MBTEK UNI-15 Indoor Wood Boiler Setup - Discussion and General Walkthrough Part 1 Ep. #2

This is part 1 of a general high level discussion about wood boilers and video walkthrough of my indoor/outdoor wood boiler. (My apologies the audio/video quality is not as good as I wanted… had to compress file size down a bit so the 38+ minute video didn’t take 8 hours to upload). Sorry I did not get any video of the domestic water tank and heat exchanger arrangement. It is behind a wall that must be opened up in our closet.

Here is the link to Part 2...
Wood Boiler Hydronics, my MBTEK UNI-15 & Piping Schemes Layout!!

Chapter Timestamps
00:00 Intro
08:28 Wood Boiler/Controls/Piping
21:44 Primary Pump
24:28 Secondary Circuit/Pumps/Piping/Controls
32:50 Heating Coil (water-air heat exchanger)
34:21 Ecobee 3 Wifi Thermostat
36:39 Outro

[derrlea]

Yet again, this guy's brings on useful info. Clearly a master of his trade. Thanks for posting. This video makes me wanta build a fire box while chugging caprisuns😂 . Keep'em coming.

[PrebleStreetRecords]

I'm so glad you posted this. I'm considering building a similar system next year to offset the four tanks of oil I burn each winter.
The UPS-run Thermosiphon dump is a fantastic idea, we lose power frequently here in Maine, and I was trying to figure out a good way to deal with a boiler without upgrading to a standby generator.

[Systemofadownlvr]

I love your videos! They are funny and provide good info!! You got a new fan there!

[norb]

Nice to see you have some great idea's, but a few things need to be improved and here are some tips. I am here to help, not criticize you in any way.
1. I am hoping that 1/2" pex is not domestic water pex as it as no oxygen barrier?
2. Your auto air vents need to be left open at all times to be functional only under 5 psi static they will weep.
3. The supply water needs to go to the bottom of the heat exchanger in the garage and the return needs a vent at the highest point. Your have that, but I think the supply is not on bottom, if i am wrong correct me.
4. The boiler is only grounded through the metal housing on the blower motor. There is a ground lug on the bottom rear of the boiler you should ground that point as well. The controller is all plastic and has no bonding to the unit at all.
5. Creosote formation starts to become tar at 250F if your burning at 350-400 F it will help.
6. If you start a top down fire the 1st load will take longer to heat but the burn will be cleaner and last longer.
7. You can keep the burn door open on start up and the blower off until 250-275F exh temps for a cleaner start up.
8. When loading shut the blower off some less smoke blows out.

[jcapman]

Awesome video! Hey I have a question I have the same wood boiler the uni 15. How did you hook your flue pipe up to the collar of the wood boiler I can not get the male side into the collar. Thanks in advanced. Keep the content coming!!

[mattfelice]

Great content here for sure! I was curious as to how long of a burn time can you get and how much square footage are you heating? I have about 2k and currently use an old Jensen(US Stove currently) boiler. I struggle to get it to make it through the night on a load of wood. I can get 6 hours if I'm lucky. Any information would be appreciated.

[norb]

Can you please make a video of all your boiler settings on the controller that works best for you.

[mikekeane]

Just got one of these wood boilers ..At the moment just using it for heat. Cannot figure out how to run it on just my thermostat. No holding tant using regular baseboard heat from original oil set up. Any help greatly appreciated