Which Type of Water Supply Valve Should You Use: Compression or Push Fit?

If you are wondering which type of water supply valve to use...compression or push-fit (shark bite), watch this video to see the differences between the two.

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Due to factors beyond the control of See Jane Drill, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. See Jane Drill assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in these videos. Use this information at your own risk. See Jane Drill recommends safe practices when working with tools seen or implied in our video and written content. Due to factors beyond the control of See Jane Drill, no information contained on this youtube channel, Facebook page, website and Twitter page shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this content is the sole responsibility of the user and not See Jane Drill.

[yussefedwards]

Push fit works better than compression all the time. Also Shark Bite make a 10$ tool that doesn't require any finger space and is a super thin tool. Love these videos. I've learned a ton from this woman!

[ChadBoivin]

Tips for replacing a compression valve to push fit: When removing the ferrule with the tool, it helps to grease the end of the pipe to help the ferrule side off. After, you can use alcohol to clean off the remaining grease. Also important; if the compression valve was on too tight, the pipe could have been compressed to a smaller diameter. If that is the case, you will not get a good seal with the push fit. Be prepared to have to cut the end of the pipe to get a new fresh section of the pipe - this is not hard to do. Before you pull the ferrule, be sure you have a long enough section of pipe in case you will need to cut the pipe. If your starting with a short pipe; best to leave the ferrule, and just replace with another compression valve.

[Nessal]

It wasn't mentioned in the video but if you use a push-fit, you need to make sure you push it in the correct depth or you will have a leak. The packaging should tell you how much it pushes in...typically 1"-1.15". Mark that on the copper pipe so that you know you have it seated at the correct depth.

[bambamnj]

One other big thing about the push fittings (SharkBite is a popular brand name). These fitting have to be installed properly or they will fail. This means you need to push the fittings on straight and you have to push them fulling onto the pipe. The first thing you need to do is use your hand and push on the pipe. If the pipe moves, then you might have a problem getting a push fitting on correctly. You need to make sure you can push against the pipe and it will stop moving with enough pipe out of the wall, so that you can then push the fitting on smoothly and completely. If you do not push the fitting on completely, there is a good chance it will fail.
Once you've install a few of these push fittings you get the feel of whether it's slide on straight and complete, but if this your first time with this type of fitting you need to make sure it's on straight and on completely.
If you don't have much pipe coming out of the wall and/or if your pipe moves in and out of the wall a lot, you might not want to use a push fitting. Also, don't be clamping down on copper pipe trying to hold it in place. Copper is a soft metal and you could either poke a hole in it or collapse it completely, then you'll have a much bigger plumbing issue. Push fittings are much better for cases where you can completely grab the pipe with one hand while pushing the fitting on with your other hand or places where you know the pipe is not going to move when you push against it.
One last thing, if you get the removal tool make sure you get the correct one for the size pipe you are using, the tool has to match the pipe size so 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, etc. It's OK if you have to remove the fitting and reset it but much like the compression fitting the woman showed in this video, there is a plastic piece inside the push fitting that acts just like the ferrule that she shows. If you mess up that plastic piece in the push fitting, they will no longer work correctly and you'll end up getting leaks. So be firm but gentle when pushing them on or pulling them off. Don't be pushing on and pulling off these types of fitting too many times, again you'll wear down the plastic inside and open then up to more risk of failure.

[HMSRedbeard]

Great video Leah! For my experience: I have had "push fit" valves leak on me. But then, I've had compression valves leak as well. Normally I can tighten the compression fitting enough to stop the leak. The only thing I can do with the "push fit" is ... replace the valve. My personal preference: 1. remove the stem from the sweat type valve. 2. Solder the valve on the copper stub. Your instruction on soldering is an excellent tutorial. 3. Apply 'pipe dope" to packing nut threads and put stem back in the valve. 4. Turn water on, check for leaks, tighten packing nut if needed. 5. Enjoy a piece of apple pie and a cup of coffee in celebration of another job well done! Thank you Leah!

[terryspaulding]

Good video, very well organized for beginners. I feel it is important to mention that compression valves are also available in quarter turn styles. When you go to turn off a push fitting valve you also have to hold the valve body while closing the valve or the whole fitting will rotate and possibly kink the supply line.

[hereholdthiswillya]

Leah, your work never goes out of style, it's timeless. Here I am five years later and it's making my whole life better. Yesterday I installed a toilet for the first time in my life...using your video from 7 years ago...and that went perfectly (though I did add a trick from thrift who suggests making a frogtape outline of the toilet placement to keep the silicone from making a mess)
But when I got done, the supply valve was leaking. Waa. But tonight I acquired the pieces and tools and will tackle this part tomorrow morning. Crazy, I wonder why I didn't think "shop" classes were for me. I love this jazz

[MrTeff]

Another difference between the compression fitting and the push fit is that the push fit can rotate freeway after installation, which is sometimes very helpful.

[MrTeff]

One note about the push fit is that, if you don't push exactly straight into the pipe, it can go half way and then stop, leading you to believe it's fully seated. The cure is to make a mark on the pipe 1" from the end, then be sure the push fit goes all the way to that mark. If it doesn't, pull it off and try again.

[fearfullywoven]

I absolutely love your videos. You're definitely a teacher, and you explain things so well!!!

[joekrasz]

Came for the knowledge, left very relaxed. I could listen to you spin a yarn all day long haha. Thanks for being you!

[MsDunkin]

So helpful!!!! I have (turned off) short water pipes sticking out of a wall in a room being remodeled and this video totally enlightened me and gave me more option ideas for functionality!!! Awesome!!

[andreleblanc]

Completely brilliant video! It’s a knack to teach and convey the way you do without pandering. Thank you for such a well laid-out video.

[chrisgraham]

I've used both compression and push-on (sharkbite) shut off valves many times with great success. Some question whether the push-on connection valves will last the "test of time" beyond 10 or 20 years but that is yet to be determined. The compression valve you've shown has a gate or washer and seat configuration, so the washer is replaceable and the stem packing seal is also replaceable down the road. This valve also requires several turns of the handle to turn it all the way on or all the way off. Unfortunately, they sometimes get stuck because they are rarely activated.
The push-on valve shown is a 1/4 turn ball valve so it requires just a 1/4 turn to activate on or off. The ball valve seat and stem packing are not replaceable so failure does mean valve replacement.
The orange "C" shaped removal tool for the push-on is usually supplied with the new valve. Duct tape it to the back of the toilet or inside a vanity close by so you know where it is 10 years from now when you need it.

[paulnicholls]

Hi. Journeyman plumber here. A good thing to do with the push fit is to establish the depth of the push fit fitting and then mark the pipe accordingly. Then you will know that it's all the way in. I prefer the 1/4 turn fitting, which is a ball valve. The other valve has rubber washer to close the valve. In time, especially on a hot supply to sink etc that washer wears out and will not shut off.

[weighit]

Very informative and you give great explanations on how and why each works. Your an asset to the how to teachers out there. Thanks

[erikaduke]

I LOVE THIS WOMAN! My family thinks I'm super cool now. This isn't the first time you've saved me time and money! It took me longer to find the wrench and flash light than it did to turn that packing nut and stop the leak! Thank you thank you thank you! You are great at this. So much knowledge and also great at making these fixes easy to understand and to complete.

[mikejones]

This is the best instructional video that I found on youtube thank you for taking the time to explain in simple way how to install and remove the shutoff valve.

[majhmr]

I always look to see if you have a video on a home repair before doing any repair project. They are informative, complete, and help me make a list of steps to follow, parts and needed, and tools to have handy. Thank you!

[patriotcustodian]

Great video. You covered everything that I was wondering about and you did it in a very clear manner. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.