Fast overview of Tundra/ Sequoia 5.7L Starter Replacement (without removing exhaust) NNKH

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Quick instructions/overview on how to replace the starter in this 2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7L without removing the exhaust. `

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[spelunkerd]

As a matter of principle I always remember to smash the like button when the author has the broad shoulders to show a broken plastic connector rather than glossing it over. Knowing how to deal with those kind of misadventures is what makes watching these videos worthwhile.

[technosasquatchfilms]

Newer cars makes me love my old car so much. It's 4 bolts for the flywheel shroud, 2 bolts for the starter and 2 nuts for the electrical connection.

[cameroneddins]

This video seriously helped me. I have never done this type of repair before, it got me from knowing nothing to fully functional truck. Thank you so much!

[KBLsports]

For those of you wondering how to remove the starter from the front, the following might help you out, as it did for me. Simple as this...remove the solenoid from the starter. Two, 10mm nuts hold it on there and are not difficult to break loose. Just rearrange the starter in a position towards the rear so you can easily locate the 2 solenoid nuts. Everything else must be disconnected from the starter so you can easily manipulate it. Like as if you were going to slide it out the direction portrayed in this video, which by the way was extremely helpful. However, even with clamping the coolant hoses, I still could not get it removed. But after removing the solenoid and finagling it around in between the CV axle, I was finally able to get it to drop out. This defintely is not an easy job, especially from the ground, but following this video step by step, using the exact same tools, just about anyone (with patience) can get this accomplished. Again, a great big thanks to NoNonsenseKnowHow for such a quality video. This saved me well over $1, 000!!!

[marinellijr]

Great video, this is probably one of the most challenging repairs I’ve performed. Not due to the task but Toyotas engineering has extremely tight tolerances not a lot of room. I was quoted $1000 for the job.

Great step by step. One thing I did differently was loosened up the motor mount, jacked up the motor and I was able to remove the starter from the wheel well. Also, I went with a factory starter.
Thanks for sharing.

[mfalasa]

On one hand, I'm mad at you for making a video that encouraged me to take the job on. On the other hand, I'm glad I managed to get it done, all thanks to you.

I have a 4x4 and did not have to remove an engine mount bolt or touch the exhaust manifold. I did remove the solenoid to get the starter to slide out, I bet that helped. I did have to loosen the cooler line bracket and disconnect the lines to get access.

Every bolt was a battle. My crowning achievement in life is replacing the upper bolt on the inner heat shield.

If I had to do it again, I would probably cough up the $1100 my mechanic quoted me.

[tilingastilingas]

Well I know it has been 2 years since the video was posted but today was very helpful to me thank you so much.

[woodstock]

Thanks for the GREAT video! I have a 2015 Tundra and did not know if this video would apply to it. Fortunately it did. There were several videos showing how to replace the starter without removing the exhaust but I liked this one the best because the video was superb and the narration was excellent. The video had all the important steps and tips to help complete a rather difficult starter replacement. Thanks for creating this so I could use it as a guide to help replace my starter! Keep up the good work!

[jeffgardner]

Why can’t all videos be like this one. No nonsense, straightforward. Thank you.

[JPWilson-mokj]

Great video Thanks for the quick content it was much help. I've been a mechanic on and off for about 20 years. This was my first 5.7L Tundra starter and was surprised how tight that sucker is in there. Anyhow thought I would add a few notes for others.

Ive read that some said they did not have to remove the coolant lines but there is no way to get the upper starter bolt out on the 08 I worked on as the lines bend right in front of it. Even with the cooler line bracket bolt removed I could not uncover the upper bolt enough to get the socket on it unless I broke the cooler lines free. One part that was missed is when you should remove the wires attached to the starter. You must remove the large cable with the 12mm nut first so the harness has enough play to fold it out of the way so you can move the starter back. Do not try to remove the snap in plug connector until the starter is dropped down some so you can twist it toward you for access. Make sure to have the right tools for this job or it will take for ever. A must as shown in the vid is a 10mm ratcheting wrench, extra long flat head screw driver for plastic starter wire cover and for bending the starter shield so you can remove it, multiple long extensions for access to the starter bolts, an electric 3/8 drive ratchet would be a big help as well as a electric 1/2" impact or breaker bar for the upper starter bolt.

It was difficult to clock the starter just right to move it out between the frame and the lines. I did not loosen the engine mount nut as shown in other vids but tried many different clocking positions for about 15 mins straight before it came out. On the positive the new Denso OEM starter units as well as the aftermarket style in your vid are much smaller in case size so they pop in and move around much easier. I did this job on the lift and it took a few hours, I cant imagine doing this job in the ground.

[GraceAppliance]

Outstanding, thank you! What a great tip on the silicone gasket on the broken tabs. Anytime one so those broke in the past, I died a little inside. Now, I can die a little less.

[genosaur]

Great video! You warned how hard it was and you were right.. i saw other videos before starting and this was the most clear cut well presented video. I did remove the solenoid to reinstall though and was much easier. I wish i would have done better clamping those lines. Swivel sockets and a long extension is a must. Ratchet wrenches were helpful too. Last thing just go ahead and buy the pigtail solenoid connector and just replace it.

[teomejia]

Thanks for the video a great help, could not have done it without the video. A couple of things I did differently: 1. Unbolted the cooler hose bracket to remove upper starter bolt but did not disconnect the hoses. 2. The starter came out and in from the front instead of the back. 3. Like you, I also broke the connector clip, so I bought a 1-way TS187 pigtail with an extra 6" of wire. This helps for an easier install and future replacement. You can connect the pigtail, install the starter and positive wire and add another connector or splice the tail end of the new TS187 wire farther down the harness for easier access. Thanks again!

[garykrouse]

Took me about 7-8 hrs on a 2013 Sequoia. Dog of a job. Would have taken 2x longer without your video. Was a very big help.. Many Many Thanks.

[alekseykudelev]

Thanks a lot!
It was helpfull!

THIS METHOD CAN BE IMPROVED:
It is necessary to remove the solenoid before pulling the starter out!
After this it is NOT necessary to disconnect the coolant hoses!
These hoses will need to be pressed up, and the starter can be pulled out!

[moparacer]

Great video! I removed the catalytic converter and moved it out of the way. It only took about five minutes and made a lot more room to get the starter out as well as get to the cooler line bracket bolt.

[wesleydill]

Thanks for the video. Really helped me change mine out at 238k miles. It was not an easy job. I didn’t remove exhaust or the coolant lines. I did remove the bracket holding the lines so make some room for the top bolt holding starter. I removed the solenoid from the starter to remove down between the frame/drive shaft and the oil pan. Also reinstalled the same way and reinstalled the solenoid once it was close to position. Thanks again for posting the video. This one was the most informative.

[drz]

This video helped me change the starter in a parking lot. 👍

[-jimmyjames]

Hey fellow Tundra Lovers or Haters! No need to open coolant lines. after starter is removed from bell housing you CAN separate the starter solenoid from the starter motor and it will come right out near control arm frame area. Keeps you from potentially overheating due to air in system and isnt difficult to do. this is a GREAT video btw, no fluff and b.s!

[wasatchpowdercamlive]

In addition to good info in the video here are a couple suggestions that may help some people. First...replace only the solenoid. Second...cut the lip off the top of starter heat shield to dramatically simplify reinstallation. On the solenoid: the problem with these starters is often not the starter itself but the solenoid. If it clicks but does not crank...and if you hold the key in start position for a few seconds and then retry...and it starts...it is probably the solenoid. It is possible to purchase and R&R the solenoid without completely removing the starter. In my case (2007 Tundra), I could not get the starter out without removing the half-shaft...which I did not do. I replaced the solenoid with the starter removed but trapped. The starter heat shield slid in easily after I cut the lip off the top half. This does not compromise the heat shield but it slides in much more easily. I did not attempt to install the 3rd (top bolt) on the heat shield...FYI.