RWW 151 Roubo Resaw Frame Saw in Action

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Here is a quick look at my dedicated resaw frame saw in action. It is based on the drawings by Andre Roubo. The blade is 4x48 and toothed at 3ppi. It is a monster in action but takes a delicate touch to keep it running true. Resawing by hand has never been so easy!

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Hey - great saw. Love the ironwork attachments. People, these frame saws work. That is why they have been used for hundreds of years. It is not as fast. cost effective and efficient (for your time) as mechanical saws, which is why they are not widespread - but they work. I used mine running it vertically, sitting on top of the wood, which was laying horizontally, because it was several yards long. It is a great way to resaw. Wandering blade? Nonsense - drunk user, I think. I have cut almost veneer thickness from slabs. I discovered this video because I have been out of woodworking for 8 years and wanted to build a new frame saw - there was no internet 8 years ago, at least not dozens of youtube vids showing frame saws etc.. Anyway, thanks for the vid, and people - give a frame saw a go. Rips really well. I should add that I used a sawblade that was meant for some machine, only 1 inch thick and holes at both ends, very nice and easy to buy/find.

davidstephenson
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Thanks for posting, I've been looking everywhere for a tool just like this!

BlackSeranna
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Thanks for all your hard work and keeping us informed.

tdchamb
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My oh my if that aint a beauty!
Stunning design and a pleasure to watch it go. Another great build sir!

Bjornarp
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MAN!  I have got to make me one of these!!!  Thank you for posting this.  I watched the video you have on your site from Tom Fidgen on how to construct it.

I dont do enough resawing to warrant buying a commercial size band saw but this one will do the job and then some.  Thanks again :)

jimray
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Gorgeous saw - I just built my first frame saw yesterday using one of the Emmerich bow saw blades, and I'm still trying to get the whole 'steering' thing down. :)

starvingpoet
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That's a pretty awesome saw, nice work. I love your expression of concentration at 1:03 !

bluecostas
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There is an iron band around each end piece with a blade slot in it. A U shaped keeper threads through a pair of holes in the blade.

RenaissanceWW
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I started the kerf about 1/8" deep only across the end grain using a 6 ppi rip saw. Too difficult to do it with this saw due to the weight and coarse pitch.

RenaissanceWW
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I built one of these years ago. It's really meant to be used by two people with the timber clamped into a special stand. This is how veneer was cut also.

frogsoda
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What makes you say that I can't use all 48" of the blade now? There is nothing restricting the entire length of the blade other than about 1/2" on either end where the hardware overlaps. I have links to the hardware and the blade on my website.

RenaissanceWW
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what is that awesome music ??? - can anyone enlighten me as to what it is?

gordslater
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Nick, did you try manipulating the set to get it running true? I had to do a fair amount of trial and error to get these big teeth working right. I do find that you really need to pay attention your body alignment with a longer saw too.

RenaissanceWW
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since you can't use the section of the blade nearest you, i suggest you extend the frame by a foot and use a piece of metal to connect the near end of the blade to the near end of the frame. that should let you use all 48 inches of blade without the weight of the frame binding it too much when you get to the end of the cut stroke. i really like that saw and think i may make one. where did you get the blade?

deezynar
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i just realized an easier fix would be to install a second cross bar about a foot away from the existing one. you could make it the same shape as the other 2 so you'd hold it the same way you hold the current one. i'd think about connecting the new one w/ 2 rails, each set about 4 inches in from the sides. i think the ruobo version was probably used by a man at each end thus canceling out the weight shift problem.

deezynar
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No, I didn't really do any fiddling with the saw blade other than a quick sharpening. I'll probably fiddle with the design a bit more when I have an empty bench - I just feel like I'd want a saw blade in the 4-ish tpi range to really take advantage of the power you gain with the two-armed nature of this type of saw.

starvingpoet
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Wait, how is the saw attached the the frame? I couldn't work it out. Looks cool though.

mooncabbagere
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Hey Nick, I had the same idea, to use the emmerich blade. How did it end up working out? do you think the blade is too narrow to track nicely?

wilyoutulis
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Hi Shannon, great saw you have here! I build mine with a bandsaw blade but i am a little sceptic because i never done a good job with it. I thought i had to tighten it, straight; but it don't works, always going skew(right or left), even with a kerf on each side(especially on oak wood)! it's a 3tpi and 1.2 inch height. What do you think of it? Do i need a taller blade? Or more tpi? I notice the blade is blocking in the wood (need more power to saw). Thanks for your answer, i really like your channel!

stephaneguibert
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Well, I tried and tried, but I could never get it to track right. Your mileage may differ. All in all, you're only out $30 or so on the experiment. I wound up getting myself an old 30" 6 TPI handsaw and restoring it to use. That works really well for me.

starvingpoet