Hidden Secrets Of Valve Lash

PLEASE SUBSCRIBE!!
Hope yall enjoyed the video, thank you guys for the recent support!

Thank you for your continued viewership !

Stay tuned for more!

[SalterRacingEngines]

Please understand what go and no go means.
If your objective is to get .010 lash on your valve clearance you absolutely cannot get more accurate than the way I'm teaching you.
If an .011 will NOT FIT, and the .009 FITS EASILY, that only leaves one size left. It has to be a 10 now. Very simple and it eliminates your feeling inaccuracies.

[RouteTrucks]

Soaking up your videos like a sponge. You are appreciated

[Comet-hngm]

I have been doing it just the way you showed for right at 45 years. Good job on showing the correct way to a new Generation.

[nadronnocojr]

This man is like gale banks is to diesel the family , Thank you for sharing this information .. thank you sir

[alleyoop]

I do not remember where I first saw that exact same adjustment method, but back in the early 90's I worked for a top running west coast TA/FC team. One day I piped up & told the owner that he was "leaving some valve lift on the table" with his farm tractor TDC method. So I told him I would show him & did. To this day he uses the method explained here.
Now he has THE top running N/FC in the land!

[MRnicknitro]

I learn this same method from Bill Grumpy Jenkins..and Warren Johnson books. Great video Brian.

[benrossbach]

I knew lash had an effect on duration but I had no clue it could be that much. Thanks

[ky]

Great go/no go advice! No more bent feeler gauges for me!

[NOName-coqh]

Wonderful demonstration and video! I still have those same instructions on an index card from my deceased friend and machinist George Baroni from over thirty years ago. I use that method now to keep my small engine valve train in tune. While I no longer race, performance engines hold a special place in my heart....you have a new subscriber!

[rossk]

Excellent! I have used your "go, no go" approach for over 50 years but was unaware of the points of maximum valve lash as you explained.

[lukesimeon]

Good info ... and the fact that you would admit that you had the wrong cam shows what kind of person you are ... thanks

[TmMiti]

Breath of fresh air. Love your sharing, your experience, and your knowledge. Your top tier in terms of race engine understanding and building. Keep up the great videos.. Cheers, Miti, from down under Australia.

[williamstel]

Aluminum and stainless steel both grow a lot when hot. Being a machinist. Thank you so much for your wisdom and knowledge.

[Bbba]

I have a P&G gapper I have had forever. I had a 1972 Yamaha XS2 when I was 14. Only 2 years old and had never had the valves adjusted. A SOHC twin. Hemi head that revved to 7500 new, but the noise was terrible when I got it. I dragged it home when I was 12. Got a book by Shell Thuet and I learned that method from him and he showed the ramp for the “256” cam that he said unless you were flat track racing use it and lash it here. I have done it that way all my years. Go/ NoGo. I set them that way. And they were quiet and it would rip the skin off your face! I still miss that old bike! I built a bobber from an 84 model with a 256 engine carcass I had because the 447 650s were weak. I put new sleeves in it at 710 ccs, used the BS38 carbs from the 72 engine I built and a Thuet 256 flat tracker cam. I wish I had a picture of the bike . I ported the exhaust and reshaped the intake. A local motorcycle racer was like “ holy smokes “ for 22 ci cylinder it flowed really well. Rear wheel dynoed 76 hp from 44 cubic inches, 1.725 horsepower per ci and 86 ft lbs. It was spooky if you whacked it in third and the front wheel came up. It was another 50s design from Germany, Hosk I think and Bridgestone bought it for Yamahas “ big bikes” in 1970. That thing was tough! I rode with a bunch of Harley guys 2 up even with girls, my wife even rode with me when we first got together. Anyway, lash is vital!

[thangknowa]

Thank you, same way I recently did it on a Kawasaki Twin Engine on my mower, required at 500 Hours. Quality engine oil really makes a difference in this area, too.

[kman]

EOIC (like you showed) is what allowed me to get my V-Twin air-cooled Moto guzzi engine to run like it's supposed to. But, now I learned go no-go with the feeler gauges... Now I want to pull the valve covers and adjust those valves again!

Thanks for an excellent explanation and demonstration of the right way to adjust valves!

[WilliamHardy-sl]

My dad taught me this go no go on the base circle method in 1976 when i was 13 years old on a L16 Datsun i have used it on everything from Chevrolet ford and Chrysler race engines to solid lift family cars has always worked for me and i have taught many techs this method only thing i didn't know was the base gets smaller as it starts to lift will have to investigate this Thanks for the info

[lmasucci]

Exactly the way I was taught 45 years ago. Great explanation with real good details. I'll recommend this video anytime I'm trying to help out others on the internet or FB.

[Rod-ym]

I agree on setting the valves cold. Now this is what I was taught 40yrs ago by a Cummins diesel rep. Take your feeler gauges apart so you have the size needed without extra weight. Now get on base cam circle both valves closed back adjuster screw up and insert feeler gauge. Now turn adjuster with two fingers thumb and index finger till it just touches very little drag on gauge. I have never seen any difference in power by adjusting the method you suggest. Remember better .001 to loose than .001 to tight

[laynecori]

I ASKED MANY, SEVERAL, GUYS WHAT "THEY" MEAN BY = "STARTS TO OPEN " = FINALLY A MAN THAT EXPLAINS IN SIMPLE TERMS
WHAT = " STARTS TO OPEN " MEANS !
THANK YOU, I NOW HAVE A "TEACHER" = I SUBSCRIBED !