How To Clip A Quickdraws When Sport Climbing | Climbing Daily Ep.1768

If you sport climb outside then you need to learn the correct ways of clipping quick-draws to the bolt...and rope. There are some things to avoid that are potentially dangerous, and some tips to make things easier. Expert Trevor Massiah shows us how...

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How To Clip A Quickdraws When Sport Climbing | Climbing Daily Ep.1768

[barbmoody]

Thank You Trevor, most cogent and understandable explanation I’ve ever heard about “back-clipping”

[mindblown]

This guy is a natural communicator, good job.

[DigitalAndInnovation]

Wow, that demo of why quick-draws wont fail from standard placement really brought it home for me! It seems natural to worry about the rope from un-clipping... But your demo really brought it home how the loads would not allow it to in normal situations

[johannessporer]

4:48 flat earthers be like: this is a conspiracy!

[Mateusfsxrcphun]

Trevor is so eloquent and natural with the camera

[julianbarajas]

THANK YOU!! For so long I have argued the point of whether the direction of the gate matters, because no one has ever proven to me it was possible to open a gate with a fall as long as you are not back clipped. You even find on manufacturers' websites the myth that you must position the gates away from your climbing direction.

[hammerjb]

Good information and explanations, concise, and good visuals. Thanks.

[williamtaylor]

Thank you Trevor for scaring the shit out of me

[remz]

The rope unclipping itself during a fall happened with a friend of mine, so it is possible, might not be likely, but definitely not impossible.

[joncwolf]

Questioning advice at time stamp 4:46. If the rope below the gate gets hung up on a rock, the rope above the gate will come down first. That scenario would allow for the gate to be opened by the rope above the quickdraw. For example; How many times when pulling rope down on a climb, does an upper section of rope come down first? Why does this happen? Because the lower section of rope gets hung up. I've seen rope come through a gate. The weight of a rope x velocity can easily overcome a closed gate and what ever gravity may be on its side. Best practice is to take the gate out of the picture by facing it away from the direction you are climbing. Keep physics on your side.

[sket]

Nice job. I was instructed to clip the gates always away from where the climber travels. Now I know it's not a big difference whether this is done or not.

I usually have both gates facing the same direction in the carabiner unlike in this video. It was the thing here that was throwing me off the most. But in Finland, most crags don't have hanger plates anymore but simple vertical bolts. So there's no advantage of the exposed screw stopping the biner. Because of this, does it matter if the gate is turned downwards or upwards when rope drag is lifting the quickdraw to a more horizontal position?

[John-eqcu]

I noticed that the 'biners in your draws face opposite directions. That's unusual. But it's also arbitrary. So long as you don't back-clip it, it's ok, but why do you do it this way?

[truthdefenders-]

Good vid, one question and this came up on another video I watched. You had you gates opposing each other on your quickdraws, was that on purpose and why? Normally they face the same direction. thnx

[andRetired]

For what it is worth, I just bought some petzl quick draws and in the manual, it says that the gate facing the direction of the climbing is potentially fatal. I agree with you that it seems impossible but I doubt they would warn against it if it were truly impossible….

[arthurstriker]

Nice. Thank you. I just order 12 quickdraws and rope. This helped

[kevingeary]

Good video, these may be basic things but they are not always explained well.

[bilchito]

It's already tested that is easy to break a carabiner at its nose area if the straight gate on the hanger is facing the same direction the climber goes. The spine (The strongest part) always should be facing the other way. That's why is not advisable having the two carabiners facing opposite in the quick draw at least you turn around the straight gate once already clipped or the route and climber go straight up.

[mateoc.]

Is it safest to just have your top gate facing the oppostie direction you climb

[pszym]

If you back-clip and position the carabiner gate opposite to the direction of the climb, the rope cannot accidentally unclip. Overall, this method enhances your safety.

[bullfrogboss]

I think Trevor is a first black rock climber I've ever seen