosion will cause them to run hot. At 12-13 years old now, you can look down inside the oil fill opening and see the rockers and head of my 2.7 engine and it's as clean and bright as new. It's quiet as a mouse and will get you a ticket if you're not carefull on the highway. So, I'm not bragging, but letting everyone know how to maxamize their chances of getting the most from their engines. Just keep in mind if you're buying a used car/truck, it's still only as good as the previous owner(s) cared for it. Which unfortuantly most haven't done well.

[dannystephens]

I had a 2002 Sebring with the 2.7 that I inherited from a wealthy aunt and it was a garage queen that only had 45, 000 on it, This car was like she had just driven it off the showroom floor. At 50, 000 miles the water pump went out and I had it and the the whole timing chain and guide and water pump assembly replaced. This was a big deal as everything is buried inside the engine and you have to drop the engine and subframe to access them! At 54, 000 miles it all came unglued again and split the aluminum timing cover right down the middle and started sitting oil everywhere like it had Covid. Off to the junkyard it went! Car still looked brand new but was a POS. My 2002 RAM wasn't any better as it was a rust bucket and everything was falling apart on it too.. No more chrysler products for me!

[Fifthcell]

My friend kept claiming she beat a Charger in her 2011 V6 Escape, and now I believe her LMAO. It must have been a 2.7 V6 in it... those are horrendous numbers for a Charger

[tonywestvirginia]

I am a retired Chrysler tec. I hated those engines!!!

[detailgeek]

My 2.7l 300 has 412, 000 miles and going strong never had any engine or transmission problems!

[rustybrowneye]

Your pronunciation of Concorde and Intrepid are fucking hilarious

[.taccord]

A Toyota Sienna is actually faster by 2.2 seconds 0-60, so imagine getting gapped by a Mom in a Sienna 🤣🤣🤣

[nathanwood]

Most of the issues that you speak of Were found in the 05’ and earlier 2.7 engines. The 2.7’s in the 06 and later 300 and Charger models were actually pretty good engines as long as they are serviced regularly. The main thing to watch in the newer 2.7’s if the water pump/ timing assembly.

I can vouch first hand, I have a 09 300 with over 220, 000 miles and it still runs like a champ and doesn’t smoke at all. Plus it’s still good on gas

[superduty]

I've never heard anybody pronounce "Concorde" and "Intrepid" like you just did.

[ecymbura]

I'll never be able to understand how or why Chrysler is still going I truly dont think I've ever seen a company produce so many terrible cars before

[marcoosornio]

I have a customer with over 200k on this engine with no major problems, I was appalled

[KidJaeProductions]

2.7L in a Dodge Charger, Magnum, and Chrysler 300? Nah. 4 speed automatic? Hell no.

[GearHeadLyfe]

There are two types of 2.7L owners... Those that have had them explode, and those who will have them explode. It's a shame it could have been a great engine but the oiling system and timing chain system had major problems! I had an 01 Dodge Status SE that I bought used I was the second owner and when I picked it up the car had 24K miles. It was meticulously maintained (all records and receipts, owned by a middle aged man). I swapped over to Mobil 1 Synthetic after learning I bought a time bomb.

By 50K miles the rods were knocking....

[paulstandaert]

Unlike most people, I actually had a bunch of these things apart. There's a lot of misinformation about them.

One issue with them is that there is a LOT of what I call "upstairs oil." Four camshafts, 24 lash adjusters, an oil accumulator with a "pinhole jet" in it, 1 primary chain tensioner, two secondary chain tensioners. No oil restrictor in the head gasket to slow it down a bit and leave some in the oil pan below. If you have ever tried running one of these with the valve covers off.... you know how big the mess is compared to various other engines. Is it a problem? Not really if you maintain a proper oil level. Anyone who has worked in a used car department at a dealership can vouch for the fact that it is far from uncommon to pull a dipstick out of a trade-in car and find nothing on it.

Like many engines, it will consume oil as it ages. Some will survive with just 2 quarts left in the pan. This is an engine that will not.

The sludge is due to the lack of oil maintenance. Engines of all genre will generate sludge. It becomes a problem on this one because all that oil in the heads has trouble draining back down to the bottom of the engine, through the sludge which starves the bottom end with oil, and then you have problems. Again, maintain the oil, and these issues go away. There will probably be someone who chimes in and says they did all that and it went bad anyway, but take what they say with a grain of salt.

Next, the primary timing chain tensioner O-ring in the 2000+ models likes to take a hike and end up in the oil pickup screen. The result is a primary chain tensioner that cannot do its job anymore, and then the tensioner arm slaps around and makes a sound very similar to some clips I heard in the video. At the same time, there is an oil pressure loss, so the oil light will often come on. Oil light on, a slapping noise from the engine? Must be bad bearings, right? So, the engine is deemed junk when a $.75 o-ring will fix it.

Some will say the sludge is because the PCV system is insufficient. Not true.

The water pumps don't leak coolant into the oil, MOST of the time. There are two weep holes if memory serves me right. So, when the water pump seal/bearing goes bad, the coolant will seep through a hole in the block and onto the ground. A similar design with an "internal" water pump is found in a lot of other engines out there.

It moved an LH car around quite well. The bigger rear-drive cars probably sucked.

[Cheezincharlie]

The way you say "Concord" and "Intrepid" hurts my soul, but it's nice when people talk about my first car (Intrepid), nice video.

[ohthatstray]

I have 2005 Chrysler 300 2.7 with 237k miles on original motor. Just replace the timing Chain, water pump and Thermostat every 40k miles. I also change my oil every 3k miles. It has no check engine light on. I just replaced my radiator this time around and it is a very dependable car with great gas mileage. I alway service my engine 2 times a week (checking coolant, and oil). I has never given me a problem. It runs and drives like a champ.

[jinglejazz]

I bought a Chrysler Canada Intrepid in 2005, had the 2.7 engine, I heard of the problems in some so I got the extended warranty with it. The car ran great for 3 years, after the warranty was up I started having problems that I read online, Oil light would flicker at a stop, engine light would constantly come on, car would go into safe mode. I had it for 8 years before the engine blew, at least I was 2 blocks from home, The car was 5 years old when I bought it, just over 200kms. I bought a 1992 crown vic to get me to the airport then buy a new one in the spring. The crown vic was 20 years old, it ran better than my intrepid, had it for 5 years and never had an issue with it. had more km's on it than the intrepid. Its still on the road today. Never buy another chrysler product again.

[JohnSmith-zwtr]

I have a used 2008 Dodge Charger (2.7) that I bought in 2010 and blew the engine very shortly thereafter due to sludge.

After alittle research; I discovered the oil sludge issue is DIRECTLY related to poor quality oil and. Water pumps Dodge used to save money.

So, I had the engine rebuilt and had the best quality after market oil and water pumps (including a new timing chain, timing kit etc) replaced with the engine rebuild.

I drive a lot for work and I’m going on 190k miles with no engine problems whatsoever. I must confess; I change the oil at 3k miles religiously and have used Royal Purple full synthetic from the get go.

It’s not a 3.5, I get it, but it’s still a Charger, comes STANDARD without Stability Control systems, better 0-60 rear gear ratios than the 3.5L, and it still has Hemispherical heads. Add a Cold air intake, performance throttle body, performance Accel coils, performance plugs, and performance flow master exhaust. I get the best MPG of any Charger AND have upped my 0-60 to approximately 7 seconds from 10 seconds. That’s only 2 seconds from a 5.7 and slightly faster than the 3.5.

So, for the 2.7L owners, DO NOT believe the trash talk. It CAN be made into a quick car WITH a dependable engine with a rebuild (with higher quality parts) AND a few performance upgrades.

Don’t get me wrong, if I could choose; would I pick the 2.7L engine? Of course not; the 3.5L is a better engine (it would have been a lot better if it had a timing chain instead of a belt).. And, the 5.7L is the most reliable Dodge factory engine without a doubt!

BUT, I have a 2.7 and it CAN be made VERY RELIABLE AND significantly faster. You have to look at it this way; the engine is going to have to be rebuilt EVENTUALLY. When that time comes; it will be cheaper to rebuild the engine than to buy a new car. (A lot more cheaper Long term). Take your time and do some research on who to use in your area for your rebuild. Spend the extra money if necessary to have the engine rebuilt RIGHT. Add a few performance parts and you got yourself a fast and reliable car for a very long time.

[chrislemaster]

Cadillac North Star 4.6L was runner up