Drafting and Making a Late Victorian Waistcoat (1895)

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MATERIALS USED:
Wool: Ayazmoon Fabrics, NYC (1/2 yd)
Tailor’s canvas: Steinlauf & Stoller, NYC (1/4 yd)
Buttons: Daytona Trimming, NYC (6 ct)
Ribbon casing: M&J Trimming, NYC (1 yd)
Brown cotton thread: John Lewis
Black silk thread (pad stitching): Sil Thread, NYC
Black silk buttonhole twist: Sil Thread, NYC

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MUSIC CREDITS:
“Unknown Longing” by Asher Fulero, YouTube Audio Library

IMAGE CREDITS:

[crickling]

i do not sew, i can barely mend things, yet i am so invested in the outcome of lady sherlock

[GirishManjunathMusic]

Nice enough, she says, wearing literally the most beautiful waistcoat I have ever seen...

[Wonderoddity]

When you said “he illustrates the drafting system for all body types” I heard “whether you are thin, whether you are larger, whether you are STUPID” and immediately thought YES THIS IS MEANT FOR ME

[michaelaschmid]

It's kind of reassuring seeing you fiddle and flail a bit (sorry, I hope that's not insulting, I think you're wonderful). As a beginner I feel overwhelmed and flail literally every time I approach a pattern, so seeing others going through the same and solve their problem gives me the boost I need to try again.

[garfieldmethodactor]

I know you won't see this, but I won't be able to live with myself if I don't thank you. For my whole life I've adored Victorian fashion, and I've always wanted to try my hand at creating my own garments but never had the confidence. For some reason, watching your videos over the past few months has inspired me to try. My designs are still off and my end products are atrocious, but I'm having so much fun with it and it's such a fun hobby to have. As a fifteen year old male, I'm not exactly the person you'd expect to see doing things like this, but I don't regret it at all.


I've learned so much from your videos, mainly a very necessary reality check. It's not easy to make things like this, and it takes years of work to master. I'm nowhere near a pro, but I'm aiming to be as good as you are one day.


Thank you!!! You're such an inspiration!!! I love your

[tegansutherland]

As someone who's been a tutor for several students going through tailoring classes, I would like to throw in my own few cents with what I know of modern tailoring practices. None of what you did is wrong or bad, but to just give you more info. Although, firstly, OMFG IT LOOKS SO GOOD. I can't wait to put together a cute waistcoat like this and wear it every single day of my life.


So regarding the guts of your tailoring. I was taught that you do not have ANY seam allowances on your hair canvas, as it's too bulky. All along the edges you use an incredibly thin tape to attach. You machine it to the canvas, and catch stitch it to your fashion fabric.It adds a beautiful pop of contrast. Next, I was taught to have the darts of your fashion fabric come out through the dart openings of your canvas, and catch stitch the edges of the canvas to the stitching of your dart. It allows the option of altering that dart much easier. (Although it's never easy to open up that much stitching.) Next comment. Often, a 1/2" twill tape is herringboned down your roll line. This is over the canvas. It strengthens that bend point. Regarding pad stitching, at the outermost 1/" or so of the edge of the lapel, the pad stitching rows get closer together to encourage it to roll under further and not curl at the edge. And final comment. The very upper edge of your front canvas, from shoulder seam to roughly top of bra line or thereabouts, often has a SECOND piece of canvas, cut on the bias, and attached to the canvas layer. This adds strength and reducing warping at a high twisting point.


Are any of these historical? Who knows! Are they the One And Only True Way? Absolutely not. But as someone who has done a fair bit of tailoring and tutoring of tailoring, I thought you might appreciate having some extra techniques and thoughts to flap around your brain as you continue to explore tailoring. I find the more tailoring I do, the more and more I love "firm hand" sewing, and lose all patience with the light fluffies. Give me wool that I can steam and shape into submission any day!


As always, I remain with baited breath waiting for your next video!

[rentregagnant]

7:58 But... but... competent dressmaking is itself a Dark Art, surely?

[Chibihugs]

This waistcoat is so awesome. Every one should have one, if not more. I certainly will need one soon. Also that blouse with the angled lace is gorgeous. It's so cool to see this project coming together. 💙

[rowenawragg]

My first ever tailoring project was a frock coat for my brother who was 6'4" with a 48"chest. I got a book from the library and draughted the pattern, which was also a first for me. I used black wool suiting and black brocade for the pocket flaps etc. Fitting required a lot of standing on a stool as I am only 5' I was very proud of the end result and the fact that when he wore it he got asked for the name of the tailor who made it. I made a waistcoat out of the black brocade, I had more problems getting it to fit than I had with the whole coat. The instructions sort of assumed you knew what you were doing. I love how yours turned out, it looks amazing on you. I do envey you having the Garment District. There is nothing like that where I live in Yorkshire in the UK 🇬🇧 I can't wait to see the full Lady Sherlock in all its glory.
Sorry for the rambling post but I get carried away.
P. S. The Internet had not been invented when I made it. No lovely people like you to watch on YouTube
Regards Rowena 🇬🇧

[margaritastojanov]

Dear, sweet, Bernadette, thank you for coming into my life. Although I am old enough to be your great grandmother and have been sewing most of my life, I find your videos very helpful in one thing that I have been guilty of throughout my sewing "carrier" - rushing trough the projects. Your hand sewing, the joy you have for your projects slowed me down and I am really appreciating it now. Thank you! Your waistcoat project brought back memories from 50 years ago when I went to pattern making school, and since our country was 50 years backwards I was probably learning the pattern making of your Keystone Guide. The drawing looked very familiar to me with the grid for bodice. There were formulas and fixed numbers that are used according to your own measurements to come up with the closest personal pattern. I learned it with the metric system. Coming to the US (50 years ago) I brought my notebooks with me but then I got spoiled with the abundance of patterns available here and the rest is history. Thank you for bringing the patience and the slowing down back to me. Keep on bringing joy and fun to us, your followers.

[spewilicious]

I would have loved to see how you managed the mock up. I really appreciate when you show how you work to figure out things you don't know (i.e. "flailing"). I find it very reassuring when artists and craftsmen show where they've struggled and made mistakes. I thought for a long time that people who were artistically or creatively successful were always that way, and finding out that the people I admire struggle, fail, and try again is infinitely encouraging. It tells me that even if I'm not producing what I want at the level I want, if I keep trying, I will. So please please feel free to include difficult fittings, progress you are uncertain of, and decisions that go wrong. Those parts are just as helpful as the parts that are tidy and successful.

[picassomanu]

Gosh darn it, you and Watson are going to rock CoCo! Let me think… Ah, yes!
"The case of the two seamstresses."

[cprogrck]

Omg I love that quote. "There is no such thing as truth in this murky and uncertain business of history." <3

[esotericanomoly]

The fact that you managed to sneak in the red ribbon in this project made me smile

[Trekkifulshay]

I always love the juxtaposition of the historical dress with the high rise buildings in the background. <3

[aerolb]

Great work and that fabric is perfect! The padding and the boning really give it the ideal silhouette. I agree that a small pocket or two, either inside or outside would be an excellent idea.

[genderwizard]

This may seem silly but I love rewatching Lady Sherlock bc the logic-centric guesswork that Bernadette has to do lets her training & experience rlly shine through plus I also just love reimagining a classic character

[ichigomomomyia]

I am a simple woman i see Bernadette post and i drop everything to watch i love the lady Sherlock series ❤️
They inspire me to one day sew a Victorian outfit myself

[rebeccaude]

BERNADETTE BANNER....🤦🏼‍♀️....you THINK it “came out nice enough to wear regularly in everyday dress”...???? IT IS SPECTACULAR!!! You worked out the tailoring, the adjustments needed for your specific spinal anatomy, the padding is perfection & the stays give it a beautiful structure! If I had accomplished something that wonderful for my 1st foray into tailoring, I would 1) wear it a minimum of four times a week & 2) stop everyone who commented on it that I HAD HAND MADE IT, using historical patterns nonetheless!! Plus I would make at least 4 more in different fabrics, lol! You should not be selling yourself short in anyway; regarding ANY piece of this outfit! I have worn period authentic Civil War reproduction undergarments/corsets/day dresses & ball gowns for YEARS...& to be perfectly honest, I am so glad I am not part of it anymore. Because, unlike Costume College where you are encouraged to learn & can ask questions about specific aspects of a garment; attending a Civil War Ball is walking in front of a firing squad. I have literally seen (& heard) the dressing down of a young lady who had made her first period correct ball gown. She was told to leave because she had added a zipper (which was absolutely not visible unless you were inspecting the gown) under the modesty panel of her skirt for extra security. I wish I knew if she was still involved with reenactments as I would love for her to know about Foundations Revealed as well as costume college! Please know that when you are showing the small (or medium size) mistakes you rarely make: they are a comfort to those of us who may be at a crossroads wondering how many layers of fabric my tiny bird snips could actually cut through when nothing is going right!!! (What...I know I’m not the only one who wonders if I can stab holes into a bodice that just WILL NOT MEET UP PER THE PATTERN 🤬 with my little birds...I know there are others out there)! You are such a breath of fresh air & it makes such a difference when I’m frustrated with my project & need to calm myself down. Kathy is also quickly becoming a favorite of mine as well, it is easy to see that you were absolutely either sisters or best friends in a past life. Such a rare & wonderful gift that is! Never change my dear, except to stop doubting your finished products! Doubting is strictly for pattern making & mock ups only. I CANNOT WAIT to see the finished Holmes & of course, Watson! Take good care of yourself, thank you for sharing with us & reminding us that if we set our minds to an idea...we CAN successfully accomplish it. Sending hugs & much love 🤗💜🥰!

[pheart]

It wasnt unheard of to add a halfmoon pocket on the outside of the garment, under the bust for a watch. Ive seen photos with them.